Grab Bars On The Overhead

[P69]

It's been while since I posted progress, because I have been catching up with completing projects from  extensive delays caused by COVID and Hurricane Sally a few years ago.  I've been working feverishly over the last year to complete my long list (new cabinets, anchor platform, windlass install, hull insulation, re-gel coat all the exterior smooth, new non-skid, ceiling strips, engine box creation and insulation, fire suppression, replumb, rewire, rub rail,  etc....  Here are the details regarding the interior grab bars I installed throughout the boat.

I installed stainless steel grab bars in the overhead throughout the boat in such a way that made the attachment point strong and leak-proof. I searched for months for stainless steel garb bars that could be mounted without through bolts and with mounting plates that are removable, for when I wanted to fasten to a bulkhead where I through bolt. Most of the bars I found had welded-on studs and I needed mounting plates that are removable. Also, most were labeled at 304 SS and I wanted 316 SS.  During those months searching, I also created a way to securely fasten these to the overhead with no through bolts because there would be no corresponding bar or rail on the exterior and I did not want toe-jamming nuts or bolt heads on the outside.  I also wanted to not have any way for water ingress.

I finally found some 316 SS, 12" grab bars that have removable feet. The feet have two M8 (5/16") holes for mounting . If I remove the single, countersunk M8 machine screw that fastens the feet to the grab bar, I can mount them using an M8 machine screw from the other side of the bulkhead. These are 316 SS. The only drawback is that I could find them only in 9" or 12" lengths.  For some areas 24" grab bars would have been nice.  Like most stainless hardware, these are made in China and there is a number of resellers on Amazon that sell these. Pebbly Beach Store is one of about 3 sources I used. 

https://www.amazon.com/Pebbly-Beach-Handrail-Stainless-Handles/dp/B08LK7NCQS?ref_=ast_sto_dp


I usually keep my eye out for price drops and sales, then snatched up a few.  With some of the resellers, I was able to get several dollars off each with a 10 or more purchase.

Design
I mounted the grab bars directly into tapped holes in the overhead. No through bolts to leak, no fastener hardware on the outside catch toes, and no need to line up with exterior grab bars. This last point was important because I spaced the interior grab bars so they are all within one arm's reach.  I can go from the companion way to the forepeak and always have a secure hand hold, whether it is one of these grab bars or one of the two 1 1/4" schedule 40 stainless steel pipes(vertical at nav desk and galley). I also wanted stainless steel for all hand holds because I did not want to inadvertently grab some wood trim or a fiddle that is not as secure as a grab bar.

For mounting the grab bars to the overhead without through bolting, but still having a very secure fastening, I drilled out a 2" diameter circle  through the coach roof, but not penetrating the lower layer of fiberglass (i.e. drilled only through the outer layer and the balsa core).

I marked the locations of were I wanted the grab bars on the overhead, then found the center of the grab bar's mounting plate one each end.  Once all 21 bars marked on the overhead, I drilled a 1/8" hole up through the overhead to the outside.  On deck, I used a 2 1/8" hole saw and, centered on that hole, I drilled out the core, being careful to not drill through the lower layer of fiberglass into the interior liner. I needed to keep that lower layer in place because the grab bar's mounting plates are only about 1" wide x 1.5" long. 

Fiberglass Work
I removed the core to a diameter of about 3", then ground the outer layer of fiberglass to a 12:1 slope.  I used a router with a slot cutter bit.  The balsa core in the coach roof is 3/4" thick and each hole took two passed with the router (first lower pass, then upper pass).


Next, I put tape over the 1/8" hole in the overhead (that interior hole I drilled to mark the exterior) and began laying in circles of 1708 and epoxy until the mass was slightly convex over the exterior.  Each hole took between 15 and 25 layers of material, depending on if I used 1708 or 1700.  To cut the circles, I sandwiched about strips of material between sacrificial strips of 1/2" plywood, then cut out the circles on the bandsaw.  The circle diameters ranged from 3", 2", then up to 5" as I tapered wider near the top of the stack where I ground the 12:1 taper.  There were about 20 or 25 holes in the coach roof that I filled for the grab bars and that was a lot of circles.  Cutting with scissors would have taken a very long time.

Install Grab Bars
After a few days of curing, I ground off the exterior of each patch to be flush with the surrounding  exterior, then faired out with epoxy putty. There were some air bubbles and uneven area.  I let the epoxy cure for about another 2 weeks, then went below to mark each grab bar for drilling and tapping into these epoxy cores.  Each 1/4" flathead machine screw penetrated about 1" up into the epoxy plug.  I used flathead machine screws with sockets for an Allen wrench. These are so much better than Phillips and rarely pop out.

Because the grab bar mounting plates can and do rotate lightly, each grab bar has a unique match to its holes, so they are not interchangeable.  If I had to replace one, I would have to leave the mounting plate a hair loose so it can rotate while I tighten the machine screws into the overhead.  This is not an issue because when the screws tighten, the plates bind slightly between the curved overhead and the actual bar, so they are not lose.

Now, I have strategically-mounted grab bars throughout.  If it's shinny stainless, it's a secure hand hold. No confusion, especially at night or in circumstances that are not ideal.

http://bodylens.com/Gallery/thumbnails.php?album=62

With that out of the way, it's on to the next project.