Pearson 365 and 367

I seek a skene (curved out ears) bow chock to match existiing on my '77,  P365 as follows;

aluminum (stainless or brass will also work but will need 2),
8" overall length
6 1/4 hole centers (not critical)
1 3/4" wide
1/2 " thick
2 1/2" high
1 1/2" opening for line

any thoughts or suggestions forprobable  sources very much appreciated.

Thanks

gulfreachers2@aol.com,    S/V Deborah

 

I am looking for a skene (curved ears) bow chock that was original equipment on my '77 365. It  is Aluminum, 8" overall length, 1 3/4" wide, 1/2" thk., 6 1/4' hole centers, 2/1/2" high and has  a 1 1/2' opening for line. It is to match the existing chock.

Can you help?

gulfreachers2@aol.com

Hi guys and gals;

Where can I get a bow chock (6' hole centers heavy aluminum casting) for a 1977 Pearson 365?  Any help or thoughts  much appreciated.

Thanks

John Hodes, SV Deborah
239 549 1214

I seek your thoghts and/or experience in  replacing the P365 bowsprit so that aanchors can be broken loose from it My current thinking is to cut it off  and addi two 18"  SS bow rollers (West  Marine Cat. Pg. 231).  Will the deck above the anchor locker support the leverage even with backing plates?
I await your input. Thanks.

Quote from: "brian chalk"Does anyone have experience replacing the raw water pump on the Westerbekeke 40? I've noticed that mine is weeping water after I shut the engine down. I believe the pump is made by Sherwood. Do you replace or rebuild these things? How difficult is it to remove. Anyone thoughts?

Brian: I just replaced my Sherwood water pump on my Westerbeke kPerkins 4-108. Per P365 diagrams, the "leaking water" drops is most likely raw water passing by the seals in the pump. This weep hole was drilled intentionally to warn of bad seals and impending wwater back into the motor.. ILt can be a do it your self project but you may need an arbor press to remove and add bearings and seals. (makes no sense to pull the ;pump without doing this) Also check the shaft ,and replace the impellar. Iput a thick silicon greas on the rubber impellar so that it dosen't run dry on initial start up. Bolt should be retightened while the engine is running but can be dangerous if you are near v belts. Also can turn engine over a couple of times and then tighten bolts to align the shaft.
Hope this helps John Hodes P365 Deborah, Cape Coral Fl.  mailto:gulfreachers2@aol.com">gulfreachers2@aol.com