Rework of the Pearson 365 Bow Anchor Roller..Help?

[SV THIRD DAY]

One of the items that is a must upgrade before we leave in 84 weekends on our trip is to upgrade the wimpy anchor roller on THIRD DAY.  Like most 365/367s the teak anchor roller is a anchor holder only and not intended to bear any load.  So we have to do something to it.  My choices are:

1) cut the current teak off from where it extends from the docking cleats on the "block" mounted to the deck and replace it with new ss off the shelf rollers from West Marine.

2)  put some SS bracing under it so that is fan take some load

Option 1 is what I am leaning towards...so has anyone else addressed this issue?




Thanks

[aschoenberg]

The PO installed a solid teak platform with a Windline URM1 that seems to bear reasonable load.  The teak platform is about 2 inches thick and ends at about 1 inch beyond the bow. I don't know how to upload an image yet so if you want I can send it to you direct.

[Anonymous]

I made one out of Ipe. 3 times stronger  than teak. Looks similar. Very hard to work with however,  everything must be predrilled.  I copied the original bow sprit, with the strips of "Ipe" on edge with spacers. I used 1/4" stainless rod to bolt everything together.  I have a  horizon 900 windlass with a 35# anchor with 5/16 chain. Has not broken yet.   If I did it again, I would have made the whole thing about a foot shorter than it is now.

good luck

gordon

[Abbotsford2]

I had this same decision in April 05.  Saw several P365s with stainless bracing and also looked at cutting off the wood at the rail.  Ended up removing all of the wood (and repairing rotten deck core underneath).  We installed two URM-1s at the Hartge yard in Galesville, MD.  We have a 35# CQR on chain and a 22# Danforth on rope-chain and a Simpson Lawrence 2 speed hand windlas.  This has worked great for the last 2 seasons, including 2 months to Cape Cod and back from the Chesapeake last summer, anchoring almost every night.

[aschoenberg]

I am preparing for a cruise from Nova Scotia to Bahamas - I also have a #35 CQR but feel it is too small for the P365 so am moving up to a 45# and a #23 Fortress.  My problem is that the houser (sp?) pipe is on the wrong side of my windlass (lewmar 900) which direct feeds the CQR so I am thinking of building a dual box in the anchor locker and feeding the fortress chain and rode thru the houser and dingy paying out and taking in the fortress by hand and the secondary anchor - I have one URM-1 and will be installing a second, But my concern is that the fortress will not sit properly on the bow with the 45# CQR.  I don't like the set up I am contemplating but I really hesitate cutting another houser pipe into the deck.  How do you handle the two anchors - chain and rode above and below deck?

[Abbotsford2]

I have 2 URM-1s and the chain locker/forpeak has a divider in the middle, chain on one side from the Simpson Lawrence hause pipe and rope on the other from a second hause pipe (which has a cover)....the 2 anchors 35 CQR and 22 Danforth fit ok on bow.

[merman365]

Can anyone please send pictures of bow refits, I am looking for ideas and need some advise. Thanks Merman365

[Leo]

I just removed all of the teak and bought some rollers from Garhaur Marine. Made a new teak spacer between the rollers and a platform made of teak for the windlass. I bought a Lewmar 1000  and had to cut a new hole to drop the chain. I mounted the rollers as close to the bow as I could so they are well supported. I don't have any photos as I plan to paint this summer so it's on the shelf until then. Just dry fitted it all and seems to work. And I guess I lucked out and had no rot in the bow area.
The bow roller was a AR-35 2 ½  ID and 30 inches long and cost about $130.T he AR-30 ($113) would have worked at 24 inches.


Leo aka Lennie and Carol

1981 36 Cutter  Sol

[SV THIRD DAY]

Leo......are you able to drill/attack into the far forward bow area?  I am thinking about doing the same thing as you suggest, but am worried about how to secure them to the extream bow tip?

Thanks

[Leo]

I managed to get 4 3/8's bolts for each roller. I used two that were pre drilled in the roller and drilled two more closer to the bow.
I don't think you need to bolt supper close to the front as the rollers are supported from below and all the force will be pulling the front of the roller down and as you raise anchor.  

Leo

[SV THIRD DAY]

Thanks Leo.....I would Love to see the photos when you can get them!

[Randy]

I replaced the outer slats with ipe. left the rest intact. I have used for 2 seasons with no problems.

[SV THIRD DAY]

IPE?

[Randy]

Yes, Ipe. Also known as ironwood. It's a brazilian hardwood. It is difficult to work with but very strong and rot resistant. Looks and acts like teak, but harder @ only 25% of the cost. I replaced all my toe rails with it 2 years ago and it is holding up well.

[merman365]

Where can I find this rain forest treat? Im a chef...talk to me about stuff to cook and I know. Talk to me about wood...I know it grows on tree's. You said it was from South America ,is like iron wood? Can you buy it at your local lumber yard? Someone I know did their bow in that "fake Teak" made from recycled plastics...I tell you it does not look bad, pretty strong as well. Mine is the stock system .Last summer someone hit it while we were away and took a chunk out of the teak, bent the roller over,knocked both my 35lb CQR and 44lb Bruce off the pulpit. A friend told us a big power boat with a drunk skipper showed up at another cove looking for repair's  later that day but really did not know what happened to his boat .
 He said something to the effect "I found my boat this way,I was taken by space craft, etc." I hope the Bastard get's probed by someone! That said, it's time for a refit! Oh yes, what is the best chain /rode combo? Cheers.