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boom height

Started by RockysMate, July 07, 2011, 07:54:44 AM

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RockysMate

We are having sails made and the sailmaker suggested raising the booms from a former racing level to a better cruising level.  Any suggestions on boom height for main and mizzen???
S/V Rocky
1977 Pearson 365 ketch
hull # 119
Oriental NC

Dale Tanski

The main is totally out of the cockpit area.  I am not sure what one would gain except for a lot of work by raising it, unless someone had a mainsail made where the aft end of the boom was allowed to drop when trimmed hard on for additional area.  If your boom is horizontal while trimmed upwind you should be fine.

The mizzen is another story.  It is however on an adjustable track for that reason.  My mizzen has been raised 4" for a bit more clearance.  If you have or were thinking of a dodger, raising the mizzen would also be helpful. 

Other than that, 400 or so P365's can't be wrong.

Dale
"Maruska"
Pearson 365 Cutter Ketch
1976 Hull #40
Buffalo, N.Y.

RockysMate

Dale,
I'n not sure I know what you mean by the main boom is totally out of the cockpit area.  Our main boom extends into the cockpit, to within about 6 inches of the mizzen mast.

Linda
S/V Rocky
1977 Pearson 365 ketch
hull # 119
Oriental NC

Dale Tanski

Linda,

Your boom only encroaches in the "cockpit area" when on the topping lift at dead centerline of the boat.  When sailing, it is off center and out of your "living space".  It does not interfere with your egress into or out of your companionway. It is not like you are standing under it and have to duct during a tack.  Then there might be an advantage to raising it a bit for additional head clearance if necessary. 

Dale

"Maruska"
Pearson 365 Cutter Ketch
1976 Hull #40
Buffalo, N.Y.

RockysMate

Dale,

Do you have any idea how difficult it is to outfit a boat when you are 200+ miles away from her???
I don't trust my memory on anything!!  Thanks for your input.

Linda
S/V Rocky
1977 Pearson 365 ketch
hull # 119
Oriental NC

Henri Hali

I'd like to reinforce what Dale said about raising the mizzen boom.
Several years ago when I replaced Windrider's old bimini I spent a lot of time pondering how to make it workable and not have to bend at the knees (I'm 6'1 ) while sailing. One part of the solution was to shorten the mizzen sail and raise the mizzen boom about six inches.
It was worth the time and expense, but see no justification for messing with the main.

Henri
Henri Hali
S/V Windrider
1980 Pearson 365 Hull # 316

Dale Tanski

Linda,

Remember if there is anything you or anyone needs measured, or a picture taken, my boat is still in my backyard. The only limitation right now is that the rig is not up.  Hopefully in a week it will be floating but only 35 miles away from home and 8 miles away from work.

Dale
"Maruska"
Pearson 365 Cutter Ketch
1976 Hull #40
Buffalo, N.Y.

PeteW

Not related to boom height, but since Dale was kind enough to offer his boat as a template; do you or does anyone else know the center to center vertical distance between of the curtain tracks. I have my box cushions done and am now working on new curtains that actually match. I bought the track plastic slides from Sailrite P/N 310021.

Thanks,  Pete W.

Dale Tanski

I just reread Linda's 200 mile post.  My one way was 376 miles to work on the boat.  On the 31st trip down we sailed her home. I still have the two thick note books with sketches, notes and dimensions. My suggestion is write everything down and take lots of pictures no matter how small the detail seems at the time.  It will be those little things that will bite you in the butt and those are the items that you recognize are going to be an issue.  When you get home and start looking for a new replacement whatever is when the "I never even thought of that" questions start to surface.  That is where the pictures might be very helpfull.  When you take pictures, stick a ruler in the shot or a dollar bill, something that might help you scale the photo for a clue on a unknown dimension oh so many miles away.  Pictures today are free to take. 

The next problem begins when you find that today's catalogs are very pretty but contain very little information especially dimensions.  Typically the people at the sales counter and at the other end of the phone line know even less.  You will find you know more about any particular part then the person selling it ever will.

Most often the manufactures web site may contain far more information and dimensions, but that one critical "will it fit" dimension may not be there.  Many times I will purchase a part, wait for that part to arrive, measure it and proceed to buy the part the needs to mate up with that one to build the assembly that you need.  It all takes time.

As for Pete...

V-berth - 30" long upper track only
Head - 30" long upper track only
Port forward - 30" long upper track only
Port mid - 41" long, 12" inside spacing face of track to face of track (face meaning the groove where the slides ride)
Port aft - 30" long, 12" inside spacing face of track to face of track
Starboard - 102"" long, 12" inside spacing face of track to face of track

Question, when you say "I have my box cushions done", does that mean you had someone do them for you or did you make them? If you did them please elaborate.  Perhaps a new thread with pictures and tips and insight.  This item is getting very close on my list.  I am a) cheap b) broke, and c) have done sewing in the past, so I am looking to do this myself. Any suggestions?

Dale
"Maruska"
Pearson 365 Cutter Ketch
1976 Hull #40
Buffalo, N.Y.

PeteW

Dale,

Thanks for the curtain dimensions. My notes on them were not complete.

I have sewn up 7 of the 8 cushions to replace the old naugahyde ones that held moisture and mildew. I have a technique for restoring smelly old foam to fresh and new. I'm cheap and broke too and foam is big bucks. You will need this foam to to pattern your new top and bottom panels.

I have one more to sew up, the insert for the V-berth. I will document the important steps in making these cushions. They are all zippered box cushions with  welting along the top and bottom edges. There are a few things that can go way wrong and I figured those all out the hard way, so I learned to become proficient with a thread ripper.

My sewing machine is a 46 year old Singer Model 15-91. I paid $100 for it on E-bay. Its straight stitch only, all you will need for cushions. Gear driven (pot-motor) it will sew though 6-8 layers without slowing down. It's a real beauty, build at a time when made in the USA really meant something.

I'll start a new thread for this a day or so.

Pete W.