Head Smell

[Dale Tanski]

I replaced every inch of head hose with the best stuff money could buy.  I removed, scrubbed and cleaned the holding tank.  I replaced all of the hose fittings. I replaced the head. I have used every chemical, additive and potion known to man kind.  All of that replacement stuff was 4 or 5 years ago and still el-stinko. 

Now I know what you are thinking, the family that owns Maruska just stinks. Well... it is a God given gift, but not any more than anyone else. We leave the over head hatch open all summer long, as well as the opening port in the head. Still, if the temperature is above 32 degrees the boat stinks.  Even with all the hatches open all day long in a stiff breeze, the boat just plain stinks.  If you open one of the compartment hatches under the V-berth cushions WOW!  I know I am not alone.  I have been aboard plenty of boats, doesn't matter the builder or pedigree, most boats smell if the holding tank was used just once. 

Finally after years and years, I believe that I have solved the problem.  Now it won't work for everyone but if you have access to shore power it will work for you.  I installed a small 120 vac squirrel cage blower in the compartment where the holding tank lives.  I plumbed an 1 1/2" PVC line from there all the way back to the through hull discharge fitting on the transom for the hand bilge pump.  I tee'd into that discharge point and the little blower ventilates the V-berth area compartments as well as the hanging locker and storage compartment next to the head sink. 

With in 4 hours after finishing the project, the boat was oder free.  It has been a week now, the temperature has approached 90 degrees and still no hint of head stench.  The blower is almost completely silent yet pushes a noticeable stream of air out the transom.

I can tell you there is a significant difference in the boat.  The V-berth is smell free.  I will shoot some pictures of the installation and post them for your overview.  If you have this problem, and I know you do, think this project over.  Was it easy... no, but nothing on a boat is.  It will take persistence and reaching spots on the boat that you can hardly even see.  The blower was purchased at Graingers for $70.  Figure another $30 for PVC pipe and your done.  I must say that this could be the best $100 I have spent to date.

The sweet smell of success...

Dale

[graemek]

totally agree with you,i also replaced all the hoses with no change in the smell level,almost gave up and did not use the heads went back to the old bucket and chuck it system,then i was told about ODOURLOS my god it works,does wot it says on the bottle has to be a first on this planet,"BUT" it has a shelf life has to be this years batch or does not work so well,now just pump out the holding tank when leaving the yacht, pump in ten pumps of water with odoulors yacht now has no smell at all,before you did not want to sleep in the front cabin as it made you feel ill

[RayNWanda]

I replaced all the hoses with Odorsafe I got from from Defender for 8.99/ft. I used Rectorseal pipe dope on all the joints and double clamped. No odor. When you flush it with seawater for the first time in a week or so, there is the odor from the old seawater, but that's it. Once the supply line is purged with a fresh supply of seawater, there is no more odor. I bought 35 ft of hose and had about 2 ft left. I used 3/8" Odorsafe for the vent, again with Rectorseal on the joints.

[Dale Tanski]

We even tried a couple bio-bug products but I think the bugs just died.  I haven't heard of ODOURLOS.  I will do some research.  I know straight up bleach doesn't even work.

I installed Odorsafe as well.  I did not install Odorsafe on the vent line however, something to look into.

Some of our problem may be that we flush with fresh water.  I think salt water would be better, kind of pickle it.  But then again maybe not.  All I know is every boater knows what boat head smells like, and it isn't good. I think it smells worse than diesel fuel.

Dale

[ishmael]

I replaced our entire system 3 years ago using top of the line hoses, etc.  I also replaced the head itself.  That seemed to solve the stinky problem.  We have no holding tank which sure helps.  We are exclusive users of the LectraSan and are sold on it for keeping odors down.  The only drawback is that it is not legal in the Keys so we have to go with either a bladder or compost type 'poo powder' system when we are down there.   Since we are not down there that often it is not a problem.  I think at being full time live aboard also helps since nothing sits long and the system is flushed and cleaned often.

Ron
Matchmaker
St Marks, FL

[BlameItOnBuffett]

One thing I found was that what I thought was head stink wasn;t. It was the old saltwater in the bilge, that would barely leak in as a Ichanged from the plug to the knotlog. I ahve found that if I don;t rinse the bilge out after a sail where I have done the changeout, it all smells like sewer. I fI do rinse - no odor. Food for thoguht.

JT

[SV Island Jade]

My pumpout guys sell some stuff called Tank Tamer to customers who will pay big $ but when I ask him what he used, he said he uses white vinegar with a little cooking oil mixed in!  He says it works better than anything else.  We will see.  He also suggested that I flush with fresh water only.  His contention was that the living sea creatures in the salt water would die, rot and add to the stink.  It makes as much sense as anything else I have heard.   The vent fan seems like a stroke of genius!
bnowlin48

[S/V Deo Volente]

I also changed to the non permeable hose, but to save money I spliced in PVC for the longer run, which is odor free. The best thing I have done is add a charcoal filter on the vent hose. Several folks in my marina have made their own filter and it really helped clear up odors.

[Annie]

Funny this topic came up just as I was removing my holding tank.  Sleeping in the v-berth was not possible unless you drank enough rum to pass out as soon as you hit the pillow. The tank looked like it was worn out so I ordered a new one from Trionic Corp S-H2014-1 with 3/8" walls (rather than the standard 1/4") and an optional 3" diam. cleanout on top. This tank will be the same size as the one I removed:  14" x 20" x 11.75" (14 gal.).  Someone here said to buy the best fittings, but I don't know what "best" means.  Anyone know?  I plan to replace all the hoses with OdorSafe Plus and install a vent filter.  Thanks for the advise about the Rectorseal and double clamps.  I also heard that you should only flush fresh water. I use my shower head and will keep doing so, although that apparently was not the problem.  I'll let you know how all this works out. 

[Jim S]

I have found a de-odorizing product that may help with lingering head odors.  After we replaced all holding tank hoses and thoroughly sanitized and cleaned the holding tank, residual odors persisted.  Not really rank, but unpleasant and permeated the interior surfaces and clothing in the hanging locker in the v-berth.  A product named "Air Sponge" came recommended by a hardware store owner in San Antonio, Texas.  We purchased a 1/2 lb. container (about $6) and are amazed by the effect.  There is a slight soapy odor but no residual head odor.  The product appears to be available at Ace Hardware stores.  You use by popping the lid off and placing in the odorous area.  It lasts about 3 months.  I am considering punching a couple of 1/2 in holes in the lid and placing back on the container for a longer lasting effect.

Maybe this will help you sleep without the rum hangover.

[PeteW]

My boat had no holding tank when I got it, so I had a clean slate to work with. Once the the new bronze thru-hull was in (see post on "below the waterline restoration") I was able to move ahead with a new holding tank installation. My main objective was to keep all the head plumbing in the head. This would help with containment in the event of some sort of industrial accident. So everthing would need to fit in the head vanity.

I bought a wedge shaped tank model B199 from Ronco. It measures 23 1/2" long by 17 5/8" high and it 9 7/8" wide at the top. Its 1" wide along the bottom edge which helps in emptying the tank . The outlet is 1/1/2" and is on the bottom right. The inlet and vent are on the top. Best part is it could be installed through the door below the sink on the head vanity.



The outlet plumbing has a tee and an in-line valve to facilitate repairing or replacing the macerator. The macerator output goes up to the new siphon break and then to the thru-hull valve. The elbow goes up to the deck fitting. There is no Y valve as the head pumps directly into the tank. Having a well maintained joker valve and a non-clogged vent is critical for keeping odors and effluent in the tank on the inlet side. I used the low odor hose from Trident. I tested the entire system for leaks using fresh water first. I highly reccomend this step.  So far so good.

That other valve handle is for the sink drain which is currently a gravity drain.

Pete W.  Pearson 365 Hull #6

[Jim S]

Pete, why the valve in the sink drain?  Does the sink drain directly overboard and it is necessary to keep splash down? My sink drains to the shower sump.  I like your setup that removes most of the hoses from the v-berth area.

[PeteW]

 Dale,

I'm still working on the the shower bilge tank design, which will lay flat near the mast step. The shower bilge thru hull valve is currently the gravity feed drain for the sink. This valve is only a few inches above the waterline and is difficult to get at so I put this alternate valve at the base of the sink. Heeled over I'm pretty sure the sink would flood with seawater otherwise. Probably not the best arrangement but its working for now until I sort out the gray water holding tank.  Pete