News:

New Board:  Forum Support (Below Chandlery). Forum Support to submit any questions.

Main Menu

Mast step replacement

Started by Henri Hali, November 03, 2010, 11:52:39 AM

Previous topic - Next topic

Henri Hali

Hey Dale!
.
I've had Windriders mast removed for a bunch of projects I want to do this fall,winter,and spring. Among them is to replace the mast step.

You posted a photo on 1/24/10 (my birthday!) of the mast step you fabricated out of aluminium. The photo shows a great detail of the front of the step, but not the aft side where the stainless rod is attached. (I know it has a proper nautical name, but I can't remember it.)

Do you have any additional photos that show the back section as well?

I have a friend who runs the metal shop at Yale University who has graciously offered to machine it for me. He plans to machine it out of a 2 inch or so chunk of aluminium to make up for the piece of mast to be removed during its circumcision.

By using a solid piece of stock I can't picture how to design it so the rod can be reattached.

I also want to install conduit inside to run my wiring. I'm thinking 1 1/2" Schedule 40 PVC up to the spreaders and making use of the "C" shaped grove inside the mast as the attachment point. I'd like to go higher than the spreaders, but can't figure out how I'd feed the spreader light wiring into the conduit.  Any suggestions on that? Or do you think thats high enough to keep the wiring making from music?

As always I'd appreciate your,  and the group's thoughts and suggestions.



Regards,
Henri





Henri Hali
S/V Windrider
1980 Pearson 365 Hull # 316

Dale Tanski

Henri,
Good to hear from you.  Everything I make I draw, so somewhere I have an autocad drawing.  I am way behind on posting things, like the drawings of the chain plates for example.  Work has been a bear the last 6 months and the weeks just fly by.  I will try and look tomorrow for the drawing and see what I can do.
I probably have lots more pictures however my desktop is down once again and they are on that computer.  A drawing is better if one is going to fabricate one anyway.
Dale
"Maruska"
Pearson 365 Cutter Ketch
1976 Hull #40
Buffalo, N.Y.

RayNWanda

No problem- I would use something lighter for the conduit, though. Measure where the spreader light wiring will need to exit the conduit and punch a hole for it. As you pull in the new wiring, watch for it at the hole and separate the spreader light wiring at that point. Then load the conduit into the mast with the slides on it. You will need to fish out the spreader light wiring through the hole in the mast. Do not bundle the wiring inside the conduit- leave it loose so that you can change one wire later if you need to.
When we rewired, I bundled everything neatly with wire ties and pulled it in. It may bite me one day.
Safari
Palacios, Tx.
Prout Snowgoose 37

Henri Hali

Your suggestion got me thinking in a different direction and expanding on your thought came up with what I think will work well.
I'll measure for the opening, run a fishtape from the hole at the spreader down the mast before I install the conduit. Then push the fishtape in the conduit and pull the wires through that way. It's the opposite of "pushing a rope".
What would you use for the conduit that's lighter than Schedule 40?

Henri
Henri Hali
S/V Windrider
1980 Pearson 365 Hull # 316

RayNWanda

They make a thinwall 1" PVC water pipe- It should be all you really need. It would be quite a bit lighter than 1 1/2 sch 40.

Yes- you can run the fish tape in that way and get the wiring where you need it. Use a 1/2" spade bit to punch the hole in the conduit for the spreader light wires.

I like spreader lights. We were anchored out recently and a gulf shrimp boat showed up at 2:00 AM and turned toward us. Directly at us. Our anchor light was on- I checked it while watching him. He kept coming and at about 75 yards, I turned on the spreader and deck lights. THAT got his attention.
Safari
Palacios, Tx.
Prout Snowgoose 37