rebedding stanctions

[jim]

We are replacing lifelines on Ohana. I want to remove the stanctions and rebed under them. There is a rubber gasket under the base.
I wonder if there should be a gasket there, it seems as though that connection ought to be tight and a gasket would allow some movement which could cause a leak.
What are some thoughts and what type of chaulking do you all recommend under the stanction. A friend of mine used 5200 and I can't see that. If there ever had to be a replacement it sure would be difficult.
Thanks for any input.
Jim

[S/V Deo Volente]

What I like is Boat Life Polysulfide for anything I may want to take apart. I can't remember anything I've bedded with it leaking. I would recommend masking off the area. I heard it described as being almost biblical---like the loaves and fishes. One drop seems to multiply into many.

[set2sea]

I had rubber gaskets under my stantions the first time I rebed as well. Like you said, couldn't see the sense in them so I did away with them as well. I did always wonder the theory behind them though?

[Jim Cozy]

My guess is that the gaskets are a time-saver for the builder. When I rebed I use polysulfide also. It would be easy enough to make new gaskets but I like the cleaner look of the bedding. As for application, I scrape up the excess with a squared off tongue depresser and wipe up with mineral spirits. Quicker and cleaner than masking. Jim

[S/V Deo Volente]

I often don't take the time to mask either, but boy is that stuff sticky and easy to spread. You can let it dry and trim it with a knife too!

[jim]

good ideas , thanks.
Think I'll go with bedding and no gaskets.
Now when do I have time to do it???

[Randy]

Mine too are in need of rebedding and life lines need to be replaced. Has anyone used Spectra line vs. cable?

[Bernie]

I have just removed and rebedded all of my stanchions. did away with the rubber gaskets. But I would seriously recommend replacing the fiberglass backing plates with at least a 1/4" aluminum plate. I did on all of mine and they are solid.

[Shacklepin]

Thanks for the good advice,
I was only talking about these gaskets to my local West Marine Guru the other day. He said he'd never heard of a gasket material, nor was there anything specific on the market. I intend doing a refurb to seal the leaks but its now down the list as my 'V' box has resigned and mobility is a priority.

[captsandy]

Just another tip. When bedding anything don't tighten and squeze out all the bedding, only snug the hardware dowm initally and wait a couple of days to finally tighten. This leaves more bedding between the surfaces and actuall acts as a gasket that you can tork down more latter if needed.
   Sandy

[Jim S]

I have had several years experience with a product called butyl caulk and have found it nearly foolproof when bedding any deck and hull above waterline fittings.  It is very easy to use and easy to clean up.  It is available as Rope Caulk from Ace Hardware and Mortite from Big Box home stores.  I costs about $6 for 90' of 1/8" ropes.  I prefer the Ace product because it is more pliable and stickier.  We have used it for: 10 bronze ports, 4 wooden hand rails, 10 stancions, anchor windlass, 4 ladder padeyes, caulking open holes in the masts, etc.  We used to have a pernicious deck leak that dripped at the aft end of the port settee that we had been unable to remedy.  After using rope caulk we have no deck leaks...NONE!  We had tried all the other bedding and caulking products but this is the best by far.