Shift cable

[Davis207]

The gear shifter cable is getting really sticky.  The actual transmission lever moved back and forth with no resistance what-so-ever...the resistance is entirely in the cable.

Attached is a photo of the "transmission end" of the cable where it's secured to the engine.  Both ends of the cable seem to terminate in a ~4" rod.  I was hoping that I could simply pull the cable out, clean and lube, then re-insert if from the cockpit end.  However, the rod on the transmission end seems to prevent this. 

After removing the compass to access, I can still barely see the cable end.  I've sprayed lithium "grease" and some other lubes on both ends and worked the cable back and forth (with the shift lever) which seems to have improved things slightly. Both ends seems to be somewhat sealed, so I don't know if pulling the cable through is viable, or if replacing the entire cable is needed.  That seems rather drastic.

Any thoughts?  Is removing the cable possible?  How does one even access the shift end, which seems inaccessible in the cockpit pedestal?


Thanks

Chuck
Wind Dragon
#379 (Sloop)
   

[Dale Tanski]

Chuck,
The cable is like you discribe, not really servicable as the inner moving cable portion can not be removed from the outer housing.

Typically how they fail is the outer jacket breaks down and cracks and allows moisture to migrate inside. 

Most control cables have 10-32 threaded ends for the attachment accesories to screw on to.  They also are offered in 1 foot increments typically starting around the 6ft mark.

The boat got 30 plus years out of this one not too bad when you think about it. 

Easiest way to get at it is remove the compass and remove the wheel brake assembly to be able to get down in there. Use a good quality duct tape to attach the new to the old and carefully pull the new one through.

Dale

[Davis207]

Dale,  Thanks for the info.  Do you know the length?  I need that in order to order a replacement without taking out the old one to measure it.  I need to leave the old one in to use it to pull through as you suggest.

The ends do have a 10-32 threaded end as you say. 

The forum comes through again!

Happy Independence Day!

Chuck

[Dale Tanski]

Chuck,
I just may in my stack of stuff. Give me a day or two to take a look.
Dale

[Dale Tanski]

Chuck,
I believe that the shift cable length is 9ft but I can not be sure.  I would tie/tape a short section of line on to the existing cable, pull the line through and use the line to pull the new cable back into place when you get it.
Dale

[Davis207]

Thanks for the info Dale.  I have the new cable [turns out the old cable is a 5/16, but mcMaster0Carr sells conversion inserts ]

What I can't do is manage to pull the cables up and out of the pedestal.  I've unbolted the internal clamp that holds the throttle and shifter cables (see photo of external side of bolt)  This photo is a screen grab from a YouTube video showing a cable replacements on the same pedestal. (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UvCL_NwOMbo&t=5s)

I've even cut the old shift cable right below the pedestal (above the fuel tank), and pulled the throttle cable very slack under the cockpit floor, but still can not get the clamp nut to come up. It's loose and moves around, just not up! 

In another Youtube video, the person stated they had to remove their steering chain in order to get the cables out.  I hope not!  As you can see in the other photo, my cables are swagged onto the eye-bolts.  Not clamped...so that'd open an entirely new (and larger) can of worms.

Any ideas?  I am at a loss here.  I have to travel to attend to some family issues and may have to hire the local boat mechanic, but I hate doing that.  The only other "professional" work on the boat was a rigger when I replaced all my standing rigging.

All suggestions appreciated.

[Skookster]

Hi Chuck, I hope you solved this. I also had to replace pedestal cabling last month. Throttle snapped during windy docking--made for some excitement. So, I replaced both cables and am glad I did--the tranny cable was nearing the end, too. Very difficult to remove, as you found.

My SS quadrant eye bolts are (still) seized into the aluminum, but I am hopeful that alternating PB Blaster and heat gun on the aluminum will loosen them up. In the meantime, I removed one of the pulley center pins beneath the pedestal and that was the key, the slack allows you to move the chain off the pedestal sprocket and pull that cast aluminum clamp fitting up on one side of the steering wheel shaft. Check out the Edson guide, you have to get both on one side to pull that clamp out so you can remove the cables: (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=60npYH3fKlM). A long standard screwdriver helps maneuver that cast clamp fitting around. If it seems bound despite the clamp being loose, see if the plastic cable jacket is catching on a sharp metal edge as it enters the bottom of the pedestal. It seemed that pushing from below freed it when pulling from above, the jacket had caught.
I had a 6400 (5/16-24) transmission cable and a 3300 (10-32) throttle cable. The 6400 was overkill, Skookum has a velvet drive 71C1:1 that shifts with one finger at the actuator, so I replaced that cable with another 3300 (both 9 feet). Had to get an adaptor fitting to go from the skinny cable to the wider shifter clevis at the pedestal, but it actually fit better at the business end (https://bunkerhillcables.com/thread-adapter-10-32-female-thread-5-16-24-male-thread/). The 3300 has a shorter throw than a 6400 cable, so I used the lower of the two holes at the transmission lever (closer to the pivot point--same shifter range with less cable throw). Getting things routed properly is really important, took me 2x to avoid interfering with the steering chain/cable, key was to run vertically up in the aft side of the pedestal.
Reassembly of the removed pulley was hard. I got everything tight from the chain to the quadrant on the far side pulley (note that the cables cross inside the pedestal), then replaced the missing pulley with no slack to spare, took some leverage and language. Lube the pulley pins (and everything else) while you're at it. Loosening the quadrant bolts and reseating with anti-sieze is on my near-term list, it will make this way easier in the future. Once it was all back together, man the controls are so much smoother. Shoulda checked them years ago. 

[Davis207]

Skookster,

My experience mirrors your almost exactly, such as the cable sizes and the need for an adapter.  I ended up using 2x 10' cables as the 9' ones were out of stock. 

Thanks for the tip about adjusting the transmission lever!  As you said, it's a 1-finger movement at the business end.

I was able to unbolt the eyebolts on the steering quadrant and loosen the steering chain that way.  A must for pulling up the d@%#! cable clamp. 

The key to installing the new cables is tieing a string to the end of one so that you can push it under the  wheel shaft then pull it back up on the correct side. 

The difference in movement is amazing!

This weekend will be final adjustments and testing, but overall, glad it is done and complete.

Chuck