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Caprail Replacement

Started by jpendoley, October 30, 2021, 05:35:53 PM

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jpendoley

Its time to think about winter projects. My caprail is in terrible shape. Bungs all gone and screwheads protruding. The wood is too worn to sand and rebung. I am considering fabricating a replacement-its seems to be built in three sections of varying lengths and I do not believe they were steamed to shape, but were thin enough to bend into position.  What are the surprises ahead of me? Am I correct in assuming the screws penetrate all the way through the bulwark and will all need to be filled? thinking of doing teak again, possibly sapele. All advice appreciated!
Jim

Dale Tanski

Jim,
I have been contemplating replacing my cap rail as well.  It appears to be quite the job.  Yes the screw heads you see do penetrate the top of the bulwark.  By my estimation they are the easy ones.  It is the through bolts that hold the jib track on that will be the tough ones.  It will be a two person job to remove and replace those.  They are accessible from below but many of mine have hardened goop and are only semi replaceable.
You are correct that the cap rail assembly is fabricated from three pieces.  The top two horizontal pieces and the outer vertical edge.  I do not think they steamed them when they installed them at the factory.  They are thin enough that they should bend around the corner without too many issues. 
The longer the pieces the better as bending them becomes easier.  The joints will need some attention as they will tend to remain straight.  I was thinking of making the top boards in one long length even applying fiberglass cloth on the bottom side to strengthen the joints.  This would make it easier to maintain the curve during installation.  I was also thinking of leaving the inner top board in place and using that as a form to bend the outer one around.  Once the outer one is secure the inner one could be installed by clamping to the new outer one.  I also think that the outer board should be installed slightly wider than the finished width and after the vertical 3rd piece is installed running a router around the outer edge would size the top board perfectly to the vertical piece. 
Like any boat project, it will be a bit pricey but if it lasts another 40 years it is a good investment. 

Dale
"Maruska"
Pearson 365 Cutter Ketch
1976 Hull #40
Buffalo, N.Y.