Universal 5444 diesel

[Hooligan]

I can't believe I asked this group what type of alternator they have on their 5444 diesel and did not get one answer. 97 people saw my post and I got nada. Come on people someone must know what
alternator they have on their boat. A little help please.

[SVJourney]

To be fair, not many people have that engine. 

Also, I bet there are at least 50 different alternators on peoples engines.  Owners have sized up from the stock alt for the most part. 

If you have a bad Alt, all you need are the frame and hole sizes to get a new one from pretty much where ever you wish.  Decide on what amperage you want to run and buy one.  There are a few humongous threads here on the board on the topic that take into consideration size, loading on the engine, intended usage of your boat etc.  Must reads if you want to learn about it.

Cheers
Wayne

[PeteW]

I have a Westerbeke W58 in my boat. My alternator is a retrofitted 100 amp Ford automotive alternator with an external smart regulator. It required some custom bracket work and  a dual pulley/belt for the 100 amp load.

But from what I can tell from Toad Marine, the alternator for the Universal 4555 (P/N 302280) in no longer available. An Arco 55 amp 12V Mando Alternator (P/N 60050) seems to be the recommended OEM replacement. Fits Universal, Mercruiser, Westerbeke and Volvo marine engines. Some spacers or modifications may likely be needed to get it installed. Maybe not.   Goes for around $160 on EBay and various other supply houses.

[Hooligan]

Wayne, I have read all the threads on alternators. None of them address my question. " what type alternator does a 5444 diesel take"  I know people have changed alternators that's fine, just tell me what kind you have. That's pretty simple right? I just want to know what alternator you are using on
a 5444 diesel.

Pete thanks for the info that helps. Never heard of Toad Marine.

[P69]

Hi Hooligan,

I have the same motor you have, I don't have a standard alternator or bracket.

I replaced my unknown/unmarked alternator with the 100 amp alt. from Rich  (http://www.cruiserowaterandpower.com/High_Output_Alternators.html) and made my own alternator bracket.

The alternator bracket that was on my engine appeared to be a hastily, poorly designed bracket system and was difficult to adjust belt tension.

I made my own alternator bracket to use an alt. with the "yanmar foot" (3.15" inside distance)
http://bodylens.com/Gallery/thumbnails.php?album=1

[Hooligan]

P69,  I saw the pictures of your work. That looks like a great alternator bracket. Do you have the drawings for it? I would love to have one made. Then I could use a Yanmar 80 amp. Alt. That i already have.
You also made that dipstick extension, right? What a great idea.

[P69]

Sorry, don't have any drawings of the alt. bracket. I made cardboard templates for the parts. I think I still have the templates. I can trace them onto paper, scan and post here.

The alternator bracket is modeled after a Universal retrofit for the Universal M-25 engine which has a bracket that has been known to fail, causing loss of oil.

I'll find the templates and get them up here within a few days.  Until then, review this page:

http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/universal_alternator_bracket

I just looked at these pictures and made my own bracket based on this design.

The problems I encountered/have are:

1. Bracket must be able to adjust fore/aft, athwartship, and angled to ensure pulleys are all on the same plane. It's a pain to do,  but can be done. Problem is that it has to be done whenever you remove the bracket. Once its done, it's done (unless you have to remove the gear case to replace the oil pump because you didn't think to replace the $100 item, kubota part number: 15471-35010, when the engine was torn apart).

2. Studs holding exhaust manifold have to be replaced (need longer ones) and the only studs I could find have non-threaded dia that is same or slightly smaller than dia of threads. This caused the studs to not bottom out when the non-thread shoulders hit the cylinder head. I had same issue with v drive.  It looks like today's studs have threads that are pressed in, making the non-thread dia smaller, rather than threads that were cut.  Not a machinist, so that is only a guess, but it's frustrating as hell to deal with.

3. You have to make sure the exhaust studs are sealed because they penetrate the coolant passages in the head (dumb design, but that's what it is) and with no sealant, coolant will leak out.  I used some kind of permatex or something always-stay-flexible sealant.

4. The bracket has to come off when you remove the gear case. That means you have to remove the manifold stud nuts (and risk turning the studs/breaking the seal with subsequent leak of coolant).  Now you need to realign the bracket so pulley's are on same plane (used a framing square between crank pulley and alt pulley at several points).

Although there have been failures of the alt bracket part of the gear case on the M25, I have not heard of any failures on the 5444, so it might not be necessary to make this bracket.  I had the engine out so I made the bracket because I could.

I also made a custom plate that bolts to the alternator and connects to a tie rod for easy belt tension. with this setup I have a choice of wide range of belt lengths (48" to 50") and tension is easy to adjust.

-- SS connecting rod ends ---
Right hand:  http://www.mcmaster.com/#59915k273/=12bayks
left  hand:  http://www.mcmaster.com/#59915k232/=12bayoi

-- connecting rod --
http://www.mcmaster.com/#turnbuckle-style-threaded-connecting-rods/=12ij0nx


Dip stick was easy (nothing is ever easy at first).  Get a length of bendable copper tube with OD of around 0.5".

Sand one end until it fits snugly into the engine block where crappy factory dip stick goes. Once you have perfect fit with copper, bend it to the curve where you want and cut to length

Take it and some SS tube of same dia. to machine shop and have them compress the lower end to match you copper template and bend to the curve of that template.

Then just make a SS plate ( I used 3/16" x 1.25" ss flat bar) that spans two of the exhaust manifold bolts. All that is left is to polish it up with fine grit paper and polising compound: Done!. Well, not really. you have to find a new long dipstick, calibrate it with new marks, flare out the upper end of the new dipstick tube so the new dipstick easily seats inside the tube.

I'll post to this thread when I get the alt bracket templates scanned.

[Hooligan]

 P69, Thank you so much for your help. I am on my way down the ICW so I probably will not have Wifi for a few days till I get to Charleston SC.
  Thanks again.

          Ed Hart

[P69]

Ed,

Here is the info regarding the alternator bracket.

I found some of the cardboard templates and scanned them.

Main-Bottom2.pdf and Main-top2.pdf: Cut them out and match them up on the "marks"; it bolts to the exhaust manifold.   This is a scan of the actual cardboard template.

Part2.pdf is the piece that bolts to the gear case

Altarm.pdf is the acutal carbboard template of the part that bolts to the alternator. It has many adjustment bolt holes, shows in red dots, approx. position.  YOu drill thest to suit your anticipated adjustment needs. These holes are what allow for the wide range of belt lengths (48" to 50").

One part that is missing is the lower adjustment bracket that bolts to the oil pan. You can see it in this picture: http://bodylens.com/Gallery/displayimage.php?album=1&pid=42#top_display_media

It's bolted to the pan with two bolts. The tie rod is connected to the upper part with one bolt

Five parts
1. Main part that bolts to the exhaust manifold
2. Weld this 90 degrees to the main part, this bolts to the gear case
3. 1" x 1.25" drilled for the altenator bolt. Weld this to the main part
4. 1" x 1.25" drilled for the altenator bolt. Weld this to the main part
   Parts 3 and 4 should be positioned so that outside faces are 3.15" apart (the inside measurement of the "yanmar" foot
5. Piece of 1/4" stock cut at ~3/8" wide welded on back side of the main piece between 90 degree weld and the cut out for the lift bracket bolt aft of the exhaust manifold. Represented by the green line on template
6. Gussets (not shown on diagrams). Weld some gussets on the outside of the 90 degree corner to support it. I put them on the outside because it was easier to clean up the welds and there is more room. You can see the
  Here is a picture of the gussets: http://bodylens.com/Gallery/displayimage.php?album=1&pid=26#top_display_media

[Hooligan]

P69. I got it.  I will start working on the Alt. bracket as soon I I get down to Florida. Thank you so much for the help.  This will solve
a big prolbem. I will now be able to use my Balmar Alternator on my 5444.

   Ed Hart

[kevin barber]

I have a Universal 5444 on my 1982 Cutter.

I added a Balmar 100a alternator about 10 years ago. 
The model I have is 621-100SR-IG.  That number has been replaced with a new model called the 621-100-SV.   It fits perfectly on the stock single foot mount. 
I use a ARS-5 regulator, and have installed the small engine circuit, that downgrades the alternator down to 50% output when I absolutely need the extra engine power.

The setup works as advertised, and is my main method of charging.

[Della and Dave]

I can't be of much help on the type of alternator on that engine, because we have the W40, and I think we have a Motorola alternator, but I am not even sure about that.  I have not had to mess with it yet, and probably won't until it fails, or we go seriously cruising.   

I can point you to a couple of threads that I read with great interest that are on the blog.  The first is discussing the ins and outs of diffract alternator setups.  It's at http://www.pearson365.com/forum/index.php?topic=1293.msg7430#msg7430

The other is by Pete mostly talking about his setup.  I'll see if I can find it.  It has some pictures and a technical discussion of what the limits are.  The Westerbeke manual also has some info. 

[Verne]

Happy to help a little here, as I hear your frustration. I have a BOMAR High AMP Alternator.  HOWEVER, if you "think" your current alternator has failed, some are in decent enough condition to just be rebuilt.    My BOMAR was rebuilt about 5 years or more ago and I have had no issues with it what so ever. Look around, find the closest boat yard that does large engine boat repair, like on Bertram or Viking or even Ocean Yachts type boats. These mechanics will know a reputable alternator shop. Go bring that shop a dozen doughnuts, sit, ask, learn.  Best $10.00 you will spend.  Readers are correct, tons of options.  50 AMP , 100AMP.  BOMAR, other brands.  Also - inspect your mounts, and have extra belts.  If you replace it....have a reputable mechanic make sure the alignment is correct. If you are off a bit, you will eat belts and ware out front bearings.  If you need more, email me direct at <vroyster@comcast.net>.
Verne - Deja Vu 367 -

[Dale Tanski]

Hey,

I read almost all of the posts on this site even if i only have a casual interest. You never know what one will learn or how you can help.  Count me in as one of the 97 but I don't have a Universal engine and replaced my alternator with a Balmar unit.

I wish I could help.  I would think any alternator rebuilder worth a rip could look at your old one and know exactly what it is.

Dale
Obersheimers