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Hull-to-Deck Joint

Started by P69, November 23, 2016, 10:49:13 PM

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P69

I'd like some advice on the hull-to-deck joint.

I'll be  removing all teak on the toe rail and will not replace it. I'm going to gelcoat it.

What I'd like to know is if anyone has reinforced the hull-to-deck joint either with additional fiberglass (exterior, interior, or both) and/or additional through bolts. The genoa tracks are through bolted and that accounts for nearly half of the hull-to-deck length.

Also, for anyone who has removed the teak (not replaced) and added through bolts, did you countersink the heads and cover with glass or leave the heads exposed?


Has anyone felt it was necessary to reinforce the hull-to-deck joint?

Not sure how consistent Pearson was on their boats, but my 367 has some kind  of adhesive (5200, poly or epoxy putty??) in the joint with stainless screws all around, including where the genoa tracks are through bolted. I don't know if the screws I see were to hold the joint together or if those are the screws that hold the teak down.

Lastly, are there any known cases of the hull-to-deck joint on our boats (or maybe the 424s) coming apart because of adhesive failure?

Thanks y'all.


S/V Deo Volente

"S/V Deo Volente"
Pearson 365 Pilothouse
Hull #17 1980
Duluth Minnesota
Bob

S/V Deo Volente

This sad picture was the result of hurricane Gonzalo in Bermuda. In spite of the damage, the deck joint seems to have held.

"S/V Deo Volente"
Pearson 365 Pilothouse
Hull #17 1980
Duluth Minnesota
Bob

P69

Hi Bob,

Thanks for the picture and links.
I guess the joint is plenty strong. I'll just make it pretty and maintenance free.  :)


P69

#4
Since i had all teak and hardware off the hull-deck joint, I went ahead and laid in three layers of 1708 biax with epoxy to the interior of the hull-deck joint. Got tired of the water leak and saw some gaps where the two flanges met. Also, whatever sealant was used between flanges was brittle. Maybe was that way from factory, maybe got hard after 30 years. Either way, doesn't matter; it's sealed up now. 

After sanding the rough spots smooth, I put in thick epoxy to fill the gaps and span holes so the glass had  full contact. Then a skinny strip of glass over the inner curve , the wider, then finally one wide enough to run up the outer curve, along the top, then down to the curve where the horizontal part of the deck starts.

That was a difficult job, squeezing up in all the narrow places to sand it smooth, clean grime, then lay in the fiberglass.  I was able to reach all areas, except outboard of the starboard v berth cabinets. Having the boat torn apart made the decision to do this job much easier.

Now, I can fill the hundreds of holes from the top, lay in some cloth on the outside, and fair it in to prep for gelcoat on the exterior.

The light splotches under the cloth is from the thick epoxy. IT was not evenly spread, just spread to fill gaps and to get the 1708 to squish into it.

Here are some pictures.

I also cut out the liner in the v berth to get to the unused space. I'll build in some storage cabinets.


Deck joint:
http://bodylens.com/Gallery/thumbnails.php?album=33

V berth:
http://bodylens.com/Gallery/thumbnails.php?album=34

SVJourney

P69
Looks like you removed the forward water tank too?  Was wondering what you were thinking about storing there(how you plan to use the space). Its not very useful to us as it is hard to access with our matteress and the slope of the bottom.
We have 200 feet of chain in the locker, almost 300 lbs.  I wonder what the designer envisioned for an anchor rode as far as weight and balance of the boat goes.  One of the things of love about our boat is the fine entry we get into heavy seas.  I've never had 400 lbs of water up there and wonder if it would make a difference in the sea kindliness we have enjoyed.
The PO of our boat just cut 2 big holes in the top of the tank to convert to storage.  I can't decide whether to glass a patch on top to revive the tank, or to finish the job and remove the pipes, baffle, etc and finish the tankectomy.   LOL, when we first got the boat, I asked Dana to fill the water tanks.  She went right to the front, opened the fill port, and proceeded to fill that storage area with water.

Thanks for the pics and drawings, I very much appreciate the amount of work you did to post this up.

Wayne
www.GalleyWenchTales.com is our cruising blog.

P69

What what was I thinking!?  If i had a dollar for every time I asked myself that, I could buy a new boat.  :)

Yes Wayne, the tank is gone. It was a stinky hole that could not be cleaned and the baffle was partially separated, so I took a sawzall to it and got rid of it.

I plan on dividing that roughly in half (partition running athwartship). The forward part will hold my anchor chain The stbd anchor will be handled by the windlass and dump it all down a chute into the fwd part of the vberth. The port anchor rode will be manhandled down into its hole. It also will run down into the same spot,  The two rodes will be separated by some kind of parititon.  Haven't quite figured out the dynamics of getting the chain down there without it piling up along the way.   My goal is to get as much of it down and aft. I didn't like the 200' chain sitting up high in the original chain locker.

The remaining part of where the water tank will be a) another water thank or b) storage for stuff not in high use (spare anchor, lines, not sure. I haven't really thought that out completely.

Both compartments will be accessible from the top like that tank was.