RV 10 Re-Install

[Davis207]

Pulled the RV10 and had it re-built by Walters.  Looked like the first time its been out of the boat since 1981.  Well, it looks good now, just need it back in the bilge.

The instructions say to maintain no more then 0.003" gap between the prop shaft and VDrive flanges.  However, as you can see in the photo's, the shaft flange has a key which extends beyond the flat "plane" of the flange.  1/8" beyond to be exact.

There is no matching detent in the vDrive flange, so getting a close matching on the flanges can happen.  Unfortunately, I do not have any photos of this detail pre-removal. 

Am I missing something, or should bult them together with the key flush to the VDrive flange?

Chuck Davis
SV Wind Dragon,
#379, Sloop

[PeteW]

What your pictures show is what's called a flange with a male pilot on the RV-10. The shaft coupler must have a matching female pilot. Your shaft coupler will not mate as it appears that the key has shifted flush and the coupler mating surface and it is covered with paint.  The female pilot looks pretty banged up. Without removing the flange coupler and getting it re-faced on a lathe there may be little change that you an achieve the required .003" parallel alignment between the RV-10 flange and the shaft coupler flange.

You might want to simply purchase new coupler and have it fitted to your shaft. If the boat is out of the water this would also be the time to check the shaft, cutless bearing and stuffing box along with its hose and clamps.

RV-10 looks good. Did Walter Machine put a new output shaft in it?

Pete   Pearson 365 Ketch

[SVJourney]

The flange face is critically important.  The shaft coupler should mate evenly and without any slop.  I had this problem on mine, just a small imperfection that caused me to pull my hair out trying to get alignment.  It took my machinist about 10mins to chuck it up in his lathe and true it up again.   

I would test fit the couplings together by hand without the shaft to ensure they fit well.  I had messed mine up by getting a little too carried away with the mallet on removal. 

LOL, learn from my fail.

[Della and Dave]

The shaft picture shows the key that keys the coupler to the shaft sticking out more than it should.  That's probably Mis-assembly by someone in the past.  Or possibly a key that was too long.  There is a slot in the shaft that it fits into.  You don't want the key riding the radius of the slot. 

I would start by removing the flanged coupler from the shaft.  Will probably take a good soaking with penetrating oil, PB blaster or Kroil.  (Carefull not to get it on seals, it's hard on rubber stuff) I used a small socket between the shaft and the Vee drive flange and three longer bolts and tightened the bolts with th socket between the two flanges to press it out. Carefull not to apply too much force, don't want to bend the new Veer drive flange.  After you get it apart, I agree with Pete and Wayne to take it to a shaft shop for truing or a new shaft and coupler. 

While it's apart, a new cutless bearing and a line cutter if you want one.  You will need a prop puller to get the prop off.