Stuffing Box Repacking Question

[jpendoley]

Hi Folks, Just launched my new 365 and am seeing a high drip rate from the packing nut on the stuffing box. I'm going to attempt to repack in the water-not ideal I know-plan is to seal the outside of the prop aperture with putty to slow down the flow while I back the packing nut off and pull out the the old packing. Once I repack and tighten down, I will remove the plumbers putty from the outside and adjust.

Question I have is about access: can I disconnect the upper drive shaft from the walter vdrive to get access and room to turn wrenches then reconnect the drive shaft to the walter vdrive without going through an alignment process?  The shaft I'm referring to is not the prop shaft-its the shaft that attaches to the transmission on the back of Mr Perkins and runs into the vdrive before the prop shaft. Id just like it out of my way while adjusting the stuffing box and Id rather not have to learn how to align if its not necessary.  One less task would allow me to salvage one more weekend to sail. Thanks!

[Jim S]

Repacking while in the water is not a big issue.  Water will come in as a strong trickle but not spray in.  I have repacked my box three times while in the water and had no issues.  I would recommend leaving all the shafts connected because you need to run the engine to get the packing tightened correctly.  Just learn to kneel down and get the wrenches on the nuts.

Good luck

[Della and Dave]

I think you might find that it isn't all that necessary to remove the drive shaft between the transmission and the Vee drive.  You can work around it one arm on either side.  Getting good light setup helps.  I would have a rag of some kind ready to stuff around the prop shaft once the packing is backed off.   That way you can remorse the old packing and cut new rings calmly.  Get things setup so your bilge pumps will be able to handle the leakage.  Being on shore power would be a plus so you don't run out of battery. 

I am curious, I assume you already tried tightening it and you either bottomed out the thread and it still was dripping?  I ask because sometimes the shaft under the packing can corrode or wear and if that is the case, replacing the packing won't help.  If the nut is bottomed out, the most likely, the rings are worn out and need to be replaced. 

Get the wrenches sorted out before you begin.  A string on the wrench would keep it from falling into the bilge.   

[jpendoley]

Guys, I really appreciate the help. I did have a great first sail of the season this weekend and the nuisance pump kept up well. I think the packing nut is bottoming out at this point-and I agree-taking the upper tube off is a silly idea-just newbie anxiety and not wanting to make a mistake. This forum is a huge help-thanks! Pic attached of my first anchor out at the Isle of Shoals off the NH coast attached.

[SVJourney]

Nice pic!

[PeteW]

The big outer nut on the stuffing box should bottom out on the rope that you put up inside the outer nut. As you squish the outer nut down it should sandwich the rope between the inside of the outer nut and the housing. The jam nut on the housing should be backed down so it is not making contact with the outer nut just yet. As you hand tighten the outer nut the leaking should stop. Unless there is something really wrong.

Here's a checklist of things you need to answer to determine what the problem could be:
1. Did you use  3/16" flax wax rope? (that's what Buck Algonquin recommends for your box) I use the PTFE Teflon square stuff.
2 Did you cut 3 individual rings of rope by wrapping them on the shaft then cutting each single turn  with an exacto knife so the the ends butt up tight when installed. I like to cut them on a diagonal so the butt end meet with a miter. They seal off water better this way.
3. When you installed the rings did you stagger the cuts by 30 degrees.  This stops water from getting past the slits. You can install a rope ring and screw the nut on to bottom it out in the outer nut but make a mark  on the outside so you know where the slit location is so that you can put the next rope ring  in staggered.

The problem I have (and this is more typical) is they don't leak at all. Then things get really hot and the water boils in side the stuffing box.

A wax toilet ring is very good at blocking water from getting in the shaft log. They remain sticky even when wet. But sounds like you will not leak any faster with the nut removed so why bother.

You say the nut is bottoming out. It may be that it actually is not bottoming out as it should due to some damage to the threads on the stuffing box. This is a more serious problem. If you cant chase the threads you will be looking at a haul-out to replace the stuffing box assembly.

There are several youtube videos you can watch that show in-water stuffing box repacking. You can make a tool to remove the old stuffing rope and you will need that to get back to square one.

Good Luck

[jpendoley]

Pete and everyone else who chimed in, I can't thank you enough for your thoughtful replies. There is no substitute for experience. I asked the question before I made a re-attempt-sometimes gathering some perspective can make the job a success when previously it was baffling. Hoping for success on the next attempt.
Jim

[Della and Dave]

One other tip to make it easier, a dental pick and a mirror are handy.  The dental pick helpe you pick out the old packing rings and seat the new ones.  The mirror helps you see of you got all the old packing out and see if the new rings are in there right.    Compass marine has a pretty good article on it at http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/stuffing_box.   They also talk to the pros and cons of the different types of packing. 

Very nice picture!!!