Number Twenty Three

[#23]

some before and afters for y'all:


(August 2015)


(July 2016)




(August 2015)


(July 2016)



This morning I installed the next-to-last bit of salon trim, the last bit is on hold as I rebuild my soggy stbd aft bulkhead.

It's hard to believe that close to a year has flown by already. It sure feels good to finally stamp some projects "completed"!

[jpendoley]

Nice work! 
Since we are giving progress reports, my 365 galley rebuild is just about done. Thankfully we are launched and sailing, but the work continues for a little bit longer. Reefer is in, counter tops down, hatches built and sink and plumbing done.  I included the unfinished icebox photo to give a sense of the extent of the insulation upgrade. Hoping to keep power consumption around 25 Amps per day.

[#23]

that looks great - thanks for sharing!
how much freezer volume did you lose with the additional insulation?


yesterday and today were spent (finally) rebuilding my soggy corner in the aft bulkhead. Back in November I stuffed it full of butyl and buttoned it up for the winter, but the time had come to deal with it conclusively.

Digging out the spongy stuff on Saturday revealed that I'd only lost a 1/8" thickness in my 3/4" plywood bulkhead, in an approx 16" high by 3" wide section. Access was challenging, but I cleaned out all the loose stuff, tidied up the remaining edges as best I could and then brushed the entire area with a 5% borax solution to kill the fungal spores that cause wet rot and left it overnight. Once home I rough-cut a 1/8" plywood piece to fit into the new depression.

Sunday morning I spent about an hour making final cuts to the new filler piece and then prepped the site for glassing. First I taped off everything I didn't want epoxy on and then cut out my piece of woven fibreglass. I opted for a single piece that would sandwich the plywood filler by wrapping around it.


(you can see my final 1/8" asymmetrical plywood piece to the left)

I decided to lay the vertical piece of glass in dry and then dab it to the bulkhead, because wet fiberglass has a mind of its own when it comes to sliding it where you want it to go. Once in place and wetted, I put the plywood piece over it and then folded the other half of the dry fiberglass around and on top of it, nudging it into place with a couple of putty knives. Once that half was positioned, I wetted it and the plywood piece down and kept adding more epoxy until my little container of mixture kicked.

Then I snugged it tight with a couple of bolts, covered it up in case of rain and let it set overnight.

Today I examined it and was happy with the result, so I laid in a generous bead of Life-Calk and then re-bolted the bulkhead to the window frame. Since part of the original problem was poor compression, I had two stainless steel braces made, with holes for through-bolting the window frame, so the entire corner is now rigid instead of the Original Factory's "rigid-ish"


(finished exterior, minus the trim pieces)

[FBNOODLEMAN]

Howdy from Toothpick, our pilothouse 36 now residing in Puerto Vallarta, Mx,. since 2002. I was wondering if you replaced the scupper drain hose behind the stove/oven before you finished the galley? Our port side drain hose started leaking on a star. tack, and it was necessary to replace BOTH drain hoses. what a job: the port side was not too much of a problem, but the star. side was a huge problem. I had to cut the plastic surround of the oven away from its attachment, remove it, and do a half hour replacement of the drain hose, and then hours to re attach the plastic surround. Probably took an easy 8 hours of work. Now we have no leaks on either tack; the problem was the rubber hose had cracked, and the wire inside the hose was rusting and leaking at the truhull/hose attachment. jim Nordstrom aka Toothpick

[jpendoley]

Nice splice on #23-you should have been an orthopaedic surgeon!

  I did lose some volume on the ice box, but it was, IMHO to big anyhow.  Am hooking up my older AB compressor tomorrow and will see if I can make ice. The original insulation was only 2" thick and the compressor ran pretty much constantly. Hoping to keep daily consumption under 30 AMPS-will post results as soon as I have them.
As for the scupper drains, I did not have to make any changes, mine were still sound.

[#23]

Howdy from Toothpick, our pilothouse 36 now residing in Puerto Vallarta, Mx,. since 2002. I was wondering if you replaced the scupper drain hose behind the stove/oven before you finished the galley? Our port side drain hose started leaking on a star. tack, and it was necessary to replace BOTH drain hoses. what a job: the port side was not too much of a problem, but the star. side was a huge problem. I had to cut the plastic surround of the oven away from its attachment, remove it, and do a half hour replacement of the drain hose, and then hours to re attach the plastic surround. Probably took an easy 8 hours of work. Now we have no leaks on either tack; the problem was the rubber hose had cracked, and the wire inside the hose was rusting and leaking at the thruhull/hose attachment.

Hi Jim and thanks for posting. I haven't gotten behind the galley cabinetry yet but it's on my project list for a few reasons:

to pull out old dead wiring
to tee the galley sink to that same scupper, so I can eliminate one more thru-hull
for emergency access

I did replace the lazarette scupper hoses for the same reason you did: all that semi-tropic heat had made them friable. The portside midships seems fine but I can't see the stbd one because of the oven surround. I'm thinking that installing a round 8" inspection port behind the stove would do the trick. Based on your experiences, am I on the right track?

Nice splice on #23-you should have been an orthopaedic surgeon!

I did lose some volume on the ice box, but it was, IMHO to big anyhow.  Am hooking up my older AB compressor tomorrow and will see if I can make ice. The original insulation was only 2" thick and the compressor ran pretty much constantly. Hoping to keep daily consumption under 30 AMPS-will post results as soon as I have them.

Thanks for the attaboy! I'm looking forward to seeing how the end result turns out for you

[S/V Deo Volente]

Hi Guys,
I replaced those hoses also, and I also upgraded the waterline fittings to  bronze by Conbraco.
I had already made a drawer to fit the area under the stove and I cut an access hole in the fiberglass surround. I had a piece of stainless sheet metal that I used to cover the hole.

Drawer


Looking Through Drawer Opening


Plate Behind the Stove


I will also be rebuilding the anchor sprit since it failed two weeks ago during a severe thunderstorm with 85 mph winds, but that is another story.
Bob

[#23]

How are you making out with that Bowsprit, Bob?

***

In removing the groddy old side veneers last winter, the galley appliance controls (fridge thermostat, propane & 110v outlets) ended up homeless. Thinking up solutions, I decided to relocate them to the stbd niche of the "dish cupboard", so they'd be consolidated, logically accessible and yet still not in the way.



The purchase survey had recommended the installation of a propane sniffer, so I decided to upgrade from the ubiquitous Marinetics 580 LPG panel, that's been seemingly standard on every boat for decades, to the Fireboy S2A unit, which comes with plugs for two sniffers. The advantage to this unit is that it's both a controller and a sniffer, with the sniffers wired to shut off the solenoid and sound an alarm if gas is detected.

The project took a backseat while I renovated the rest of the main cabin, but yesterday I added this one to the "Completed" list.

Having ordered the S2A unit a couple of weeks prior, I used the wait time to pull out one cupboard divider and mock up a template, then fabricated the new control panel from 1/2" plywood. Since removing one divider gave me more room, I decided that this was also where the 12v powerpoint would also be located.

Yesterday's work began with removing the stbd wall panels and adding all the new electrical runs for the controls. The new panel would be hinged at the base and secured at the top, allowing quick maintenance access.

For 12v powerpoints, I chose a new product from Blue Sea Systems, as it has it's own fuse and circuit breaker and the twin USBs can be swapped out later on if portable recharging requirements change. The previous owners had hotwired all of their many, many 12v powerpoints, but I prefer that everything aboard be switched.

One of the last steps was locating and routing the one propane sniffer that came with the S2A. After deliberation I decided to mount the sniffer immediately below the oven, on the bottom of the stove's insert. In my opinion the bilge beneath the cabin sole is too well insulated and a propane leak at the appliance would accumulate on the cabin floor long before oozing its way into the bilge. As there's an option for a second sniffer, I will likely install that one in the lazarette, where the propane line exits the bottle locker.



All told it was a long-ass day but well worth the time and investment.

[JMB]

I just want to remind everyone that this is still summer, where we should be sailing and enjoying our Pilothouse's.

Fall is just around the corner with winterizing / haul out / and the start of next years projects.

I am impressed with all of the work done as shown by the photo's.

I also removed the stove to gain access to the stbd scupper hose - what a pain - stupid design.

[FBNOODLEMAN]

Yes, before finishing up any work in the galley/ stove area, do replace those scupper hoses. The idea of cutting an access hole in the back of the stove is a good one, much quicker than my project of cutting out the entire plastic surround of the stove. The access hole cover will not even show, and you could use white plastic for the cover as well.

[#23]

This past week was Haulout Week, with a couple more of the "to-do's" crossed off the project list and a few new ones added. Was a 2 and 1/2 day affair.

Dewatering Video: https://youtu.be/iPC8rcE-dss

In the "Completed" basket are: new PSS shaft seal & transmission coupler; the two Wilcox-Crittenden cockpit drains have been disassembled, cleaned, lanocoated and reassembled; the Perko head discharge seacock has been unstuck (which alone took 48 hours of penetrant, heat and profanity!), the bronze driveshaft and Max-Prop have been cleaned, re-zinced and lanocoated; and the bottom paint chipped and touched up.

The Perko probably hadn't been turned in 10 years and one of the cockpit W-Cs had an oyster shell inside it, so both issues illustrate the need for a monthly turning, if not biweekly.

Added to the 2017 project list are: replace the 35 year-old shaft strut; replace the Max-Prop with a fixed blade (the cone gear is worn); replace the 35 year-old bronze shaft with a stainless steel one; and replace the cutless bearing. Since replacing the shaft strut will necessitate a longer haul-out, I can also use that time to re-fair the bottom.

Given that the ship is more Winnebago than Racer, I'm not hung up on the fact that switching to a fixed-blade propeller will add drag. I reckon that re-fairing all the lumpy bottom paint off will make up for whatever drag a fixed prop will create.

In Other News: today marks one year since I purchased #23. Happy rebirthday, Dharma Bum! 

[#23]

After two weeks working in northern BC, I got back just in time to prepare for what was being forecast as a Category 1 hurricane.

I replaced all 56 window frame nuts with nyloks, re-Life Calked the portside lower frame seal, added fiberglass to the outside corner of the portside aft bulkhead (similar to my earlier stbd project), tightened up the bow stanchion base bolts, and removed the genoa.

Since I wanted to be aboard during the storm, I used the time to enlarge the half-arsed access panel in the shower stall and fit a gasketed hatch in its place:



This hatch accesses not only the shower sump thru-hull, but also an impressive volume of useable stowage space.

The storm ended up being locally downgraded - for which I'm appreciative. No damage to any of the boats at the marina, although I did see a lot of bilge pumps working.


I'm still pulling bits & pieces together for my 4 major projects, so stay tuned!

[#23]

Still "plugging" away at the shore power replacement. All of the new 14/3 and 10/3 wiring is roughed in, as are the three GFCI outlet boxes (galley, dinette and v-berth).

For fridge and hwt junction boxes, I'm using variations of these:



because they have watertight gasketed covers as well as rubber seals for the wire feeds.  Inside each are Blue Sea Systems 30amp terminal blocks.

The shore power will now be attached via a SmartPlug I've installed in the port cockpit cubby, where it's out of the rain and clear of knocks and bumps.

more photos and details once it's all complete!

[S/V Deo Volente]

Feels good to make headway eh? I made a door in the shower also, there is too much room there to only access it by taking out 20 screws. By the way those cubbies are called "winch alcoves" in Pearson literature.

[#23]

Feels good to make headway eh? I made a door in the shower also, there is too much room there to only access it by taking out 20 screws. By the way those cubbies are called "winch alcoves" in Pearson literature.

That looks great Bob - do you have shelves back there? if so, how did you set them up?