Dip stick extension

[Risto and Liz]

I am fanatical about checking oil daily and having to crawl down into the port cockpit locker every time just would not do.
I found this old post for extending the dipstick http://www.pearson365.com/forum/index.php?topic=3.0;prev_next=prev#new
I looked at it and made a 'simplification'
I went to NAPA and bought the longest 'universal' dip stick they had, 32" and a 40" piece of 3/8" brake line. The new dipstick has an adjustable stop with a felt pad to seal to the tube. I just put the stop up as far as possible with a bit of room for adjustment, used the old dip stick as a guide to layout how long the tube needed to be. After cutting to length with a tubing cutting and de-burring the inside with a round file, I sprayed it with a couple coats of Rust-oleum. Here is where I simplified. I just took a 3" section of 3/8 rubber fuel line and worked it half way on to the cut end of the painted tube then, after removing the old dip stick from the engine tube, just reached down with the tube extension and pushed the rubber fuel line unto the engine tube. It is a very snug fit and I am inclined not to even bother with hose clamps. To stabilize the upper end I shaped a piece of 3/4" Starboard as a spacer secured to the drain hose from the cockpit drain. Then all I needed to do was to slide the new dip stick down the tube and adjust the stop until the oil level read properly
I wanted a better seal at the top of the dip stick in addition to the felt pad so I took a couple wraps of 'rescue tape' on the stick just below the stop.
This makes it easy to check the oil from the cockpit without having to be a contortionist. 
For oil changes the small tube for my Moeller extractor fits perfectly and is long enough to reach to the oil pan.
Does anyone have any reason that this is not a workable solution? Feed-back is appreciated!

[PeteW]

This sounds like a worthwhile modification. What's more important to me is a working audible oil pressure alarm. Low oil will not ruin your engine but no oil pressure takes less than a minute to cause catastrophic engine failure. After that an over temp alarm is important.    Pete

[Della and Dave]

I'm thinking of doing the same thing, do you have any pictures?  The only caution I would have with the details is that some rubber hose is not comparable with oil, even fuel hose.  It a good idea to check the manufacturers web site.  There is also a temperature rating on hoses.  Where did you put the top end?

[Risto and Liz]

The rubber hose is automobile 3/8" fuel line so it should be ok with oil. I reality it should not even come in contact with oil since it is only connecting the existing dipstick tube to the extension. The heat factor is a good question. I will check on that.
The extension tube runs straight up and is anchored with a block of Starboard (could have used wood except for my love affair with Starboard and an  abundance of scraps  )
Next time I get to the boat i will take some pictures. It sure was nice yesterday to just reach into the cockpit locker and grab the dipstick!

[Jim Cozy]

I made the same modification 4-5 years ago, posted it last April. Has worked flawlessly. Jim

[Risto and Liz]

Did you bother with hose clamps?

[Sailorlou]

Has anyone done a dip stick extension on the Universal M50 that was in some of the 367 Cutters?  There is no tube sticking up from the engine block to attach to.  The dip stick just fits into a hole on the block.

[Jim Cozy]

Yes, I did use hose clamps. But I also use a vacuum method for oil change and I wanted to assure airtight joints. Good luck.  Jim

[Firefly]

Definitely adding this to my 'to do' list

[Lady Ann]

Would love to see pics of this modification so I have a better appreciation.
If you have time, thanks,
Jason

[SVJourney]

Pete,
Dana picked up an alarm system from West Marine for about 15 bucks.  Easy to install, but the only problem is that we screwed the sensor into an available journal in the block that is connected by a hose to the oil system on the starboard side of the engine.  The problem is that this is a dead end, non flowing journal that sludges up.  So when I shut the engine down it takes sometimes 30 seconds for the alarm to kick on.  So I have a 30 second slow start on a NO oil pressure situation.  I do occasionally pull the sensor out before an oil change and hold a container there while cranking the engine, but it seems to still be a problem.

Has anybody mouted their sensor in a different place with better results?

Wayne

This sounds like a worthwhile modification. What's more important to me is a working audible oil pressure alarm. Low oil will not ruin your engine but no oil pressure takes less than a minute to cause catastrophic engine failure. After that an over temp alarm is important.    Pete

[P69]

Lou and anyone else who wants a better dipstick on their 5444/M50

I got around to making a dip stick extension for my Universal 5444.
Made it out of 1/2" ss tube, generic dip stick from auto store, and piece of 3/16" x 1.25" flat bar.

Now the dip stick pokes up about an inch  above the exhaust manifold; much easier to check oil now.


-- Fastening Strap and tube --
3/16" x 1 1/4" x 6 1/2" 316 stainless steel flat bar
Hole centers: 5.30"
Hole diameter: 9.5mm (some leeway because I'm not that good at drilling two or more holes that line up perfectly).

McMasters: 89785K845: 316 Smooth-Bore Seamless Stainless Steel Tubing, 1/2" OD, .402" ID, .049" wall
The strap holds the upper part of the dip stick in place. A tight fit in the block  and firm grip with the strap is all that is needed to keep the new tube in place.


-- Exhaust Manifold Studs --
Need longer studs

These studs are about 1/4"+ longer than you will need because of my alternator bracket.

Additional stud length needs to be tube dia (0.5") + strap (0.1875") + nut and lock washer for the M8 stud. Studs listed are what I used.
A couple of M8 x 1.25 nuts. You don't use the nuts that hold the manifold on, you use additional nuts.

Exhaust manifold bolt diameter:  8mm  (M8 x 1.25)

McMasters: 93275A035: Black oxide steel Adjusting and Positioning Stud, M8 x 1.25 Thread, 140mm overall length, 35 mm thread length on both ends

-- Dipstick --
Dipstick: Dorman: 917-024 (24" dip stick)
Full mark is at 1 1/4" up from the tip of the dip stick. I filed a horizontal mark on both side, drilled a small hole through the stick and I roughed up the surface below the Full mark.


-- Process --
For the bend, use a piece of 1/2" copper tubing (from a coil not a straight piece) and bend it to shape so it curves up and right along side the exhaust manifold
Take that copper tube, the pipe, and the dipstick to a machine shop.

-- At Machine shop ---
Cut tube at 18 1/2" long

Reduce the OD of the lower end to fit the dip stick hole (~.471", but my caliper might be inaccurate)

Reduce the ID of the upper end so it fits the dip stick and its o-ring, maybe slight flare. If you don't do this, you will have to replace the oring on the dip stick and file the inside of the tube to accommodate the new oring, which will be slight ly bigger.  I recommend that you replace the oring (the one form Dorman is kinda cheap) with a better one, then as machine shop to reduce/flare the top end so the new oring has a very snug fit.

Bend the ss tube to match the copper tubing template you made.

The tube should go into the dip stick hole about 1/2" or so, leaving 18" exposed. With this setup, you will not have to cut the dip stick; it will be an almost perfect match with the old dip stick, you jsut have to file a new Full mark on the stick because the one stamped on the stick will be too high.


When I made the copper tube template, I sanded the lower end so it was a tight fit and machine shop measured that new diameter to select a die to compress the ss tubing.

If you can't cut the fastening strap, ask the machine shop to do that also.

Back at your place, grind/file all the edges to whatever roundness you want, then use a brass wire wheel to remove all gray-ish surface the mill left on the steel. File the rough edges to prep for sanding. Run the brass wire wheel around it one more time, then get to sanding.

Sand with 220 grit paper, then some 600 wet/dry (won't take very long)
Then put the polishing wheel in the drill press or drill gun and polish at about 2500 rpm for a few minutes and it'll shine.
Polishing compounds
  White is course, green is finer (usually the last compound for SS). The polishing compound sticks are hard, but soften with head, just push into the buffing wheel and it'll melt to liquid. Polish away; it was a lot easier than I expected.


Instead of buying a buffing/polishing motor for $100, get a $25 polishing kit like this one...
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200636991_200636991

and give it a whorl. It fits into your drill gun or drill press and is surprisingly easy to get a really good shine with these cheap kits.

I spent about an hour polishing those two parts. That includes brass wheel, 220 grit, 600 grit, then polishing wheel.  That does not inlcude the fabrication of the strip and rounding the ends, then filing the edges to get them smooth enough for sand paper. I guess I'll say about 3 hours total from raw material to finish.


Here are the pictures.
https://picasaweb.google.com/111274927949602013478/6297002367532752673#