New Found Metals Ports

[kevin barber]

Hi everyone,

I am just about to order five new 5x12 stainless ports from New Found Metals.  On NFMs website they explain a method of finding the cabin thickness without removing a portlight. Using that method, I am finding all sorts of variation in the cabin thickness in the cabin.  It seems that the thickest parts are 1/2", while other sections seem to only be 3/8" thick. 

I have seen Garners write up, and I have a feeling I will find a gap between the liner and the cabin similar to his.  I have seen photos of people not using the teak spacers while others have used them.

For those of you that have taken on this project:

Did you find similar ranges in thickness from port to port?
Did you find a 3/8" gap between the liner and cabin side like Garner?
Did you end up using the teak spacers?

Thanks so much!

Kevin
S/V Pan Dragon

[P69]

Kevin,

I rebedded and found that the thickness varied and there was a gap between skins.  I filled the gaps with thickened epoxy.  I shoved  fiberglass insulation (the stuff in the attic and walls of your house) into the gap a fair distance all around the per meter (2 -3"  deep), then filled the gap all around with thickened epoxy.  The bottom gap was sometimes difficult to plug with insulation because the gap expanded as it went downward in some areas. I just wadded up tight ball of insulation and crammed it in until it stayed. The insulation just needs to stay enough to prevent the flow of epoxy from draining away.  Once epoxy setup,I redrilled the holes and rebedded the ports, using butyl for the sealant on all the non-plastic frames (the four in main cabin area). Be careful to keep the total thickness close to the what it is now. The skins are flexible and will widen when you shove stuff into there. If it expands too much, the window fasteners (machine screws or through bolts) might not reach.

-Craig
367, #42

[Jim S]

We replaced all ports in Phantom in 2003 with NFM bronze ports.  The cabinside and interior liner are separate and
I epoxied the two together and installed the ports without the teak spacer.  If you do  not seal the cabinside to the liner, a source of leaks into the saloon is possible.  I used butly tape as the sealing mastic and, knock on wood, have no leaks.  The final thickness of the cabinside was about 1/2" and the port and rim seated properly.  The ports delivered to me had the 1 1/2" spigot.

The bronze opening ports give very good ventilation and a sense of elegance to the saloon.

[Sailorlou]

I replaced all of my port-lights with New Found Metals' stainless port-lights.  The 5 small 5x12's  I replaced 14 years ago and have never had a leak problem.  They look like new to this day and I have never had to polish them, just rinse the salt off with fresh water and wipe them dry.  The stainless screens are also like new after 14 years of use. 
To seal the port-lights use the butal that New Found can supply.  To fill the gaps I used Kitty Hair.  It is easy to use, will not run and provides all the structural strength you will ever need.  I replaced the 4 larger port-lights with the 6x20 size about 4 years ago.  The gap and hull thickness for the four larger port-lights is much thinner and will require teak spacers, but the 5x12's do not.
Richard Walcome is the owner of New Found Metals and is a good friend of mine.  Richard will provide you with all the help you need if you give him a call.  Also, rent the drill guide from him, it is well worth the small cost.

Lou
Captain s/v FarAway

[kevin barber]

All great input!!  So glad to see this board is still going strong over all these years.

I think I really like the Kitty hair idea Lou.  I think I will use 1/2" foam rod backer (found in the weather stripping dept at Lowes) to keep the kitty hair from sagging into the void.  I will make the cuts using a trim router and the template from NFM.  NFM now recommends using sticky backed closed cell foam strips in addition to the butyl sealant.  The foam is used in lieu of caulking on the trim ring. 

I have been dreaming of this project for years.  Very glad it is finally here!

Thanks again everyone,

Kevin
S/V Pan Dragon
1982 Pearson 367 Hull 41
Pensacola, FL

[Sailorlou]

Make sure you fill the gaps well, since these are through bolted you will be using a lot of pressure and you don't want the two walls to compress towards each other.

Lou
Captain s/v FarAway
1983 Hull #46

[kevin barber]

Project completed.

I ended up using kitty hair structural filler to fill the gaps between the cabin liner and coach roof.  I did use the teak spacers in the four forward ports, as the cabin thickness only ended up being 1/2" and I didn't want the long spigots of the ports to be potential toe stubbing hazards.  The teak spacers added 5/8" of an inch to the hull thickness, and gave the exterior ports a 1/4" spigot.   I omitted the teak spacer in the galley port, as the hull thickness was 5/8", and no possibility of toe injury in that location.

The Butyl and foam system that NFM recommends and sells made the job easy.  No caulking required.  

BTW- I found those fancy stainless cowl vents on Amazon.com.  Cast stainless and very nice!

Now of course I am dreaming of replacing the fixed ports.  Lou- How much cutting did you have to do to get the 6x20's in there?

Here is how she turned out.

[Sailorlou]

Looking good Kevin!

Very little cutting was needed to fit the 6x20's.  They fit really well, but pay close attention to the one over the galley so that your opening lever on the right side clears the dish rack above the fridge.

Lou