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Engine flushing

Started by SV Hope, September 28, 2013, 04:58:27 AM

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SV Hope

I am interested in opinions on flushing the W40 whilst the boat is in the water with access to fresh tap water. The heat exchanger & transmission oil cooler have anodes attached (which I check on a regular basis) but the V drive has no such protection. I have seen a Groco SSC engine flush kit, but I am not sure how effective they are. Thanks in advance.

Michael
"HOPE"
Pearson 365 Ketch
1980 Hull #309
Brisbane, Australia.

Jim S

You seem to be inquiring about a removal of scale and other unwanted accretions inside the raw water plumbing.  If so, several products one of which is rydlyme, are available to be pumped through the circuit, from the intake fitting to the outflow fitting.  The raw water pump impeller needs to be removes and the cover plate replaced for the procedure.   http://www.rydlymemarine.com/ is a site to explain the procedure. 
Jim S

SVJourney

I would think that simply closing the seacock and removing the hose to the raw water strainer and replacing  it with a garden hose to the tap would be good enough. Run the engine while the water flows through. Never thought about it but it would seem a good idea if the engine were going to be unused for a period of time.
www.GalleyWenchTales.com is our cruising blog.

SV Hope

Gents, thanks for your input.

Jim, why would the impeller need to be removed if I was to adopt your suggestion?

Wayne, would there be an issue with the water pressure from the tap? (either too much or too little) I understand one can purchase water pressure regulators if it were necessary.

My concern is with reducing a build up of scale and corrosion prevention in the V Drive and other areas which are affected by salt water cooling.

Cheers
"HOPE"
Pearson 365 Ketch
1980 Hull #309
Brisbane, Australia.

INCOMMUNICADO

Hope, There is a water pressure issue. I connected a water hose with 40 plus psi and filled the cylinders, that wasn't much fun. Start the engine with minimum flow (because you have no back pressure to keep the water out) if you think you don't have enough flow increase very little after engine is started. With the v-drive I have taken it apart twice over the years and was surprised each time there was no buildup in the bronze cooling tube. You can clean the tube without removing the v-drive, disconnect hoses and fittings that will give a straight through the tube. I hope this helps . Allen
Allen & Michelle Willis Owners of S/V Incommunicado. Hull # 18. Have owned her for 20+ years.

SV Hope

Allen, thanks for the tip.

Michael
"HOPE"
Pearson 365 Ketch
1980 Hull #309
Brisbane, Australia.

Jim S

Heat exchangers have scale, sludge and obstructions deposited over time and lose their ability to effectively cool the engine (transmission, oil cooler, v-drive).  The "descaling procedure" involves pumping, with an external pump, the descaling solution through the plumbing system you want descaled.  The engine is not running during the procedure and the raw water pump must be removed to allow the flow.  Engine zincs will be dissolved by most descaling solutions and need to be replaced after the process. In areas where zebra mussels are present, descaling is particularily important.  Water cooled air conditioner and refrigeration systems occasionally need to be cleaned, or descaled.  
Jim S

Randy

Michael,

Go to this website: http://pearson35.com/projects/clean_heatexc.htm

It explains how to flush out using RYDLYME. I did it to my engine about 2 months ago and it works great! Lowered my engine temp 10 degrees. Rydlyme costs $30 US and it takes 1 gallon to do a Westerbeke 40. You dilute 50% with water, so it gives you 2 gallons to flush engine. Takes two hours. It works great.

Cheers,
Randy
S/V Venture

jackjanos

I've use a product called Barnacle Buster from www.trac-online.com  All you do is close the raw water seacock and dump it into your strainer while the engine is running till it starts to come out of the exhaust, then shut down the engine & let it sit overnight.  The next day after you re-open the seacock, and start the engine and you won't believe what comes out of the exhaust, which is all of the junk/scale that was accumulating inside the entire Raw water circuit.
365 Ketch #82 ANTARES<br />Chesapeake Bay

SV Hope

Randy, Jim S & jackjanos, thanks heaps for your advice. To all you folks who pass on your experience with these beautiful boats; Thanks. This is a great forum. I am on a steep learning curve. It is my goal to make sure that everything on my P365 runs smoothly. Do not wish to be in a situation where I paraphrase a line form a well known American movie " Pearson, we have a problem"

Cheers

Michael
"HOPE"
Pearson 365 Ketch
1980 Hull #309
Brisbane, Australia.