Rigging dimensions

[SailonJennings]

Hello All,

I've recently purchased Hull #25 but haven't gotten to the boat yet. That's next week.  In the meantime the PO tells me the shrouds are rusty and he has loosened them to be safe.  Im thinking I will just replace them.  Anyone know the length and diameter of the shrouds for the 367 Cutter?

Best,
Caleb

[SV Alfresco]

Welcome aboard Caleb,

Garner (http://www.sailingseadragon.com) has lots of 367 info and the owners manual on his site. I don't remember seeing any shroud dimensions. I would have a QUALIFIED rigger check everything over including tangs, bolts, and chainplates, and make them to the right dimensions for your boat. Spending a few extra bucks now can save you some major expenses down the road.

Mike

[Dale Tanski]

Caleb,

Please try to keep in mind that one 367 may well have different pin to pin dimensions as well as wire diameters than another 367.  The wire diameters are often changed by the request of the owner and the lengths can vary due to a trim of a rotten mast butt or the installation of a taller replacement mast base.  The best way to replace your standing is to set your turnbuckles to the mid point and carefully measure each one to pin to pin.  Garner should indeed have the original 367's wire diameters.

In addition and for piece of mind, I would check the condition of your mast base.  If you would like, I would be more than willing to quote you new rigging. We typically are very competitive due to our labor rate here in Buffalo, NY.  Many of our customers simply remove and ship their old stuff, and we send them back new.  I also strongly recommend that you develop a good relationship with a good rigger in your area as they see things you never will until it may be too late.  Part of that relationship would include having them make your replacement rigging if they do that end of the business.

Dale Tanski
Maruska
Ketch Hull 40
Obersheimer Sailor Supply

[SailonJennings]

Thanks guys,

Good points made.  I get to the boat in a week and then will be able to look everything over.  If I do end up having to replace the mast base I wonder if using a block of high strength plastic composite like phenolic would work?  My guess is absolutely.  I love using that stuff and black UHMW on boats.

Dale,
As far as ordering from you I will get back to you on that.  I'm bringing a 100' tape measure!

[PeteW]

I made my mast step out of Micarta (Phenolic) using a stock thickness that I was able to purchase precut. The finish cuts were done on a band saw so no milling was required.  I used SS bolts and press in concrete anchors to screw the halves together and then the standard lag bolts to secure it to the keel.  Once I got the mast step fitted and leveled which required some glass work to create a flat surface, my mast was inch and a quarter taller. So much of the standing rigging was now too short. But not to worry. I think that's what they make toggle eyes for.

Pete    365 Ketch, old hull#6

[SailonJennings]

Pete,
Thanks for the reply.
Did you have to lift the entire mast out for this fix or were you able to just loosen or remove stays and lift it up a foot?   Also you mention bolting the two "halves" of he foot together.  I'm trying to picture what your talking about but drawing a blank.
Best,
Caleb

[SailonJennings]

Here's an artist rendition.  I was thinking using the phenolic as a base plug that the mast fits over

[Dale Tanski]

Caleb,
That design would work.  A couple of things to add....
1) There is a extruded track internal to the mast that fits standard sail slugs that the wiring bundle is hooked to.  You will have to make a notch for that.
2) There is a lump behind the external mast groove, make another notch for that.
3) Those two notches should let the rain water out that gets in there.

Dale

[PeteW]

Here a link to my mast step design. Its different from your approach. What drove this design was the lag bolt centers that bolt the step to the keel and the threaded insert for the tensioning rod from the step up through the deck. Dale brings up a good point that you don't know the inside dimensions of the mast so cutting that shoe will be guesswork.

http://www.pearson365.com/forum/index.php?topic=1259.msg6787;topicseen#msg6787

I noticed that there was a mistake in the elevation drawing but hope you get the idea anyway.  Pete

[SVJourney]

Also, think about the tension loading of the mast on the fiberglass above the keel.  If using a plug, I would still have a base plate to spread the mast load over a greater area. 

As for pulling the stick to replace the base, Pete is the only person I know who has replaced the step with the mast in place.  There is a post somewhere on here with pictures of how he did it.  Chances are, if there is corrosion there, you are going to need to saw off the bottom of the mast anyways.  I don't think that would be an easy thing to do with the mast up.

We just bit the bullet, pulled the stick and did wiring and such while it was down.  Also easy to replace rigging when the stick is on a saw horse rather than 45 feet in the air.  Some yards have cranes, some places you have to rent one which gets spendy.  So you might want to shop around for that one.