Changing the oil

[Della and Dave]

We changed the oil yesterday, after reading all of the topics related to that in the forum. All I can say is I hope there is a special level of hell for boat designers where they have to do things like change the oil the way they designed it for all eternity. It took both of us, many bad words, contortions we thought we were too old to manage, and we only managed to get 4 pints or so out. I think we need a way to better seal the pump tube interface with the dipstick tube.  And may I say, putting the dipstick where it is was an act of pure evil genius.

But my real question is this: how the heck do we remove the nasty black carbonaceous stains that are now freaking everywhere on the boat? We tried degreaser, and it removed the oily residue, but the nasty black (now dark grey) stains seem impervious to removal. Any advice will be appreciated.

Della

[Randy]

Della,

The panels under the sink can be removed creating excellent access to the port side of the engine (side with the dip stick). I made the panels easily removable by replacing the screws with studs and nuts. Makes removal very easy.

Randy

[Firefly]

Depending on where the stains are, i have found those white "Magic Erasers" will remove stains from many things ( they are abrasive so do no use on wall paint). They work great around the sail locker doors and other places where my husbands hands are always seeming to be greasy haha.

[Della and Dave]

Thanks for the advice! Randy, is it possible to gain access to the drain plug with the cabinet removed? We'd like to install a banjo fitting but can't see how without removing the engine.
Diana, the magic eraser is a great idea! I've used them at home, but never thought of it for the oil stains. I'll give it a shot and post if it works.

[Randy]

if you remove the panels you can see the drain plug under the engine. I am not sure if you can remove it?? I have never tried.

[Jim Cozy]

Della and Dave- I lengthened and led my dipstick to the forward end of the cockpit locker. I can now check oil frequently and easily. I connect a vacuum style oil change pump(?) and it pulls 4 quarts plus, no sweat, no mess. The dipstick tube is a good fit into 3/8 inch ID fuel hose which I used to splice in 3/8 in. copper sink supply tube. I use a universal long dipstick from NAPA. I like to check oil level before every start for safety and that is impractical with original setup. I am also installing a remote oil filter this spring which will put the filter near the tranny and right-side-up. Good luck with yours. Jim

[Davemurray]

I was able to open the drain plug and let out the oil.  It was very messy and I wouldn't do it again:  you still do not get all the oil out because of the angle of the engine and the placement of the plug.   It was very difficult getting the plug back in place too.  I have a vaccuum pump and I am going to remove the valve cover and see if I can access the back of oil pan from one of the oil gangways on the head.  I plan to measure out the length of tube against the engine first and mark it before I insert the tube down to know that I'm in the pan. 

[SVJourney]

One of the previous owners of Journey installed a ball valve and hose to the oil pan where the plug is.  (I bless him for this, whoever it was)  I can't get pictures to post as it is almost impossible to see, but would be an easy modification if you ever have to have your engine out for any reason.   

The important thing to share here is that I get almost 5 quarts out of the engine when I change oil.  So I'm thinking that the dipstick method is fractional dilution at best.

Wayne