The Great Rewire Project of 2008

[SV THIRD DAY]

Well, after spending close to $5K now on wire, Blue Seas panels for DC, AC, and main switching, and so many $50 items that my head is spinning, it is finally time to start what has been called the Great Pearson Re-Wire Job of 2008!  The as purchased condition of the wiring on THIRD DAY can only be described as an electrical fire just waiting to happen with multiple negative wires twisted and held together with old black electrical tape.  The undersized battery cable runs have exposed wire with ½ the individual strands broken, while the unbroken strands look as green as I felt docking THIRD DAY for the first time!   Below is the DC electrical schematic and an equipment list.  I will post in progress photos of this adventure as the work progresses.





Jack Rabbit Item#  /  Product Name  /  Price  /  Quantity  /  Total   http://www.jrenergy.com

BSP17040  Bussman 187 Circuit Breaker, 60A, Panel Mount  $40.00  1  $40.00  
BSP17043  Bussman 187 Circuit Breaker, 90A, Panel Mount  $40.00  1  $40.00  
 BSB12104  PowerBar, 600A, 4 x 3/8-16 Stud Terminals  $40.00  1  $40.00  
BSB12107  PowerBar, 600A, 8 x 3/8-16 Stud Terminals  $67.50  2  $135.00  
GST24330  Guest Galvanic Isolator, 30A  $155.00  1  $155.00  
BSS16010  m-Series Dual Circuit Battery Switch  $26.50  1  $26.50  
BSP18027  AC Panel, Main + 6 Positions, No Meters, White Toggle Switches  $142.50  1  $142.50  
BSF15118  Class T Fuse 250A  $24.50  2  $49.00  
BSF15002  Class T Fuse Block (225A to 400A)  $42.50  1  $42.50  
BSF5126  ANL Fuse 130A  $10.00  2  $20.00  
BSF15131  ANL Fuse 250A  $10.00  5  $50.00  
BSF15005  ANL Light Fuse Block, 35-300A, With Cover  $16.50  7  $115.50
JTA10175  Iota 75A Battery Charger, 12V  $295.00  1  $295.00  
BSP18071  LPG Control Switch with Solenoid  $90.00  1  $90.00  
BSS18080  DC Parallel Panel with Breaker  $135.00  1  $135.00  
BSP18376  DC Panel, 13 Positions, White Toggles  $250.00  2  $500.00  
FAR33734  Chesapeake Black SS Tachometer, Diesel, 4000 RPM, Mech/Alt, Hourmeter  $145.00  1  $145.00  
XAA31000  Echo~Charge  $91.00  1  $91.00



Ordered from http://www.bestboatwire.com
 
Battery Cable #2 AWG
Cable Color Red  $10.95
Battery Cable #2 AWG
Cable Color Black  $10.95
Battery Cable #0000 AWG
Cable Color Red  $229.68
Battery Cable #0000 AWG
Cable Color Black  $229.68
Battery Cable #00 AWG
Cable Color Red  $298.82
Battery Cable #00 AWG
Cable Color Black  $298.82
Battery Cable #6 AWG
Cable Color Red  $33.60
Battery Cable #6 AWG
Cable Color Black  $33.60
Battery Cable #4 AWG
Cable Color Red  $18.59
Battery Cable #4 AWG
Cable Color Black  $28.60
Brazed Seam Non-Ins. Ring

pkg: 10  $35.40
Brazed Seam Non-Ins. Ring

pkg: 10  $29.48  

1/4" Stud
Pack of 10  $5.48  

1/4" Stud
Pack of 25  $8.75  

1/4" Stud
Pack of 25  $9.50  
3 to 1 High Shrink Ratio
1" Black, 4' length  $12.90
3 to 1 High Shrink Ratio
1" Red, 4' length  $12.90  
3 to 1 High Shrink Ratio
3/4" Red, 4' length  $10.66  
3 to 1 High Shrink Ratio
3/4" Black, 4' length  $10.66


I should say that I've made some changes that were suggested to my drawing when it was reviewed and certified by an electrical engineer, but just haven't had time to update my drawing yet.  I will add that to my list so you can see the changes I made.

[Dale Tanski]

I took a quick look at your electrical distribution system.  One thing I noticed...  You can not isolate you Xantrex inverter.  If your battery switch is on from your house group, your inverter will be on.  Even if you are not using 120vac, the inverter will eat power.  I would suggest installing a Blue Seas 9012 in the circuit so that you can shut down your inverter with a flick of a switch.  Also, with your house batteries off, can your start battery back feed through the Blue Seas parallel panel once again into your inverter?

I also glanced at your list of materials.  The latest standard uses red and yellow for DC.   The thought process is that AC wiring (in the same boat) is black and white, and just looking at a cable run you can discriminate DC vrs AC wiring by the outside jacket if you use red (+) and yellow (-) for the DC side.  They are also using blue jacketed paired wire for DC.  This wire is know as "safety jacket" wire.  Once again, at a glance, you can tell the DC wiring by its blue jacket which contains red/yellow conductors and the AC wiring which is the standard white jacket containing black/white/green conductors.

Dale Tanski

[SV THIRD DAY]

Thanks Dale,

The is a on/off switch installed in the inverter circut to isolate the inverter, it just isn't listed in the drawing.  The Xantrex also comes with a remote on/off switch that also shuts the unit down.

The BLue Seas 8080 as listed below allows for isolation and combination of the starter and house loads.



DC Parallel Panel with Breaker
A battery switch panel using an mini switch to connect the start battery to the engine; a 100A breaker to connect the house batteries to the DC panel; and a keyed mini switch that enables the house and start battery to be cross-connected if needed.

For single-engine gasoline or diesel boats with a house battery bank and start battery.

Product Features

• Ignition protected (meets SAE J1171 requirements)
• Isolates starting circuit from house circuit
• Simplifies battery switch operation
• LED circuit ON indicator lights
• Protects electronics from sags and spikes caused by engine starting
• Discharges batteries independently
• Enables the engine to be started from the house bank if the start battery should be discharged.

Specifications

• Inrush Rating 1,500A
• Cranking Rating 700A
• Intermittent Rating 500A
• Continuous Rating 250A
• Voltage Max 48V DC
• House Circuit Protection 100A



I am familiar with the ABYC standards to use yellow for DC neg, but was not going to pay extra for yellow wire...simple as that!  I also plan on having every wire terminal labled to avoid any confusion.

[SV THIRD DAY]

Update:

To start with, many may reconize this view on the forward port sail locker bulkhead.





The next photos show the beginnings of the new Electrical system.









Second hole cut for 13 position BlueSeas DC Panel


New Propane on/off

[Trinity]

Hi Guys,
Ok - I'm finally ready to tackle the wiring system for my newly installed rebuilt 4-107.  The fuel tank is new and the v-drive is rebuilt.  'Trinity' is in close to original conditional, no extra systems or changes, and I'd like to stay as close to the KISS principle as possible.  Nelson sent me an excellent wiring diagram for the engine and starting system.   I'm looking carefully at the upgraded Delco alternator you describe. Thanks again Nelson!

Any other pictures, advice, warnings, etc are appreciated.  I have a dual-battery bank system with the standard 1-2-All battery switch and a simple guest charger which works great.  I've pulled out the electrasan, and that and the guest charger are the changes to factory state that I can think of right now.
 
Like I said, I'd like to keep things simple, but any strong feelings concerning installs/products that work well - or not - I'd love to hear it.  My primary interest right now is to get the engine running with an organized, reliable electrical wiring system.
Thanks,
Marc