[SOLD] Harken Traveler Risers - $425

[P69]

Harken Traveler Risers (1 Pair)
Likely Harken Part Number: 1849
https://www.harken.com/en/shop/27-mm-midrange/cb-track-riser-set/?srsltid=AfmBOopm2nmHNnwbZhKj7nCoCtktqC9uohW8pJxKnUB3XDT-sJXBLuO2

Came off my 1982 Pearson 367, age unknown, but it was an after-market installation by some previous owner.
I removed it when I moved the traveler to a different location off the coach roof.

More pictures:
https://bodylens.com/ForSale/index.php?album=Harken-Traveler-Risers

Price: $425
Location: Foley, Alabama
Pickup or buyer pays shipping

[trooper26]

Good morning.  We have had our '76 365 for a few months now and are enjoying it.  I was considering upgrading(?) from the weird triangular block main sheet arrangement (is this original?) and these would seem to do the trick.  The coach roof is not an ideal location for mechanical advantage...are there other downsides I am not realizing?  Thanks in advance and also thank you for a kind response to another post of mine re: engine removal this coming winter.  Take care.

[P69]

It's a compromise. We're not going to attach the main sheet to the end of the boom because that would be in the way,  so we compromise between convenience and boom stress.  Aside from the mechanical dis-advantage you mentioned, the only other reason I see for not putting the traveler on the coach roof is whether or not you have or can install adequate backing.  Where is your mainsheet now? Isn't it on the coach roof already with the triangular sheeting you mentioned?

The coach roof of my 1982  367 is a sandwich of 3/16" bottom layer of fiberglass, 3/4" end grain balsa, then the outer 3/16" fiberglass and gelcoat.  Whoever installed these risers on my boat just drilled through the overhead and used a teak backing block with silicone sealant.  There was some water damage to the core in one spot because they didn't seal it correctly, but there was no deformation of the area. So, I think the coach roof is plenty strong enough, as long as you seal the core and use an adequate backing block.

I moved mine not because of any doubts of strength, but because it was in the way of a hard dodger I built, so it's on a tube support "roll bar" (1.25" schedule 40 pipe) that puts the traveler approximately in the original location (fore/aft position). Only difference is that the traveler is not in the cockpit, but above the cockpit at the aft end of the hard dodger, see attached pic.

[trooper26]

Yes, it would be in the same location.  I was just kvetching a bit about it not being ideal.  Thank you for the picture, that is a nice setup.  I will most likely go for the risers, I will let you know in a couple days.  What would the best form of payment be?
If you have a second, what do you recommend as a method for nice sealed holes through the coach roof?  One method I can think of would be to oversize the hole, fill with epoxy, then drill the appropriate size through the epoxy leaving the core unexposed.  I am new to all this so bear with me.  Thanks.

[P69]

Trooper,

Payment?  I'll send you a PM to discuss that when you are ready.

Sealing the holes is relatively easy and can be water-tight if done correctly.

Oversize/backfill as detailed in this HowTo:
https://marinehowto.com/sealing-deck-penetrations-to-prevent-core-rot/   

I deviate from the above steps...

• I try to get at least 1/2" core removed. For example, if your bolt is 3/8", then the total diameter of the excavated core is  1  3/8" (1/2" + 3/8" bolt dia. + 1/2").  The reason I remove that much is if my final holes don't line up with the original center of the oversize drill, I have some fudge factor to shift and still be within the backfilled area.
• I don't drill through the lower layer of fiberglass.  If you drill all the way through, you have to tape over the hole in the overhead and epoxy has a way of leaking past masking tape.
• Our Pearsons have a gap between the liner (the part of the overhead that you see when you are below) and the lower layer of fiberglass.  If this gap is large, the bolt pressure will deform the liner when you tighten the nuts.  You can dry to backfill into that gap, but the epoxy will run down hill through that gap. Usually that gap is nto very big and with wide backing plates, you might never notice the deformation.
• I don't fill with un-thickened epoxy, then suck it out.  I used to do that, but it's tedious and messy. I just use epoxy thicked with cabosil and milled fiber. The cabosil thickens it a bit and the milled fiber gives it weight so it flows into the excavated void.  Make sure you don't thicken it too much; otherwise, air will get trapped.
• If the oversized hole is the same size or slightly bigger than the syringe, you can insert the syringe all the way in, and lift it out as you inject the slurry.

Make sure your oversized holes don't go past the outer perimeter of the fitting you are installing; otherwise you will see that back filled area poking out and it'll look tacky.

Note: the countersinking described in the article is very important.  Do this to the overized hole after you have removed the core because resin (epoxy and polyester) needs tapered edges.  When you drill the final hole, make sure you counter sink that also (see article linked above).

Lastly, use lots of masking tape so you don't have to clean up epoxy slop/runs on your visible surfaces.

[P69]

Sold!