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New Fuel Tank?

Started by jpendoley, March 15, 2020, 08:06:35 PM

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jpendoley

Found a welding shop that builds aluminum rescue craft-beautiful work. Seems a little more attuned to my desire to do it right. Hats off to Pete as I lifted his design-thank you Pete! More tankage and more access to the water pump-what is not to like? The cost that's what +-$1000. But he can get it done in two weeks which is what I was hoping for1/3 the weight of the original tank is nice too.

Sandy

well hats off to you,
at least half of the hard part is making a decision at all in some ways

jpendoley

Its true-the noodling takes more time than the doing and I am hoping it is the last tank I install in my lifetime. I had recommendations for all kinds of approaches-from plating the existing to building it in glass to ordering a plastic tank through the mail. In the end P69s design saved the day. Love this forum and the wealth of experience available to a novice.

P69

JIm,

Make sure you check the tank dimensions to ensure that it will fit between the two forward cockpit supports (those glassed-in 2x4s).
The points I want to point are:
1. fuel fill is in the center and designed for direct fill from cockpit sole. If you run hose from the original fill location on the deck, make sure you can get a fitting or move the fill to the edge/make  it an elbow.  When i replaced the tank, ti was with the engine in and when had the stbd quarter wide one (bulkhead/nav desk removed) and I had to cut (and subsquently reglassed) that long fore/aft stringer that distributes the weight of the tank and engine.

2.  the port that returns fuel from the polishing circuit returns into a tube that loops down and forward a bit. If your tank will include that return, make sure the welder tacks this tube to the tank so it does not vibrate an clank on the tanks sides when fuel is pumped.

3. When you install, angle it slightly to port, so the lowest part is in the port forward corner, where the fuel polish pickup tube will suck up the crap that settles in that lower corner. The bottom panel is not angled athwartship. You have to mount it at an angle down to port.

4.  Some folks like return ports to have tubes extending down into the fluid, to prevent air bubbles from forming when the fuel falls from the top panel (where the ports are) to the fuel level and splashing.  I don't know if it is an issue.

I cant think of anything else.



jpendoley

P69,
I thought of the fuel fill and am keeping the cockpit floor inspection hatch and below deck fill that I have now. No change of water leaking past an "O" ring
I was wondering about the Fore and aft stringers and the squeeze to get the new tank in.-believe it will go in sideways past galley bulkhead  and then twist into position between the fore and aft stringers but will double check tomorrow-worst case I can cut and glass a new section.
I don't really get the return thing, don't have them now-except for the fuel pump return line. The heater has no return and I am not installing a polisher at this time unless someone talks me into it....

Sandy

I thought some one made a plan of the fuel tank sometime?
Actually I think Ive seen 2 over time

Dale Tanski

Sorry, I lost my Autocad drawing for the fuel tank in a computer swap.

DAle
"Maruska"
Pearson 365 Cutter Ketch
1976 Hull #40
Buffalo, N.Y.

P69

Zulu and Dale,

Are these the pics of the other tank y'all are talking about?

I think these came from a thread by someone who made two separate 23 gallon tanks.


Sandy

Dale, P69

Yes I think it was the pair of half tanks shown here
I had them but my HDD collapsed and lost a lot of stuff

thanks for this, it fills in a load of holes in where this is going for me
right now Im operating off a seven gallon tank that was fitted for fuel stove storage 2 years ago
cheers guys