No start!?

[Rudderly Confused]

Hi all. 

I'm having a "no start" problem while recomissioning my Westerbeke 40 (aka 4-108) for the season.  It was running fine at the end of last season.  As part of the lay up I changed the primary and secondary fuel filters, and bled the system to the injector pump using a small in-line 12V pump.  Did not run the engine after bleeding in the fall because the water was already turned off in the yard. Tried to start today, no success.  Primary filter (Racor) is full, secondary filter bled, injector pump bled, and all 4 injectors bled, all flow fuel and no bubbles ... still no start.  Repeated bleeding sequence 3 times, with the in-line pump and the manual lift pump, no start.  Engine turns freely, but won't start.  It was 65 degrees, but I still tried pre-heat button for 30 seconds, Engine turns freely, tries to catch once, but still no start.  Repeated with pre-heat several times, same results.  Tries to catch once, then just spins, no start.

What am I missing?

[DeanA]

Air intake OK?

[PeteW]

Sounds like your stop cable to the injector pump is hung up.  Pete

[SVJourney]

Take of your engine mounted filter and MAKE sure that the o-ring is installed in the engine and not the filter.  If installed on the filter it will block the fuel port on the outside of the filter.

[Rudderly Confused]

For anyone interested, it appears to have been a combination of problems.  The air intake was pretty grungy, so I removed it, cleaned it with brake cleaner, and replaced it.  When starting the bleed process back at the beginning, I found the little O-ring on the Racor T handle wasn't seated right, corrected that.  I bled the injector pump longer, flowing fuel (no bubbles) for about 10 seconds before closing bleed bolt.  Opened all 4 injector bolts at once, closing one at a time while cranking the starter.  When starting to close the third one, the engine started.  Closed the remaining injector bolt, and it ran like a champ.  Mission accomplished!

For future reference, does it matter if the injectors are bled at the intake nut, or the banjo fitting on the return line?  My first try was the banjo fittings, the last was the inlet nuts.

[DeanA]

Nice-list to add to life's experiences. Good to hear she's running. Thanks for letting us know.

[SVJourney]

You should never loosen banjo fittings once they are installed.  The copper washer gaskets top and bottom of the fitting are good for one tightening.  If you have no leaks now, then great you have dodged a bullet. But generally, they are one time use only.

[PeteW]

When I was quoted several bucks each for a copper crush washer from various supply houses including McMaster Carr and  I sensed a copper crush washer conspiracy. I ended up buying a kit of 100 from JC Whitney for $20. I keep them on the boat. I believe Summit racing has kits also. Cant remember if I bought inch or metric. My Westerbeke motor was built by Mitsubishi  so I'm thinking metric. Can't speak for the four most of you all have.