Walter RV10s V-drive - Does anybody have info/literature on this variation?

[stwagstaff]

Does anyone have mechanical drawing, or even photos, of a Walter RV-10S V-drive? I have found the ones of the RV10D and the RV10D "Pearson Special," but nothing about this particular unit.

[PeteW]

The parts drawing for the RV-10 and RV-D and S also I presume, show them to have the same internal parts and P/N's.

I've have been in contact with a guy on craigslist up in Seattle that sent me pictures of  his RV-10S.  Doesn't seem to be much different than the RV-10D. Bolts to a pargon instead of a velvet drive from what I can tell from the pictures of his motor. I was going to make him an offer to part it out. I don't want the main housing or the angle housing. None of its of any use for an RV-10. Don't want to pay freight for that stuff either.

I just want the 2:1 gears, pinion shaft and the double cardan. The rest of it is scrap as far as a the Pearson RV-10 is concerned.  I already have very clean spare set of RV10 castings  with S/N. So those are the parts I need. to build up a complete RV-10. I have a spare clean output shaft no pitting on the seal surface and good threads.

Pete

[stwagstaff]

Hi Pete,

So, another question. I have disassembled the drive, as far as the bolt-on covers. The angle housing separates, but doesn't come away from the main housing. With some gentle prying, it came off some, but won't come away. Don't know what I need to do to pull this off. I have a machinist who will press the bearings out when I can make room,, but I don't want to destroy anything in the process.

Also, there's a fancy nut on the back, with four notches and a lock washer that's shaped like, I guess you'd call it a "basket". How does that nut come off? I don't have a tool that is meant to match that nut. Like the angle housing, he didn't want to touch it for fear of destroying something. Don't know if it's threaded on, but that's my guess.

My goal is to completely break the thing down and see what I have to work with when I'm done. I sure would be interested in your spare drive if I can round out the missing parts.

Thanks,
Sean

[PeteW]

Here's how the RV-10 comes apart. Parts are laid out in the correct order and orientation.



The picture shows the tools I used for disassembly. Primarily you will need and assortment of different sized drifts (sockets work) and punches. The tool of choice for disassembly is the sledge hammer (shown upper left). Properly size your drift for the shaft or race you are removing and whack squarely with the sledge. Its anything but gentle. The shaft or bearing race will move on the first blow unless something is wrong. 3 or 4 hard whacks will get it apart.

Drift the self aligning bearing out of the angle housing once the nuts are off. Size your drift to the outer race. I actually have a socket that big. If you start pounding on the inner race you will ruin the bearing. You will then remove the allen bolts from the adapter plate to drift the pinion shaft out.

If you have a spanner wrench you may be able get the nut off the output shaft. Otherwise you can use a drift. Don't use a chisel you will ruin the nut. (I replace this nut with new on a rebuild anyhow) If you hit the threads on the output shaft with anything the shaft is toast.

You will need a bearing crusher and puller to get the tapered bearing off the yoke of the double cadan u joint. (shown bottom).

Takes me about 20 minutes to tear an RV-10 down. Its not hard if you have the right tools and know exactly where to hit it with the sledge hammer.

Pete

[stwagstaff]

Thanks to PeteW, I've managed to disassemble my RV10 - all but pressing out the bearings on the two main shafts. Overall, the interior components are  in shockingly good shape, given how worn out the exterior looks and how much rust came out with the oil. I can't even make out where all the rust came from l, though I have to assume it was mostly from the bearings.

With a wiggle test, the pinion gear has a small amount of lash inside the small gear. It seems acceptable, but I'm going to find a way to measure it.  I know there has to be *some* wiggle room for the gears not to bind, but how much lash  is too much? By eye, I'd estimate it between 1 and 3 degrees.

Given what I've found - not nearly as bad as I expected - I'm leaning toward having the drive rebuilt.