Transmission Engine / V-drive

[Steph98]

Hi,

The transmission between the engine and the V-Drive is in poor condition and can't be rebuilt. I need to change it. I live in New Caledonia and I don't find any torque tube. Someone has said to me I can find it for the cars. Have you an address or an internet site where I can find it?

Thanks a lot.

Stéphane

[Dale Tanski]

Stephane,

The driveshaft that goes between the transmission output and the input of the V-Drive was made by Walter, the same people that make the V-drive.  The link to them is -

http://www.waltergear.com/

Hope this helps...

Dale

[PeteW]

Stephane,

Please provide a little more information. We would all like to help you out. When you say transmission I think you are talking about your gearbox (noun). But maybe you are using transmission describe the operation of the drive shaft (verb) .

Also we need to know what mean by poor condition.  If you are experiencing noise or vibration especially at low RPM your problem may be with the damper plate that connects the motor to the gearbox. A bad damper plate will sound like  a problem with the drive shaft.

Pete

[Steph98]

Hi,

Thank you Dale for the website. I have sent them a mail.
Saddened for my English not perfect.
I have bought a new engine, Westerbeke 44C. The driveshaft between the engine and the V-drive was rusty and had a big hole. The mechanic has kept the extremity (side V-drive) and has made a new driveshaft with a coupling flector (photos). But with that system I couldn't accelerate more than 1800 rpm. At that speed the coupling don't stay in the axis.
And last week for my first sail test since 4 years, I have done a mistake in the marina with the two engine's control and the coupling was out of order...
What appear for me like the only solution is to find a driveshaft like the original.
Thanks for your helps.

Regards.

Stéphane

Ps: I try photos in a next post

[Steph98]

Hi,

The photos don't pass... Nevertheless they are very small. It doesn't matter.

The company Walter Machine has sent me an answer:

Thank you for your email.  Generally you can replace the 1" diameter splined shaft (#27 shaft, $115) which goes into the V-Drive as well as the universal joint on the opposite end of the tubular shaft ( $36.00).
If you need the entire tubular shaft, approximate cost is $2,400.00.
Sincerely,

For them it is not essential to put the same tubular shaft that at the origin.
What do you think about that?

Regards

Stéphane

[PeteW]

I need the same part because it is missing from my boat. I was quoted $1800 from Walter. I have a the #27 shaft. Seems that a local drive shaft shop could build a replacement for much less than that. U-joint at one end, rigid shaft adapter at the other. A shop in Australia for sure you would think. Much closer.

Are you sure something is not wrong with your V-drive input bearing?

Pete

[Steph98]

Hi,

The V-drive has just been restored. I have made make a tubular shaft here, but what I would like is a tubular shaft like the original. It is with an outside tube, an internal tube and silent blocs or rubber bing between the two tubes. It is for a torque mechanical cushioning.
But I'm not sure that Walter do these 2 tubes.
Maybe on others Pearson 365 it wasn't that system?
This system had a reason for being, then with the new engine I would like to restart sailing with something good.
It's to "protect" the V-drive.
Or maybe it isn't essential...?

Regards

Stéphane

[Steph98]

The photo with the coupling shaft after I have passed in forward gear without lowering the speed. I'm going to put a single lever of control.
But with that shaft I couldn't go faster than 1800 rpm. That flexible coupling is good if the shaft is not also heavy. Another solution is to put a shaft bearing, but I shall like keeping a shaft the simplest possible.
With the mechanic we are going to keep that rigid shaft without the flexible coupling. In the 70s, by putting the double tube with silent block, they thought maybe "what can do the big things, can do the little things as well".
What do you think about that? Have you a rigid shaft?

Stéphane

[PeteW]

Stephane,

Here is a  link to the v-drive installation and alignment procedure.

http://www.dublerfamily.com/Regina_oceani/Manuals/Drive%20Train%20and%20Fuel%20System/V-Drive/Walter%20V-Drive%20Installation%20and%20Service%20Manual.PDF

I believe your biggest problem is misalignment. To overcome that you installed a rubber coupler. Because of this you have an unsupported universal joint flange. I can only imagine how bad the vibration is and how much damage you may be doing to the v drive. Your drive shaft is spinning eccentrically. You need to attach the u- joint to the transmission with a solid spool adapter with correct bolt pattern and pilot hole dimensions.

In summary , You need to remove the rubber damper and correct the alignment of the motor. This may be a big job because your engine and velvet drive appear to be too high. I sense this because in your picture you have cut out a section of the sole to clear the shaft.

There are recent postings on this site that show what fiberglass cross brace has to be cut to allow a velvet drive 71C to be dropped down low enough to achieve shaft alignment with the v-drive.

The rigid shaft needs to be at a 15 degree angle to the prop shaft within plus or minus 1.5 degrees. More than that and you damage the v-drive. You align the motor to this shaft. You cannot align the shaft to the motor. It's position is fixed. And the gearbox flange need to be perpendicular to the drive shaft. So you may need to not only lower the motor but it to must have the same slope as the drive shaft. Use an inclinometer.

So my suggestion is remove the rubber coupler, find the correct spool adapter, realign the motor and gear box per the instructions. If you do this it will run smoothly to 3600 rpm with the rigid shaft. 

Pete 

[Steph98]

Hi Pete,

Thanks a lot for your help. I am going to verify the 15 degree angle between both shafts. My engine is aligned, maybe not perfectly, but there was no vibration in V-Drive. To modify the engine bed I had first cut out a section of the sole to clear the shaft and see its amplitude angle to determine approximately the middle (plan below). Then, helped by a mechanic, he made a false shaft which fixed on the V-Drive. He used a set of thickness gauge for the alignment.
With the rigid shaft I am anyway going to re-verify the alignment.
Thank you for the link to the V-drive installation. I have asked Walter Machine 2 times to have a technical description of the V-drive and they send me nothing.

Stephane

[Bev & Billy on Sta-sea-dawn]

Off topic....
Morning....has anyone replaced the paragon with a Hurth?
I have a W40 with a paragon transmission.  I am trying to replace my Paragon with a Hurth.  Do you know which Hurth will match up with the Westerbeke 4-108 40 HP?  I can not find parts for the paragon in central Florida or I would rebuild it...Billy

[INCOMMUNICADO]

Bill, You might like to look at Borg Warner Velvet Drive. They are very good tranny that will last for many years parts are easy to find,will mount to your 4-107.I installed one in my boat over 22 years ago,still no problems with it.Hope this helps . Allen

[Bev & Billy on Sta-sea-dawn]

Thanks.....Can you detail the numbers or type of the Borg Warner?  I have a 4-108 with the paragon tranny.  I have been told that Hurth bought Paragon....but I can not find parts.

[INCOMMUNICADO]

Billy,Here is the modle # on mine 10-04-065  904.At the time my transmision died I was in the keys.So I called a friend that ran Tradewinds which have 4 or 5 Perkins Dealerships in Florida,he sent a truck with all the parts to a repair shop in Key West. The shop in Key West had an old case they cleaned and sandblasted ,painted installed all new parts.I to have a 4-108. Good Luck Allen