Pearson 365 and 367

Oh man. When you said hero, I remembered another comment about the toe rail (maybe from you). I actually did that on the hook in the Bahamas.

Only had two issues. First was fiberglass wasn't happy being stored in such a high humidity environment for a couple of years.
Second was one of the tracks still tried to straighten out upon removal, and punctured one of the SUPs.

Quote from: SVJourney on June 14, 2024, 09:07:58 AMHeyya,  good to hear from you.
That is indeed a hero's laundry list of things to do.  Esp in Indiantown in the middle of summer!  Hope it all works out well for you.

How've you two been? Last I remember, you were shopping for a new sailboat after trawlering around for a bit.

Heyya,  good to hear from you.
That is indeed a hero's laundry list of things to do.  Esp in Indiantown in the middle of summer!  Hope it all works out well for you.

Whew! It's been a hot minute, and I think I owe you all an update. It's been 4 years, and we haven't stopped floating. Up and down the East coast of Florida, and a full year in the Bahamas (with a quick flight for a visa extension).

We're now in Indiantown Marina, hauled out, with work progressing. We broke a chainplate during an accidental jibe (rig stayed up), sheared off the bolts between the propshaft and the v-drive, with a ridiculous fix to get us limping, adding starlink showed how inadequate my solar was (and how limiting my dodger and bimini are for adding more). So a new hardtop bimini and dodger to host more solar, davits to give us back our deck space, and an arch for even more. Stepping the masts, and replacing the main mast step, putting a wind generator on the mizzen, and putting actual mast steps on both.

Original fuel tank is leaking after some of the weather we've been through, so I'm getting a new aluminum one fabricated, and I'm leaning towards doing a 35 gallon with a 15 gallon day tank and polishing system. Haven't had issues with bad diesel yet, but we're pretty paranoid about that. Discovered that leak trying to track down some oil leaking from the engine. It's near the timing cover. She has still started every time without fail, so I'm doing everything I can to keep her going without repowering.

I did want to share one additional thing. Since I had to damage my v-drive rigging it up to keep limping along, I sent it in to Walter (they are still around, and still back their stuff), and the response I got was so hilariously passive aggressive proud. I've attached it.

I never did update this thread, but I put in a Lasdrop Gen 2 and really like it.  I have the seal just vented.  Even though at our speeds the mfr doesn't require cooling, I intend to hook it up to the raw water circuit for lube and cooling as I work on the raw water circuit.

I've only got a short amount of motoring time on it, but I am pleased so far.  We'll have to see how it performs when I really get a chance to put some hours on it motoring.

Cheers and thank you to all that replied.

The stuff has been riding around in my vehicle. I will try tomorrow to get it up here.  We are in the height of launch season. 
Dale

Also interested.

You might consider Reef Rite in New Zealand.  I bought one several months ago (model: 9/70) and the price was about the same as those mentioned, even with import duties/fees, which were about $300 or $400 (about 1/3 was actual duty and 2/3 fees charged by import brokers).  The then exchange rate between NZD and USD was good for me, so that helped equalize the value.  I chose Reef Rite because of the "kiwi slides" and the pawl in the drum that take the load off the furling line. I have not installed it yet, but close examination shows that it's well designed and built.


https://reefrite.co.nz/marine/head-sail-furler/head-sail-furler-prices/

The hull/deck joint is held together with the genoa track bolts, #14 flat head sheet metal screws, and some kind of caulking that is very likely no longer flexible.  I removed the teak, all fasteners, then fiber glassed the inside (epoxy resin) and outside (polyester resin).  I had numerous untraceable leaks and that was the only way I knew how to stop the leaks.  I also put all the mooring cleats on the toe rail and eliminated chafe associated with chocks.

Interior is 3 or 4 layers of 1708 with epoxy resin. On the exterior, I sanded the sheer stripe off the first 4" down and sanded the  gelcoat off the deck-side the first 4" down so the bond is with fiberglass, not gelcoat.  Laid in about 3 layers of mat with polyester resin. Once cured, I through bolted with 5/16" flathead machine screws, then glassed over the top of them with 3 layers of CSM using vinyl ester resin.  Bolts are set in Sika 291 to seal them. Two or 3 more layers of mat over the bolts to finish.  I used polyester outside because I gel coated the toe rail/deck and gelcoat doesn't work stick to /cure with epoxy.  Now, the hull/deck joint does not leak and is strong.


Regarding the bump rail.  I needed it, you might not.  I installed a rub rail from Duramax.  Duramax 100 series Tapered D-shape/Key bore, DB-50

https://www.duramaxmarine.com/pdf/DockBumperPG-100.pdf

It's held to the hull with 1/4" through bolts about every 12" with butyl tape as a sealant. I designed the bolting pattern so I could get to them in the future without removing cabinets.  Thirty foot piece on each side, starting about 2' forward of the transom and ending about 3' from the bow. I used black because I wanted continuous pieces and black is the only color with continuous (up to 60' long). I got a 60' piece and cut it in two.

Hi,

I saw this discussion already but given its age and a slightly different question, am posting a new thread.

1. Finishing the edge:

We decided to remove our teak rail given its poor condition and the cost of fixing it.

We don't think we need to glass the deck-to-hull joint because it seems strong enough but we do want to make the edge look finished. I see a lot of threads about glassing the edge (including the prior discussion). However, an expert in the marina is recommending we just epoxy and fair it - no need to glass.

Has anyone done just the epoxy/fairing finish, rather than glassing the edge? Curious if it worked well or any concerns?

2. bump rail?
Additionally, the teak rail served as a bump rail. Do we need one? Any recommendations about bump rail replacements?

Thanks in advance for your advice!

What about CDI? Any experience or thoughts on those?