Pearson 365 and 367

Oh gosh, thank you so much.  I am hoping I can tighten it up from the top and the bolts aren't too messed up, and cleaning the area for filler (I'm just going to use waterproof fiberglass bondo) is the most annoying part of the job. 

Some older threads that may help you. Most have pics to help you.

https://pearson365.com/forum/index.php?topic=786.msg3699#msg3699

https://pearson365.com/forum/index.php?topic=1429.msg7794#msg7794

https://pearson365.com/forum/index.php?topic=1664.msg8777#msg8777

https://pearson365.com/forum/index.php?topic=893.msg4309#msg4309

Hauled out and blocked my boat without incident today.  Good news - everything except for the strut seems to be in ok condition!  Bad news - the strut is not.  No, its not from improper haul out - the sling stayed half on the rudder skeg, half on the hull, and it was blocked properly at the fore 1/3 of the keel.

I had a slight vibration on the propshaft visible from my cabin and I always thought it was the shaft bearing. 

turns out, the strut itself is loose.  I can wiggle it around with about an half of movement at the very bottom  (prop tip).  From what I understand, the strut is bolted into the grounding plate under the engine.  There was no fairing compound left in the cavity. 

The bolts seem to be badly corroded and bonded to the strut.  I can't even see where the heads are.  I think I made out a flat head slot on the bolt head.

Could you tell me more about how its installed?  Is the grounding plate threaded?  Is it accessible without removing the engine?  Do I need to cut it off and pull out the studs from the engine side?  Is there a way to bypass the bolts and secure the strut sufficiently without messing with the bolts? 

thank you!

Surprised no one's replied! Anywhere beneath the front 2/3 beneath the keel is fine. Almost 3/4--you can tap and see where it goes from hollow to solid.

Update - it was just jammed forward due to old oil full of clutch sludge.  I unjammed it by tapping the shift lever (at the transmission) lightly with a rubber mallet then pulling it hard by my hand.  Then did an oil change, adjusted it a bit and its been working flawlessly. 

Hi,
I did a search and I couldn't find an answer.  I've heard about boat yards putting keel blocks in the incorrect spot on the keel, aft near where the bilge is where its the weakest.  This causing the fiberglass on the hull in the affected area to weaken, later leading to oil-canning. 

I was wondering what is the proper placement of the keel blocks then?  Should the boat be tilted forward with a flat block near the front of the keel?  Or a different arrangement?

Thanks in advance. 

found company which sells running rigging sets..in their pricing documents are measurements.. there're other pearson models..

Here's the link for the manual but it  isn't a very good one:  https://pearson365.com/forum/index.php?topic=1938.0

Just 4 bolts to remove the trans cover on top.  Check for shift fork movement inside.  Ensure good oil level  Prolly not an adjustment issue I don't think, but here's another thread with adjustment procedure: https://pearson365.com/forum/index.php?topic=2105.msg10886#msg10886

Good luck!

I recently delivered a new-to-me P365 back closer to my home waters in the Chesapeake bay.  We had a 150nm offshore passage down the jersey coast.  About 110nm of that was under motor-sail. 

During the cruise, among other things, the transmission stopped getting out of foward.  No neutral or reverse.  Full range of motion at the pedestal lever.  The shifter linkage arm at the transmission was moving when the pedestal lever was moving.  I don't think the clamp at the shifter nub is slipping. 

I am 2 hours away from the boat and I'm unable to go check it, but what are some places that I can start looking to diagnose the issue?  Is there a manual with adjustment procedures?  I don't have the model number off the top of my head, but it appears to be a SOAD transmission.  Sorry for the low-res pic and thank you in advance.