Pearson 365 and 367

Hi Michael, Check with parts4engines.com, they are in the UK. specialized in old Perkins. The prices are a lot lower than in the USA, paying probably easily for the freight. I use them so far successfully.
Good luck,
John

Hi Al,

Basically it is easy, as long as you go straight up avoiding the bulkhead. However, make sure the mast is not "frozen" into the foot. Soak it well with WD 40. Hope it helps. I had to undo the bolts of the foot, lift the mast a meter and hit the foot of with a serious hammer. Re-stepping the mast is a matter of having the foot on the right place and make sure it comes down vertically, not scratching the bulkhead or mast itself.

Good luck,

John

Hello Rocky, choose the right season and you'll enjoy it. Crossing the ocean is not a big deal then and slightly boring. Tilikum is mostly standard as when we bought her new in 1980. Came from the USA. Been up and down the Med and Biscay between Holland and Turkey twice, including force 8 in Biscay. She handles nice! For your info. Have a proper sea anchor and you need at least 200 feet anchor chain of 8 mm. If you cannot weigh anchor with a manual winch anymore you might be getting old for the job (I'm 70). We are in the Red Sea at the moment, going North here is nastier than the Atlantic.
Have fun.
John

Hi Guys,

I fitted an "outboard engine rubber fuel squeze ball" between the tank and the first filter. This  is cheap and makes priming very easy.

John

Tilikum is 1979 nr. 256

Tank started leaking seven years ago very very slightly. Replaced here in Turkey by a exact copy plastic one four years ago, with an inspection hatch on top.
Good luck,
John

Thanks Garner,
All works from the oil pressure switch correctly. As our Tilikum's engine is a 1978 model, we have the old meter and alternator.
Before the outside diode I have, depending on the revs, about 15 volts and after the diode nil. Besides the diode there must be a resistor somewhere to get the voltage down, or is this part of the "kit diode"?
The diode was connected on the alternator outlet as the red wire to the regulator and the brown wire to the tach meter on the body of the diode, is that correct?
Can I still find these service bulletins somewhere on the net?
Thanks and best regards,
John

Hello all,
My tachometer died a natural death. Bought a new one and cannot get it working.
Replaced the resistor (named kit)  at the output of the alternator (bypassing the regulator) and connected the tachometer with it's brown cable to the other side of the resistor. (The resistor is not connected to the alternator.)
Before the resistor I have up to 15 volts and at the the other side less than one volt.
What am I doing wrong, do I need a different sensor or is the value of the resistor not right. The supplier does not have an intelligent answer.
Thanks,
John,
"Tilikum" (Alanya, Turkey)

I had a hole cut in the cockpit sole with a jigsaw by a pro carpenter. Rhough the gap we whipped the tank out and the same size plastic tank in. It is not as bad as it seems. The idea came from one of the members and pictures were on this site, plus a description in good English how to do it. The cut out piece has been bolted back on. It all looks nice. The new tank has a proper inspection hole/hatch so I can clean the tank easily. The whole adventure cost me sevenhundredfifty Euro here in Turkey.
Good luck,
John (Tilikum)

John SLOT
s.y. TILIKUM
P365 / 256
First owner

Still looking forward to be able to place an order (shipped to The Netherlands) and for use in our present cruising area the Egean Sea.

Brgs

John

Hello Angel,

I own nr 256 since she was launced in 1979 and  she does, when clean, 5.9 knots on 2000 revs. Your tachomtr may be incorrect, a slipping coupling is eaily cheched when moored a max thrust gives quite a wash.

Brgs

John