Pearson 365 and 367

Currently at $305. Check out the rust on the driveline, impressive!
Dale

Wow, what a bummer. The original blocks were made by Schaefer. Not looking at mine directly, I would guess #5 or perhaps #7 series.  They are indeed robust and match the look of the boat. 

This will not be a low cost project if you buy new by any measure. I would stick with Schaefer as they will last forever.  Harken are a lower resistance ball bearing block but that is not really required on this application as you only pull in a foot or so of line and then release. Ebay maybe as source for replacements.  In my mind "used" blocks for a 40 plus year old boat is more than acceptable.

If you would like a quote on new set ups just let me know, I would be more than glad to sell them to you.

Dale Tanski
Maruska
Buffalo, New York
 

Check Sailrite, they will have them.
Dale

The stuff has been riding around in my vehicle. I will try tomorrow to get it up here.  We are in the height of launch season. 
Dale

Ok, We are drying out the note books as they were wet.  Give me a bit and I can hopefully shoot and post an image of it.
Dale

Mike,
The 4 hour thing is a positive trust me. 
1) It forces you to be productive and organized. To do so you need to keep a notebook of what you need, what you are going to do, where you are getting materials, dimensions etc.. You will find the ride home very productive as well.  It is thinking time.  Write it down.  Take lots of pictures.
2) When you are at the boat there are no distractions.  You are not going home to cut the lawn. You are not going home for a party.  If someone needs help they just have to wait. You work until you are over hungry and then eat.  If you wake up in the middle of the night do something. No TV, no distractions.
3) You must always have a plan A, B & C.  If you were going to do A and it rains, you do B.  If an item doesn't fit you do C and so forth.

I drove 6 hrs to our boat every other weekend for a total of 31 visits.  I would get there at about 2:30 Am on Saturday morning and leave at around 4Pm on Sunday afternoon.  I had heat as many times it was in the 20's when I arrived on the boat.  I had more trouble working in hotter temperature than cold. The marina had showers and a head.  Food was in walking distance and I knew of every home improvement store, hardware and marine outlet within a half hour. 

I too inherited a full holding tank.  Getting that out was indeed a challenge.  Everything was replaced or repaired but my boat was missing the majority of the port side interior from the forward bulkhead to the transom to make things more interesting.  While I was down at the boat I made yard buddies if I needed help lifting something onboard.  That cost me time however as I was asked to advice and help on a regular basis. I even rebuilt on guys Pacific Seacrafts Orion 27 bow sprit from scratch.

There should still be pictures of my V-drive in pieces on this sight.  My boat sank in the slip bow down and water also got in the V-Drive.  The bearings and seals were standard issue but the universal joint located inside to a bit to find. A doable project if you know wrenches and an hydraulic press. 

The disappearing engine coolant thing is symptomatic of a bad headgasket.  That typically is a motor pull but that's Ok cause that leads you to the fuel tank the EZ way and that is a known issue on a 365.

Hurricanes I can't help you with.  I would never live south because of the heat, snakes and the hurricanes.  I tell people all the time that take on big projects. Its is one step at a time.  You eat and elephant one bite at a time and that is how you finish a big project.  Make a list.  Make several lists but set priorities and work on those first. NEVER look at the entirety of the project or you will end up like 90% of people that buy project boats, overwhelmed and five years in and further behind than when you started. 

Everything takes longer than you think. So what.  What is the hurry? enjoy the journey. Just like when sailing, the most dangerous thing on a boat is a schedule.  I couldn't afford the boat when I bought it but made it happen.  EBay was a huge help.  The boat was 40 years old so what's wrong with a good used part?  I didn't have the time to work on it, but made it happen.  Everybody has the same time as everyone else, they just waste it. Most people wait for a Saturday or hours of time. In reality things get done 20 minutes here and 20 minutes there.  Most people talk themselves out of those 20 minutes cause it "isn't enough time".  Collect materials on you way home. Try not to make special trips especially when at the boat.  That is a time suck for sure.  We live in a third world country today.  Nobody seems to have anything. Plan way ahead. 

Vary your tasks. Work on this for a bit then go do something else.  Boats are unusual because many times you are scrunched in to a small awkward space.  Many a time I walked around the yard looking like I needed a wheel chair cause my legs were numb and my back was twisted. Just wait until you have to get up forward in your anchor locker. Keep asking yourself, is what I am doing value added? I have seen people worry about the right shade of contact paper for a shelf when nothing on the boat works electrically.  Don't be afraid to walk away from something.  Your mind is a wonderful thing. Your subconscious will solve a problem on its own while you work on something else. 

Boats are rarely finished after they are floating.  Don't fall for that trap.  I still have items 10 years after just because I launched.  Once floating you want to sail it.  Its the same as a kid... homework or baseball.  Short term wins every time. 

Use this forum.  The people here hold a universe of knowledge. Don't be afraid to ask.  My last piece of advice is "do something even if it is wrong".  This is something my father always said.  If you aren't moving you will never get there. Showing up is 80%. Its not a job, its a passion!
Dale

When I got our boat one of the first things I had to do is pull the engine.  To accomplish this I fabricated a U-shaped bar that was used to lift he engine with the main boom and slide it back, up, and out of the boat.  We recently had a water softener fail and a subsequent water issue and ran across my refit notes. Included in this notebook was a sketch of that lifter if anyone is interested.
Dale

Welcome aboard!
The tension rod attaches to the mast base and goes to up through the deck and into the collar around the mast.
As for the port lights, I have yet to find better than the NFM's.  They are all 316 Stainless cast with robust locking dogs. They also have no external fasteners showing and the clamp pressure for the hinges can be adjusted to hold them open.  I know many of the owners with 365's have gone this way and I am confident that none of them are regretful.  Yes they are relatively expensive, but well worth the money.  Do one or a set at a time to ease dollar outlay. 
As far as the deck hatches, I changed out the plexiglass and installed tempered glass.  The glass never crazes and is less scratch resistant.  Mine are around 15 years old and look new.  I went with a solar green tint.
Keep us informed and good sailing....
Dale

I have never sailed on a boat where the winches were too big. 
If you think your winches are undersize just wait 5 years.
You are only going to do this once... so do it right.
Go big or go home.
Dale

In my opinion Furlex is a great furler.  That being said there are many great furlers out there so one has to look above and beyond just the product.  In the case of Furlex (owned by Seldon Spars) finding parts for a Seldon can be an issue.  We have customed machined Seldon gooseneck parts because Seldon no longer lists them. 

We had a transient customer just last year that damaged the lower section of their Furlex while in the Erie Canal.  They contacted Furlex (in France).  Furlex said sure no problem but you must buy through a Furlex dealer so they contacted us as we were going to restep their mast after the canal.  We contacted Furlex and got the rest of the story.  Sure, no problem getting a replacement section but there were none in stock, it was 6 weeks minimum and $1200 for the part and the shipping.  I ended up saving their summer and extended vacation after spending hours straightening the damaged section.  Had the damage been worse they were done.

We have repaired Harken units that are 30 years old.  Parts were discontinued but there are enough of them around that something can be done.  We just sold a foil section for a unit this past Saturday.  The unit has been out of production for over 20 years and parts are scarce but we had used parts. 

Obtaining parts from half way around the world in normal times is difficult, obtaining parts today is far worse.  UK companies do not retain parts the same way companies over here do.  The laws are different.  Here they are required to have replacement parts for 10 years after the items is no longer made.  In the UK not so much.  Lewmar is one such case.  Great product but try and find a replacement part after the production date is finished.  What they do is collect all the spare parts, put the stuff together and sell them off.  Nothing left in the parts bin. 

If you are going to hang onto the boat for a while think longer term.  What is a season worth to you because you can not buy parts.  We have another customer that needed a transmission for a Yanmar.  Yanmar didn't have any.  They scoured high and low looking for a dealer that possibly had on on their shelf.  They ended up ordering one from Yanmar and 20 or so weeks latter it arrived but did not match.  They are on season number two lost because they can't buy a transmission, can't get the parts for a rebuild and a complete new replacement engine and transmission is another year out. 

Even with brand new stuff like say a KIA.  So many stolen that you cant get replacement parts. A product is more than just what is in the box and what it costs.  Too many companies just don't care after the sale. 

Dale 

My boat has that little recessed panel.  I moved the engine shut off pull to under the rear cockpit lid and put the START button in that hole.  The inner holes, (Start & Preheat) I installed a water temp gauge as I eliminated the Westerbeke panel altogether.  The tack was shot and the gauges were crappy looking.
Those rubber button covers are I believe a MARINCO part and are still available.  If you want I can check and let you know what they cost.
Dale

Yes there are places in the keel that will sound hollow.  The keel is encapsulated, meaning the keel ballast is lowered into the fiberglass keel cavity and then glassed into place over top to secure it.  There is no need for keel bolts as the ballast is placed into the hull form... encapsulated. 

The advantages are there are no keel bolts to corrode or tear out during a grounding.  The ballast lead is not exposed to the water where often impurities in the lead will often corrode. The lead does need to be faired and the fairing maintained.  There is no keel to bilge joint that often leaks over time.
I am not sure where the water came from in your boat.  Condensation is a good thought.  I am not sure how you would insert epoxy to fill the voids unless you drilled and tapped some grease zerk fittings into the fiberglass at the hollow spots and pumped in thickened epoxy with a grease gun. The issue would be if something goes in something has to go out (vent).

I look at it this way, it was designed and built that way and has been that way for over 40 years.  Unless the trapped water froze and there was no where for it to go there shouldn't be a problem.

Dale

We pulled Maruska Saturday.  I finagled to be the last boat out of the marina for the season.  I would have stayed in longer but the docks had to come out.  Although we did not sail her all that much I spent 3 to 5 nights aboard a week since it went in on the 2nd week of August, especially the colder and snottier it got as that is my favorite. In my bunk, a good book, some background music with the heat on toasty.
I did get the majority of the trailer rust treated and painted this summer.  Top is done except for the red/white striped area. Next year I will flip the trailer over and do the underside to keep it from dissolving.
I also redid the bottom this year.  Took it down to the gelcoat, barrier coated it and topped it off with VC17.  It has a faster bottom than many of the "race" boats in our area.

Tom,
Sorry for the delay.  I have been in Charleston SC, Savana Ga, and then a separate excursion to Lake Lanier in GA.  It is also haul out season and we are taking down masts and helping pull boats.
To my best recollection the log hose is 2-1/4" ID but the only way to tell is yank the old hose off and measure it. 
I do indeed have an opinion on dripless shaft seals.  For salt water they are worth it and more of a necessity.  Fresh water not so much.  What I don't like about them is when they fail the fail without warning and there is nothing that can stem the tide so to speak.  $5 worth of packing and you are good to go with a standard log, with a dripless you have to pull the boat.
Dale

If you weren't so ambitious you wouldn't have all these problems!  Looks great and the end is near. Don't cut any corners, see yourself it through. 
I have been sanding a Melges 24 hull for a repaint. Somebody put awlgrip below the waterline over barrier coat that was over two separate layers of bottom paints.   Yup, it was losing adhesion and chunking off.  Currently over 12 hours of sanding starting with #36 up to #150.  I even air filed trying to smooth out what looks like a aggressive sanding disk hack on a drill motor.  But... the new primer is now on.
Good luck
Dale