Pearson 365 and 367

Thanks for all info.  However, I did find that the old tanks CAN be refilled in the US under an Exemption. Attached is a copy of the Exemption info.  I presented this to my local propane dealer and they gladly refilled my old tank.

Jack

The propane tanks, at least on the early 365's are the Horizontal-type tanks.  The problem is that these tanks do not come with an OPD (Overfilling Protection Device).  There is an NFPA code that states that there is an EXEMPTION No.2 which states "Cylinders manufactured prior to October 1, 1998 and designed for use in a horizontal position for which an overfilling prevention device is not available.  Such cylinders shall have a label to indicate that they are not equipped with an overfilling prevention device."

This label shall be as follows:

THIS HORIZONTAL PROPANE TANK IS NOT EQUIPPED WITH AN OVERFILLING PROTECTION DEVICE Reference: NFPA 58: LP Gas Code; Page #12 Ch.2 Pgh. 2.3.1.5 (d) Exemption No.2

Has anyone had a problem getting these tanks filled?  If so, where did you get this done?

Are there up-to-date replacement tanks with OPD's that will fit in the 365.

Has anyone replaced these tanks with different up-to-date tanks?

Any help much appreciated.

Jack

Where on the 4-108 is the oil pressure sender located, I can't seem to find it?  Got a picture? I think I need to install a new sender, but can't seem to find where it goes.

Jack

Thanks to you all - I can't live without this site.

Happy New Year!

I know a few of you have an electric fuel pump, in addition to the manual pump on your 4-107/108's.

I'm thinking about this because priming the beast is getting to be a real pain.

Whomever you are, is there any chance you might have some info on this, like:
1.) Where is it installed?  Before or after the Racor?
2.) The make/model type of pump?  As I hear that the pump has to be free-flowing when its not running.
3.) Any pictures would be great.

My intended use would be mainly for priming, but I guess it would be a good backup too.

Jack

What's all this talk about Glow Plugs?  According to the Westerbeke operators manual, a Westerbeke 4-107/108 has no Glow Plugs.  Instead, on this W40 - there is a "Preheat Button" which energies a thermostat device located on the AIR intake manifold side of the engine.  This device assists in vaporizing the fuel at the intake manifold inlet.  The vaporized fuel is then drawn into the cylinder during cranking and allows for easy compustion during cranking when it's cold.  The only way to check compression is to remove the injectors & check thru the injector holes.

Am I wrong about this?

Jack

I plan to be there Friday too.  How do I get hole of you?
Jack

I've use a product called Barnacle Buster from www.trac-online.com  All you do is close the raw water seacock and dump it into your strainer while the engine is running till it starts to come out of the exhaust, then shut down the engine & let it sit overnight.  The next day after you re-open the seacock, and start the engine and you won't believe what comes out of the exhaust, which is all of the junk/scale that was accumulating inside the entire Raw water circuit.

To do this, you have to flush out all of the old stuff.  But has anyone tried to do this?  The manual says there is a petcock or plug somewhere down in the lower engine block to let out all of the old coolant/water.  I have looked & looked, but can't find it.  I have looked on both my W40 and on a friend's Perkins 4-108 to no success.

The only drain outlet I know is at the heat exchanger,  but this will only drain the stuff at that level.

Does anyone have a picture of where the lower plug is?

The coolant is supposed to be changed after a few years, to make it fresh with the anticorrosive properties, among other things, just like you are supposed to do with your car.

Mine has NEVER been changed.

Jack

Why is the thruster not in the center of the boat?

I had my main pulled last year to upgrade everything at the top & new cables & wiring.  When re-installed, I had the Spartite job done.  The only problem is the Spartite stuff is Blue in color, which is subject to UV decredation.  The yard said that after it sets up for a couple days, to paint over it with some silver paint, which I did.  So far everything is great.  No leaks.  I'm happy with it.  I asked how will it be to remove the mast in the future.  Answer, "it just pops out".
Jack

Garner,
Thanks for the info.  I will definitely get in touch with Atlantic when I get in Annapolis for the boat Show.
Jack

Garner,
I see you got the parts from Alpha Rigging.  Did they actually do the installation or did you do it?  I'm thinking of seeing if they will do it for me.  I figure I'll run into them at the Annapolis Boat Show & see if they will do it.  My main concern is how to rig up the backing plates under the headliner.  There seems to be a void between the headliner and the deck.  And by the way the one you have is just what I want.  It looks great.
Jack

Has anyone installed a Mainsheet Traveler?  It would seem I could point better when going to windward if I could get the main over a bit more.  If anyone has done this, how did you do this, type, brand, etc.  Or was it home-made?
Jack

Mine had the old DMI instruments, I just replaced everything with the ST60 package.  The thru-hull holes are the same size diameter ( 2") so you have no problems with the holes.  And the ST60 stuff will fit just about any Hull thickness.  The problem is getting the old DMI transducers out, & cleaning out the hole for the new transducers.  My old DMI Transducers were a bitch to get out, looked like 5200 was used, but after much patience, I got them out.  The Wind anamometer at the mast top was another problem.  Had to make an adapter plate so it would mount ok.  then run the new cable down the mast.  But where the 5 wires in the ST60 ended at the bottom of the mast to go into the junction box, I found that I could use the old wires from the DMI to the instrument and they matched up fine, so I used these to tie into the ST60 instrument at the cockpit.  However, the triangular mounting plate where the old DMI instruments were, didn't have big enough round holes to mount the 3 ST60 instruments, so I made a new one out of Starboard with bigger holes.  After hooking all up with the Seatalk cables, with 12v power,  all the ST60 stuff is working great.  Of course I had to have my 365 hauled out & the mast pulled to do all of this.

Jack