Thanks all for the info and drawings. I am not going to cut my tanks until I have the new ones on hand because I want to be able to move the boat in case of a bad storm or hurricane. I talked to Mike Sibley who replaced his tank in 2009. Mike sent me some usefull information to think about. I Will repeat what he said. I don't think he will have a problem with me sharing it with you. Do you think we need to make the tanks a little smaller. I think 1/4 all around is too much maybe 1/8 would be OK. Thanks Boykin and Barbara Beard, S/V Baba D Hull 334 1980 Charleston, SC
I no longer have an electronic version of the drawing, I do, however, have a hard copy and would be happy to mail or fax it to you if you give me a number or address. The drawing that I have was sent to me by another P365 owner and was prepared by Florida Marine Tanks, where he had the tanks made. If you elect to have them make the tanks, they may have the drawing on file. I had my tanks made in July of 2009 by Custom Marine Fuel Tanks of Jupiter Florida. The cost for both tanks (including shipping) was $890. They have a web page with information. They may also have the drawing on file. I would recommend reducing the length and width of the tanks by ¼ inch from the dimensions given on the drawing. I would also consider having then install an extra pickup and return on one of the tanks, depending on how you decide to plum the tanks and whether you might like to set up a fuel polishing system later on. If I had to do it over, I would have them use ¼ inch aluminum.
Unless you reduce the width of the tanks substantially, you will have to cut down one side of the box to get both tanks in. It is not a big deal and you don't have to cut it down much. Also, you will have to reinforce the bottom of the box that supports the tanks. The old tank was a single rigid peace that was mostly supported along the sides. With two separate tanks, you will need bottom support.
I elected not to join the tanks with a hose at the bottom, although this sounds simpler. I just didn't like the idea that a leaky hose might empty both tanks into the bilge. I just don't like the idea of holes in the bottom of my boat or in the bottom of fuel tanks. Besides, this arrangement will complicate installation and may also complicate the process of fueling up, depending on whether you have a separate fuel fill for each tank, as some owners have done. If you have a single fuel fill, then filling both tanks will be very slow if you depend on gravity to equalize the level. It is a little faster will an electric fuel pump. On mine, I fill the starboard tank. The fuel pickup from that tank then goes to a Racor 500 filter and an electric fuel pump, then to a three-way valve. Depending on the valve setting, the fuel is pumped back into the starboard tank (fuel polishing) on into the port tank, which feeds the engine. There is another Racor filter between the port tank and the engine. I also installed an electric fuel gauge for each tank, located at the navigation station. As you can see, there is more involved than just cutting out the old tank and putting in two smaller tanks.
Mike Sibley
I no longer have an electronic version of the drawing, I do, however, have a hard copy and would be happy to mail or fax it to you if you give me a number or address. The drawing that I have was sent to me by another P365 owner and was prepared by Florida Marine Tanks, where he had the tanks made. If you elect to have them make the tanks, they may have the drawing on file. I had my tanks made in July of 2009 by Custom Marine Fuel Tanks of Jupiter Florida. The cost for both tanks (including shipping) was $890. They have a web page with information. They may also have the drawing on file. I would recommend reducing the length and width of the tanks by ¼ inch from the dimensions given on the drawing. I would also consider having then install an extra pickup and return on one of the tanks, depending on how you decide to plum the tanks and whether you might like to set up a fuel polishing system later on. If I had to do it over, I would have them use ¼ inch aluminum.
Unless you reduce the width of the tanks substantially, you will have to cut down one side of the box to get both tanks in. It is not a big deal and you don't have to cut it down much. Also, you will have to reinforce the bottom of the box that supports the tanks. The old tank was a single rigid peace that was mostly supported along the sides. With two separate tanks, you will need bottom support.
I elected not to join the tanks with a hose at the bottom, although this sounds simpler. I just didn't like the idea that a leaky hose might empty both tanks into the bilge. I just don't like the idea of holes in the bottom of my boat or in the bottom of fuel tanks. Besides, this arrangement will complicate installation and may also complicate the process of fueling up, depending on whether you have a separate fuel fill for each tank, as some owners have done. If you have a single fuel fill, then filling both tanks will be very slow if you depend on gravity to equalize the level. It is a little faster will an electric fuel pump. On mine, I fill the starboard tank. The fuel pickup from that tank then goes to a Racor 500 filter and an electric fuel pump, then to a three-way valve. Depending on the valve setting, the fuel is pumped back into the starboard tank (fuel polishing) on into the port tank, which feeds the engine. There is another Racor filter between the port tank and the engine. I also installed an electric fuel gauge for each tank, located at the navigation station. As you can see, there is more involved than just cutting out the old tank and putting in two smaller tanks.
Mike Sibley