Pearson 365 and 367

I was going to chime in after your storm episode, but figured every idiot has an opinion on anchors.  Well, since you asked straight-up, here's this idiot's opinion.  I've got a 45# manson supreme and it's unreal.  Just setting it on the dock will give you confidence.  It sits extremely positive on it's tine, regardless of how you orient it.  Easy to see why it works so well.  I've used it a lot in mud (with weeds which can make grabbing the bottom challenging) in 30+ knots in the San Francisco Bay and it's never dragged.  I've only used it a few times in sand, but with similar results.  It has always set on the first pass.  I also have a 35# cqr which is extremely difficult/impossible to set.  I actually plan on the cqr dragging and use it as such... mainly as a lunch hook or when simply throwing chain over the side will suffice.  BTW, a 35#cqr and a 45# manson seem to be custom made to sit next to each other on a standard 365 bow sprit.

Only down-side is that the manson supreme is an extreme eye-sore... almost embarrassing.  Could be an issue for a girl like Maruska.

Wow, really nice.

Did you drill new holes for the fasteners for the eyebrow or is there a clever way to use the old ones?  I'm worried about getting fiberglass dust behind the headliner.

I ran all mine internally a few years back.  I had to pull the masts as the mast head had to be removed and holes drilled to accommodate for the new path of the halyards.  I also removed all hardware and shortened the fasteners so that they were flush with the inside of the mast... otherwise you will snag your halyards making it impossible to drop your sails which could be dangerous.  I overlooked one fastener on the mizzen mast head and, sure enough, got the mizzen halyard stuck.  Fortunately, I was at the dock without the sail raised but it still took me all day to free the halyard.  The biggest advantage is that I don't need to live with the halyard slap.  Also, you can run 4 halyards internally as opposed to 2 externally.  On one side I have a jib halyard and backup and on the other side I have the main and a main backup which doubles as my topping lift.  I also put a small cam at the exit plate of the topping lift/backup halyard so that I can take in or let out the lift quickly with one hand without fussing with the cleat. Originally, my topping lift consisted of a wire fixed to the mast head and small block and jam-cleat near the aft end of the boom.  I find that the ability to control everything at the mast (other than the sheet) is much more convenient.

Just be sure your halyards aren't going to snag on anything internally, rub against tie-wraps, rough areas, etc.  Also, mark the spots where you want to install the exit plates before you pull the masts.  I kinda "guessed" the proper location once they were out and ended putting one too low.  It's functional but I think it's better to have them high enough so that you can haul on the halyard with a full reach over your head instead of at shoulder level.

Looking at the Westerbeke schematics, it looks like the starter is dependent on the "back end" which I take to be the flywheel, housing etc.

My back end is listed as "thru August 1979" and takes the two bolt, CCW variety of starter (pn 11617). 

The schematic for the other back end doesn't have a date but it must be for later models and is clearly the 3 bolt, CW type (pn 16762).

The hunt for a replacement continues.

Thanks Ron.  I believe that is the three bolt version which appears to be located on the other side of the bell housing (away from the engine)... so it turns CW instead of CCW like mine.  From what I can tell, maybe this is how the later 4-108's were set up?  Or maybe it's just another configuration for the engine.  Confusing.

Has anyone found a replacement for the 2-bolt, 13 tooth, inertia-type Lucas M45G Starter?

I believe a newer Lucas part number was 26163, the Westerbeke part was 11617 which was again replaced by the part number "API Marine LUC 105"... all of which have been discontinued with no additional details. 

I saw a few threads on this site with some discussion but it seemed like mostly preliminary footwork.  Wondering if anyone had any success in actually installing.

Don W. mentioned Delco 28MT but it looks like it has 3 mounting holes and turns CW while I believe the Lucas is CCW.

Ideally, I'd like a to locate a newer solenoid style replacement (not inertial) but no luck yet.

Any help appreciated.
Thanks,
Mike

Thanks again, Dale.  Looks like I may have enough meat to work with after all.  I'm going to try a few test fills this evening.

Thanks for the shots.  Wow.  That looks really good.  hmmm... maybe more than a Sunday evening project, though.

What's your thought on the minimum depth required to hold a bung?  I was thinking about using black calking in the holes instead of bungs but the result might be a diseased-looking toe-rail.  I've never seen it done so I'm sure there's a good reason not to do it.

Thanks again.

cheers,
mike

Great shots.  Sure is a good looking boat.  Any shots with all the canvas up?

Noticed a nice looking toe-rail in one of your pictures.  Did you restore that or build from scratch?

I've got a lot of screw heads that need to be re-countersunk on my toe-rail and I'm trying to figure out the feasibility of the restoration.

Mike
#121

Thanks for the post RayNWanda.  I've been looking for that info ever since I've owned the boat!

My last slip was 36' and I stuck out a few inches but my bowsprit has been shortened/removed.  I'm probably 37' if I'm honest about things, so 40' for you is probably pretty close.  On the west coast, I've always been charged by the foot for transient (since you usually get an end tie) and they round up to the next largest slip (40') for permanent berthing.

As far as the bladders, I've actually been meaning to add those as a "continually need fixing" item on this thread.

I've lived aboard for a few years now and have grown to HATE those things.  I've just order my third pair (meaning number 5 and 6) and at $170 a pop (pun intended), the routine is getting old.  They aren't vented like a tank so if you over-fill them they're extremely easy to rupture.

The other problem I have is that my fill hose on one side has a slight low spot which acts kinda like a check valve.  Every time you fill the bladder from the deck, you push in a little more air so after several fills the bladder will be half-full of air with nowhere for it to go (no vent).  You're then required to pull apart the settee and remove the fill hose to get the air out.

I had the same problems mentioned (broken baffles, blisters, grime, etc).  I gave up on the tank rebuild as I couldn't find an epoxy suitable for use with drinking water (if you read the fine print, all the potable water epoxies are for tanks 1000 gallons minimum).

Anyway, bladders are a quick and easy fix but I'd definitely recommend that one look at it as a temporary solution and I don't think they'd be a good idea for someone heading out cruising.  Something to keep in mind as it may affect the way you choose to cut the tops of your tanks off.

Hey allenc,
I've been looking for something similar.

The dimensions for the #3 jib on the 365 (ketch) line drawing are luff of 36'10", foot 16'5", and leach of  31'8" (259 sq.ft.) to be made from 6.3 oz.  There are no dimensions for storm jib or storm sail.

My current #3 has a luff of 35", foot 15'4", and leach of 31'6" which works out to 240 sq. feet but it has a 16" pendant at the tack.  As it's set up right now, it seems to trim pretty well with the lead cars 3 positions from all the way forward.

Based on the above, I guessed that I wanted something in the 160-200 sq. ft. range.  Most of the used sails I've seen online around that size are high(er) aspect and I was worried that the proper lead would need to be farther forward than I could achieve.  Other then the jib car track, I have no way of putting a block further forward on the rail.  With that in mind, I sketched out my current sails on Solidworks and tried to find a candidate with a similar lead.  There weren't a lot to choose from but I found a 7.5 oz sail at Minneys Surplus (in Southern Cal) with the measurements; luff 30'4", foot 14'2", leach 26'7" which works out to a little under 190 sq. ft.  And sure enough, with the sail's tack on the deck I had a hard time keeping the sails leach from flogging when pointing above about 45 degs. which I took to mean my jib lead was too far back for the sail.  I'm currently experimenting with 2' pendant on the tack and this seems to work pretty well as far as trim although I'm going to try and shorten it a little more to get the sail closer to the deck.

I'm a novice sailor but with my old #3, I'd get my ass handed to me in sustained 30 knots (San Francisco Bay is windy this time of year) but I feel pretty comfortable in the 30-35 knot range with the smaller sail and 2 reefs.  I definitely still want to get a true storm sail in the inventory, however.

Anyway, just some ball park numbers.  I'd be interested in hearing what others are using.  Also very interested in dimensions and experiences flying a real storm sail.

Do any 365 owners have SSB/Ham aboard?  I'm in the process of installing an Icom 7000 and AH-4 tuner and trying to find out what's worked for others as far as antenna, grounding, counterpoise, noise issues, etc.

The insulted rear stay isn't really an option on the ketch, so I'm thinking along the lines of an end-fed, random wire antenna I can temporarily hoist with the main topping lift. 
Anyway, I can't identify a "perfect" set-up as every configuration I can think of appears to have major draw backs and was wondering what others have done.

Back on board now... with the LED's, the tricolor draws around 0.1 amps and I'd estimate the anchor draws between 0.05 - 0.08 amps (my ammeter only has 0.1 resolution).