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Messages - TheIntern36

#2
I purchased Hull #255 from Terry Eastman 2 years ago.  She has been re-christened SV The Intern. 

https://goo.gl/photos/ej1vGpJPXX69xpNq5

#3
How hard is it to get perfect alignment on the shaft between the V-Drive and the cutlass bearing?  What methods have you found successful? 

I may remove mine for a checkout and possible rebuild, and want to make sure it's perfect when it goes back in.  The shaft and propeller were balanced last year.  It seems to run true at cruising speeds, and docking speeds, but has a small whip in between high and low RPM.

Any advice on this system would be greatly appreciated.  Most of the folks out there can't get past the idea the engine sits backwards when I ask them for advice.

Sam
#4
Thought I'd put some pics up of my hot water heater, part of my freshwater system refit. 

This is the distribution system I pulled.  This deals with the cold water side only.  It seems whoever put it together was just digging through his grab bag of plumbing goodies to cobble this together

https://goo.gl/photos/zqMtpcxzmMSQsf59A

This is my simplified version..

https://goo.gl/photos/NVta3wsNbBySbiwN9

And everything back on the heater.  I also installed a mixing valve on the hot water side.  I don't know if anyone else has this problem, but my hot water was SCALDING, even when we weren't using the heat off the engine.  So this valve will keep the hot side below 34 degrees C.

https://goo.gl/photos/scgkomWiFCkWCP5s7

Also.. in case you're wondering, my partner in crime thought she'd look better in metallic copper, so there's that.

Hears to a hot shower in the Bahamas someday.
#5
Pearson 365/367 Mechanic Shop / Re: Cutlass Bearing Strut
September 01, 2015, 04:58:43 PM
If I remember correctly I could see a gap forming in the bedding around mine as well.  This will be fun!
#6
I wonder how hard it is to get all the Bondo out of the way so you can get the thing off...  I imagine there will be much hammering and swearing to come.
#7
Pete, Maybe I'm asking the wrong question.  I know I have a leak.. It doesn't appear that there is any structural damage.  I was under the boat a year ago, new stuffing box, hose clamps, checked shaft and new cutlass bearing. Should I just focus on sealing the strut in place from the outside?
#8
Pearson 365/367 Mechanic Shop / Cutlass Bearing Strut
August 31, 2015, 10:23:48 AM
One of the bolts that holds on my Cutlass Bearing Strut is weeping.  I've dammed it up to keep the water out for now, but I want to re-bed it before the engine goes back in, I know if I don't It will start leaking more over time and I'll regret not having the uninhibited access I have now.  I'm prepared to have it towed to the yard to get hauled out, but I'm wondering if this is something I really need to pay them to do.  Has anyone done this themselves?  How difficult is it to remove?  Will it self-align when I bolt it back together with the proper goop, or do I need to be worried about alignment?

Any input would be greatly appreciated!

Sam
#9
Thanks for the tip.. The easier the better, easy things tend to get done when they should.
#10
Can companies refurb motor mounts?  Mine look like they were originally from Bushings Inc.  The rubber isn't good anymore but I don't really see anything else wrong with them.
#11
Pete- I purchased the boat in Kemah, TX, so have no reason to believe she was hurt in Katrina.  You are right about my transmission, it is a 1:1 Velvet Drive, which I am planning on opening up, and possibly rebuilding as soon as my engine is back in one piece. 

One issue that I'm having to face before we get the motor back in is a leaky strut bolt.  You can't tell from that picture but one of the bolts is weeping quite a bit (I expect much more if the 600 lbs iron horse was in place.  I've dammed it with some epoxy but only so I could paint it..  I am making preparations to do a haul out sometime this fall, before the engine goes back in.  I plan on having the yard remove and rebed the strut, and I will go through replacing 4 thru-hulls while it's out (the overboard discharge for the head, shower sump, and cockpit drains all need to be gone through).  I'll bond it as soon as it's not leaking.

Thanks for the encouragement, the PO neglected a serious oil leak for god only knows how long.  I inherited a major sludge issue, that took many cans of foaming simple green, hot water, and pressure washer to remove.  But nothing beats sitting in your engine bay running hose in a white t-shirt and coming out clean.

These are some pics of where I started...

https://goo.gl/photos/dXKwNqPYBZx9hWTd9

https://goo.gl/photos/e5sxiGsHeBmNuJD96

https://goo.gl/photos/Cw2DkY4ckvCmNY9P7
#12
I think my shower has had relatively little use over its lifetime.  Hoping it will be happy to remain in service for a few more years.  My freshwater lines left a lot to be desired, so I replaced all the tank fill and feed lines, which prompted me to replace the pressure lines as well (at least one was leaking) 

https://goo.gl/photos/dBEBB4WmmKY6wLzk7
#13
That's good to know.  I'm hoping I won't ever need to get that up close and personal again (other than routine maint.)  The engine is in my shop now about halfway through a rebuild.  Also thanks for the reminder I need to source some motor mounts.  All mine are in pretty bad need of replacement.

https://goo.gl/photos/j9kCAd6qTdBxtwXv6

#15
I purchased La Concorde (Now SV The Intern) in Kemah, TX two years ago.  She has been in New Orleans for the last year and we've been slowly going through all the major systems and getting things right.  The posts on here so far have been wonderfully helpful.  Looking forward to many more miles with my P365.  Holler if anyone ever finds themselves on Lake Pontchartrain..

Sam