Pearson 365 and 367

Thanks for posting your measurements! I'm interested in making the same modification. However I'm not sure if it makes sense to place the inner forestay the same 45" back from the headstay, given the different position and height of the mast. For the 365 conversion, do you think you would make any adjustments to that measurement?

If you keep the same measurement, the foresail will be smaller than on the 367. I did some calculations using I and J values from sailboatdata.com. With a 45" offset for the inner forestay, the 367 inner foretriangle is 212 sqft which is 60% the foretriangle area. If you use the same offset on the 365, the inner foretriangle is 56% of the foretriangle area, which I suppose is pretty close. Sounds good for a heavy-weather rig I suppose.

Nereid, have you done any further work on this project? What are you doing about sheeting? Running backstays? Will your staysail have a boom?

Intriguing... do you have dimensions on the staysail? Pictures?

Quote from: SVTheEdge on May 03, 2018, 09:49:10 PM
So the intake brings in water for cooling for the refrigerator compressor or air conditioning compressor?  How does it work?

Ah, good question. That is one way to cool your refrigerant, but you then have to deal with corrosion, a pump, and the delight of having another point of ingress for the sea. I think it's called "water-cooled" refrigeration.

A "keel-cooler" is a bronze bar that you attach to the underside of the hull. It has a stem that fits through a hole in the hull and the refrigerant lines lead into the stem. It acts directly as a condenser. So instead of bringing seawater in to cool the refrigerant, you send the refrigerant outside to be cooled. The condenser is sealed to the hull with the sealant of your choice so it's pretty secure.

Following up from my original question, I had a look in the cockpit lazarette yesterday and it seems like the cooler will likely be above the water if we're heeled sufficiently to port. So I'll probably go with the location under the salon, near the raw water intake. It'll be a lot more work but definitely always under the waterline. I'll update the thread as the project progresses; haulout is next week.

Hi, I've just ordered a keel cooler and it will be installed in a couple of weeks. Still trying to decide where to install it. Factors going into the decision:

1) Needs to be close to the compressor, or the compressor will need to be moved. Compressor is in the port cockpit lazarette.

2) I'd like to use it as the main component in a counterpoise for an HF antenna, so having it close to where the antenna will be installed is preferable.

3) It will be more effective if it's usually below the waterline.

So my preferred choice is to install it in the port cockpit lazarette, since it would mean not having to move the compressor. I'm willing to put an HF antenna back there. I'm thinking a few inches aft of the cockpit drain. So the question is, does that spot usually stay below the waterline?

An alternative is under the cabin sole, near the aft edge of the ballast. I would have to fabricate a platform to install the compressor on, somewhere on top of the keel. It would be roughly in line with the engine raw water intake, so definitely always underwater. And it would be closer to the fridge, so maybe more efficient due to a shorter run.

Thoughts?

I've noticed the same thing and have also been worrying. Bloomberg still lists him as working for his company, as does his company website (updated 2018-02-12), so I guess that's a good sign?

Happy to share and sorry for the weird inverted colors that I'm just noticing now (who ever heard of orange painter's tape?). Here are the original photos: https://goo.gl/photos/CWcLzdg5AMoehwq16

I'm glad I had the yard do a thorough sanding job; they're the ones who found these blisters and they inspected the entire hull to ensure there were no more. Not sure I would have discovered these on my own since I didn't really know what to look for at the time.

Quote from: Maruskathe material that weeped from your sores was I'll bet sticky

Yeah I didn't sample it In this video you can see what happens when I apply a bit of pretty to one of the blisters before I started working on it but after the yard had uncovered it.

I hauled Laelia in March 2017 and the yard found a few blisters while sanding the old paint. The vast majority were only in the paint but three were into the fiberglass. It was quite obvious: tapping on the glass in some spots produce a sickening squish sound instead of the clear "clack" sound at healthy spots. If you poked the bad spots with a knife they'd weep.



The yard suggested I could probably fix them myself, so that's what I did. They were all on the ballast so I didn't have to worry about making any holes (actually none of them went all the way through the layup anyway). They probably gave me a procedure but I might have just found it on the internet.

Here's what I did.

1) First the yard prepped the area for me by sanding down to the gelcoat on the blister itself and also around it.

2) Remove the bad glass. I started with a drill to put holes in the glass and remove the "surface", which was pretty much just gelcoat.

3) Grind away all the bad glass. All. This meant that apparently small blisters, a couple of cm in diameter at the surface, were opened up to 7 or 8 cm. I used an angle grinder with one of those overlapping sandpaper wheels and ground until I had good glass, meaning no fibers sticking out anywhere and solid resin. I feathered the edges of the hole so that it was a very shallow slope from the gelcoat down to the bottom of the hole - I aimed for 12:1.

4) Cleaned the area with acetone and masked around it.



5) Paint some unthickened epoxy over the area.

6) When it has partially cured, fill with thickened epoxy.

Two blog posts by Laelia's PO on the subject:

http://voyageoflaelia.blogspot.com/2012/01/another-day-in-paradise-and-comments-on.html - on installation

http://voyageoflaelia.blogspot.com/2012/01/sail-and-learn.html - on sailing with it

Some highlights:

QuoteThe emergency tiller is not a very good tiller – it is too short, it is a cold, metal tube to hang on to, it is too short and it sticks up at an odd angle.

QuoteIf yesterday's sail was as bad as it gets, I could live with it but one of the other owners commented that even with a wheel, the steering effort can get pretty high when the wind picks up.

In the end, well, my boat still has a wheel

This might be the thread he was referring to: http://www.pearson365.com/forum/index.php?topic=1010.0

Here are measurements for my emergency tiller, all in inches:

Bottom to middle of bend, measured along inside of bend = 34
Mid bend to top, measured along inside of bend = 30.5
End to end, measured along inside of bend = 65
End to end, measured in a straight line = 58
Width (external) of square cross section at the bottom = 1-3/4
Top diameter = 1-7/8

Laelia's previous owner found that you can't mount the tiller facing in the normal tiller orientation without removing the wheel and the compass, which is obviously not something you want to be doing in an emergency In my own experiments, I found it easy enough (sitting a the dock) to operate the tiller while it was mounted pointing off to starboard, so the handle part extends over the seat.

Dove to scrape the hull. First cleaning since our haulout in December and the hull was mostly clean except usual problem areas. I'll probably try to make a habit of it; next time I'll replace a zinc.

Dale, do you see any downside to running the wire in a track mounted under the headliner like Della and Dave do? That sounds like the best of both worlds to me.

Looks great! I'm tempted to do this when I replace my lifelines.

Quote from: PeteW on July 12, 2015, 04:37:47 PMI've seen a sailboat run straight into a dock. The bow ran straight up out of the water and then slide back down. No damage. Wasn't my boat.

What marina was it at? I ask for no particular reason

Quote from: RockysMate on June 21, 2015, 12:28:14 PMStew, do you have pics of custom bimini?

+1 on "would love to see custom bimini pics".

Quote from: Della and Dave on April 29, 2015, 01:15:36 PMfor going to really high strength chain, like G70, is that the shackles aren't up to the chain strength unless you really oversize them, and then they won't fit through the link.  One way of getting around this is to order your chain with extra large end links, which I guess is possible with some chain manufacturers, but you would of course loose the ability to cut it shorter later, and it is a lot more expensive to do that.

I guess a titanium shackle is out of the question due to galvanic corrosion?