Pearson 365 and 367

For sale is our wonderful boat that has been our home for the past 10 years.
"Silver Wings" is a proven and well found cruising boat that has  sailed from Washington to Mexico and up and down the Pacific Mexican coast and the Sea of Cortez. She is well equipped with all the cruising equipment and systems.
Power:
*Westerbeke 40 with Walter V drive
*Reverso pump oil change system
Sails:
*Profurl boom furling main sail (Doyle)
*120% Genoa on Profurl furler (Dolye)
*Staysail on Profurl furler (Doyle)
*Asymmetrical spinnaker with Orca design
Equipment:
*Cruise RO watermaker (30gph)
*320 watts solar with two Victron MPPT controllers
*Victron Inverter/Charger
*80amp Balmar alternator
*2 256ah LiPOF batteries (512ah total)
*custom solar hot water heater
Interior:
*Custom galley cabinets
*Custom, high efficiency freezer/frig (very small battery drain)
*Custom (super comfortable) V berth mattress
Electronics:
*B&G Vulcan 9 chartplotter (new)
*Simrad 3G radar
*B&G depth, speed, wind
*Raymarine autopilot with custom built hydraulic ram
*Starlink dish on mount
Ground Tackle:
*Primary anchor- 44# Rocna, 200 feet of 5/16" chain plus 175' of 5/8" Mega braid
                          - Lewmar windlass with deck switches
*Secondary anchor- Delta with 50' of 5/15" chain and 200' of 5/8" megabraid
*Stern anchor- Fortress Aluminum with 10' of 5/16" chain and 200' of 1/2" double braid on a stern spool
*Stern line on a spool- 300' of 1/2" MFP floating line.
Miscellaneous:
*Custom hard dodger and bimini
*Hookah system for cleaning the bottom
*Dickenson Alaska diesel heater (currently disconnected)
* Honda 2000i generator

Not included but available as an add-on:
*8 foot Fatty Knees sailing dinghy

Photos available

https://theboatgalley.com/diy-boat-garden/

Hope you can use any of this information!  Fair winds Risto and Liz SV Silver Wings

I want to buy a backup lift pump for my 367 that is in Mexico. Can anyone tell me if the lift pump is a two stud or four stud? Westebeke shows both and I figure that other Person 365/7s would be the same.
Thanks!

Thanks Dale. I think the filler is polysulfide. The pieces are bedded in silicone so i will need to be thorough in prepping the surface before re-bedding. Think I will just use black boatlife. I have always had good results with it. My big challenge is actually finding a 10' piece of teak in Banderas Bay!

Hi all,
We are currently in Puerto Vallarta, MX and have some time to replace a section of the port cap rail. At some point in the past a travel lift crunched the outer of the two pieces.
Are the original (1981) caprails made of teak? I need to get the pieces off and cut into one and I will be able to tell, but thought I'd ask the group.
Secondly, the rails are finished with Cetol. Not my favorite but I think I'll stick with it rather than taking everything down to bare wood.
I am trying to decide the best material to fill the 1/16" space between the two strips. It seems the original was silicone. Yuck! My thought is to sand off the residual silicone, then use Thixo Flex epoxy adhesive to bed the new section as well as filling the gap. As far as I know, Cetol will bond to epoxy if it is thoroughly cured.
I appreciate any thoughts and advice.
Happy New Year!
Risto

I was making new chain plate covers and discovered something I had't seen before. The chain plates for the lowers are 3/8" and have 4 bolts while the one for the uppers are 1/4" with only 3 bolts. Are other 367sthat way? Seems odd given the relative loads.

I have a set if you are interested. PM me

I have a pair that we wo't use. Our Fatty Knees travels on our foredeck or towed. I am in the Seattle area. Make me an offer by PM.

I have a complete set of the davits if you are interested.

  THANK YOU ALL,! Very helpful. Now, we'll see what I find when i get in there.
Seems like it might be quite a project to take the halyards internal. I'll post some pictures.

Does anyone have a picture of the interior mast profile for an'81 367 main mast? I am pulling our mast next week to rewire and possibly rework the halyards. I would like to know if anyone has removed the masthead sheave box, what it looks like and if the mast has an internal wire slide track.
I want to explore taking the existing external halyards internal and being able to create spare genoa and main halyard as well as a topping lift for the boom.
Thanks, Risto

I have the original boom and fittings for our 1981 P367 Cutter. We have a Profurl boom that I am going to stay with. I had toyed with the idea of going back to slab reefing but have decided that the Profurl suits us well.
I would like to see the original boom utilized if someone can use it. It won't fit in the storage locker, we have sold the house and will be in Mexico this time next year. I hate to take it to the recycler.
Anyone need it?
Please PM me asap.
Oh, I have the stays'l boom and pedestal, too
Risto

I am in the middle of revamping the frig box, too. I will now have to find somewhere else to hide the bodies...
My idea is to create a 2CF freezer box with a spill-over into about a 4CF refrigerator box. I have put the freezer section on the outboard (port)side as it made sense to use the smaller space that way. It will have a flat Frigoboat evaporator plate bent to fit around three sides.
I removed the tile top and plywood substrate to get at the whole box. First, I drilled a bunch of 1/2" holes in the box on the fore, aft and inboard sides and pumped about 5 cans of "low pressure" urethane foam into the void between the box foam and the surrounding plywood. Definitely use the low pressure foam or you will have some serious displacement issues. I had quite a bit of expanded foam to trim off as it expanded out the gaps at the top, but that was easy to trim. So now with an extra 1" or so of foam on the outside, I added about 5" of polyiso board to the bottom inside the box. I contacted R Parts and found they had a couple 1/2" vacuum panels that would fit as well as two 1" panels that fit the narrow ends. So I built out the fore and aft sides with 1" polyiso down to the ledge, then placed the 1/2" Vac panels as far outboard as possible to be in the "freezer zone". Then I filled in the remaining area with 1/2" polyiso board. Then I put the 1" Vac panels on the narrow ends. The final insulation was one more layer of 1/2" polyiso over all sides primarily to protect the Vac panels. (I plan to mark the interior of the box with a large note to use SHORT screws when attaching anything. A pinhole takes the 1/2" vac panel from R-20 to R-zip). I partitioned off the freezer compartment
With 1" pink board with FRP on both sides. I now have lined all sides with FRP and glassed the joints with 2" fg tape and epoxy resin. I will be filleting the joints with tricked epoxy and painting for eas of cleaning. The top will have two hinged lids that have 3" of pink board and a layer of Frp. The top will be Corian. The box is a LOT smaller and much better insulated. I hope it will hold up in the tropics. I will try to post some photos as I get some time.

I was finally successful. I ended up making a banjo fittings from parts. I will post the details and pics when I have a minute.

I just discovered the site is back up...
the boom is approx 10' 5". I can get an exact measurement and pics if you are interested