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Messages - KIDTLTACK

#1
They also make a 45 degree fitting that may help your clearance problem.  Persevere , it's worth it. Best of luck
kidtltack
#2
RE: oil sump plug. I finally got fed up with trying to pump oil through the dipstick (it's a joke).   a little exploration reveals access to the sump plug.  One can remove the engine box / galley sink base cabinet partition and adjacent plywood floor panel under the galley sink.  This is quite easy and allows a wrench to be placed on the sump plug.  With the oil drained, take the removed plug to a hydraulic fitting supplier (mine turned out to be bsp(British straight thread) You can buy the adapter to an american jic fitting.  Add the desired length of hydraulic hose together with an in line shutoff valve and an additional short length of hose on the discharge side of the shutoff valve (this is for inserting into your choice of drain oil container). I routed the hose over the top of the partition between the motor box and the base cabinet of the galley sink and hung it on a bracket on the sink side of the partition.  When it's time to change oil,  lay the hose in the bilge and insert the hose into your choice of container.  Open the valve and all the hot oil quickly drains.   the  entire oil and filter change takes less than fifteen minutes.  Cost is about $50.00 dollars.  It was well worth the effort and eliminates the frustration for future oil changes

Brian Bafs
#3
Hi All,  In August ,2014, I was planning a trip from northern Lake Michigan to Mobile Al.  the toilet was a difficult choice for me,  I finally chose the Natures Head Composting toilet. The toilet is a little high on the riser but I thought I would complete a trial run before I cut away the riser to lower the seat by four inches. The toilet sits a little high for now and actually isn't bad at this height (a little more like a bar stool,Ha). I ran the vent hose through the clothes hamper and up through the storage cabinet adjacent to the bulkhead and then out through the hull as high as possible while still having room to tighten a thru-hull fitting nut. I did this because I didn't want to cut a hole in the cabin roof and didn't want the hose to show in the head. I also removed the hinge hardware at the back of the toilet.  This hinge is used to tilt the top of the toilet back and then remove it from the base.  the problem with this is that it requires the toilet to be mounted a few inches from the bulkhead to provide clearance for the tilting of the top.  this, in my opinion, causes the toilet to protrude too far into the foot space in front of the head sink basin. I checked with the factory and they said this was a viable alternative.  with the hinge detached the toilet may be lifted straight up after the latches are opened. In this arrangement the toilet sits against the bulkhead and works out nicely.  There is an installation video by Sailrite on a 37 footer with a head a lot smaller than the 365.  In this video they take you through the step by step process.  After watching this video, one can feel fortunate to have a Pearson 365 Head.  As for the toilet it does just what is promised.  I have zero Oder and I mean ZERO.  Even when emptying the toilet there isn't anything unpleasant. The fan runs continuously but only draws milliamps. The fresh air kills the bacteria.  I used peat moss from Home Depot $7.00 for a years worth. the natures head is an easy install for the Pearson 365. If you would like photos of my installation, my email is: bebafs@yahoo.com. I'm now in Alabama. A singled handed trip I won't soon forget.  The toilet is working great.
Brian
#4
Hi everyone,
Recently purchased a 1979 Pearson Ketch.  The boat is stored in northern Michigan and I am here in Indianapolis. I am hoping someone could tell me the access dimensions for the opening under the seat for the transom locker.

Thanks,
Brian