Pearson 365 and 367

And I was thinking of solar panels on my dingy davits.

Don,

I don't know if we have the same setup, but my marina was able to change the shift cable in my 1976 365 ketch without disturbing the steering cables. If I remember correctly, the old cable had to be sneaked out while turning the wheel to assist in extracting it from tight areas in the pedestal. Probably same technique for negotiating the new cable into position.

Andy

Thanks PeteW/Tartanic,

I actually was able to locate some (NOS) new old stock WC seacocks.  Paid $150 ea for the 1.5" cockpit drain valves and $100 for the 3/4" seawater intake valve for the head. I should be good for another 35 years.

Nice post on the "below the waterline restoration."  I'm glassing in fiberglass backing plates for  the new seacocks.

Thanks again,
Andy

I think I confirmed that too much valve material was lapped off. Since posting my original question, I did one more valve and was very conscious of how far the cone was recessed in the body before dismantling. After cleaning and lapping, which I felt was not overly aggressive, I created the same problem with this valve as the original.

Not knowing the history of my seacock maintenance from previous owners, I can only assume that my valves were on their "last lap."

I'll be investigating a couple of "fix" ideas while looking for replacements.  I'll post any successful remedies if that happens.

Andy

Dale,
Good thought, but only worked on one at a time.  Agreed, wouldn't take much change of diameter to make meaningful difference in depth. Hopefully I'll know more later. Planning to remove the seacock later today. Thanks for your thoughts.
Andy

Thanks Dale,

I have the cone with me and it looks solid.  But, you got me thinking that a crack in the housing could result in the same condition of "cone being too long", as the housing can spread, creating a bigger bore, and the plug traveling deeper. Will have to examine more closely at the boat.  Either way, the seacock will be coming out tomorrow.

Here's a photo of the problem seacock showing the protruding tapered cone, next to one that shows a properly seated recessed cone end. (1st time photo upload - hope it works)

http://s1360.photobucket.com/user/bioandy/media/Wilcox-Crittenden%20Seacocks/compareseacockplugs_zpsc4c1ba82.jpg.html#/user/bioandy/media/Wilcox-Crittenden%20Seacocks/compareseacockplugs_zpsc4c1ba82.jpg.html?&_suid=136580507228102213356603514754

Andy

Quote from: Maruska on April 12, 2013, 02:09:47 PM
Andy,
If my memory serves me correct, there is a thick washer on the nut side that keeps the nut from bottoming out on the base of the threads.
Yes/no?
Dale

That's correct. The flat washer has a flat in the hole which indexes the flat on the threaded end of the cone. This flat washer hits the end of the cone before it touches the seacock housing, preventing the cone from being drawn in to the housing. The adjusting nut should pull the cone through the housing as the flat washer bears on the housing, but the cone is already protruding past the end of the housing. Maybe I should have said that the flat washer bottoms-out on the end of the cone before it bears on the housing.

Hello all. I'm going through all the Wilcox-Crittenden seacocks and thu-hulls on my recently acquired 1976 Pearson 365, and I have a dilemma with one of them.  I've probably read everything there is to read on the internet about refurbishing these tapered cone seacocks, but haven't seen anything that addresses my particular problem.  Hopefully, somebody can comment.  All the other seacocks have been cleaned, lapped with grinding compound, greased and reinstalled with no problem.  The problem I'm having with one of them is that upon reassembly, the cone seems to protrude through the housing so much so, that the narrow end actually protrudes past the seacock housing, so that the adjusting nut bottoms-out on the threaded stub before the cone is snug in the housing. There is just too much play between the cone and housing to make a proper seal.  The seacock seemed to operate fine with no apparent leaks before disassembly.  I can't imagine that I lapped so much material off that I created a sloppy fit. None of the other seacocks' tapered cone plugs protrude past the housing (on the narrow end). Thought I'd see if anybody had a comment before I replace the entire seacock.  Thanks for all comments.
Andy

As of 09/27/2012, we are the proud owners of a 1976 Pearson 365 Ketch, Hull# 32, purchased from Chad Gleason of Glen Cove, NY, USA. Vessel's name previously changed from "Confident" to "SABBATICAL" and will remain.  Homeport - Babylon, Long Island, New York, USA.

We hope to rise to and continue the adventures of previous owners.

Thanks for a great site.  We hope to contribute value where we can.

Andy and Tiff Drossos