Pearson 365 and 367

Thanks Graemek

Anyone else have any ideas/experience with this matter? Does your anchor locker drain into bilge, out through hull, or not at all?

Having some mold and damp issues - Particularly on the interior woodwork [cabinets, lockers, under wooden V-berth hatches, sometimes a bit on walls, underside of bilge hatches].

Boat is a 1980 365, I am a live aboard, on anchor or mooring [no shore power] right now in Massachusetts in October [cold water, condensation issues?].

There is only one dorade vent with a solar fan that runs only with direct sunlight. Maybe I have to add more venting? Are others having the same issues, and what have you done to help solve the problem?

Thank you

There doesn't seem to be any anchor locker drainage on my 1980 365. Water tank is in the way, no way though, and bottom of locker is about 4 inches below the waterline.

Water builds up down there and creates moisture problems. And its a bit hard to get under the V-berth bed to try to sponge out every other day.

Any advice on how to drain the locker? I find it hard to believe that this issue was not addressed when building - it seems pretty basic.

The only things I can think of are 1) Raise the bottom of the anchor locker a foot or more and then drain outboard {but this would be a lot of work, raise the center of gravity and reduce chain storage area 2) drill a hole though the water tank at both ends and install a drain tube running to the bilge and glass it all in [but this also seems like a lot of work, and has possibility of failing/leaking fresh water.

Anyone have an easier fix? I would love to hear it!!!

And while we are in the anchor locker - would a 45 lb CQR on 200 ft of chain be a 'Tropical Storm' [dare I say even hurricane] setup? Or would an even heavier anchor be recommended for the absolutely worst conditions?

Thanks everyone. 

I will be sailing a lot in Maine, where there are a TON of lobster pots and lines. One sailor said they snagged the prop twice a year on them, another said it's happened twice in ten years.

I saw a boat with a tight, thin wire running from the aft end of the keel to the forward edge of the skeg, kind of creating a protected prop, in regards to underwater lines. I thought this was a good idea for sailing through lobster pot minefields, so that run over lines would not go along the keel and then float up to snag on the prop. Otherwise you would have to zig and zag like crazy in some areas. I realize the wire will give little protection while motoring, because lines will be sucked into the prop.

The boat I am sailing [Pearson 365] has a line cutter on the shaft, but I would like to avoid getting to that point, for several reasons [lobstermen's livelihoods, tougher to cut lines, etc].

Anyways, what does everyone think? Any experience or knowledge about this? Would it help, or just be a waste of my time to set up?

Also, I was thinking that instead of screwing more holes into the boat [to attach the wire] I would epoxy on some kind of tabs [like a square inch or two of plastic or rubber with a small eye hook], onto which I could tightly string thick fishing line. So, any ideas about this, what to use for pads, and would I need to sand through the ablative paint to make them stick?

Have at it everyone!

Thanks for all the great advice so far,

John

Great advice everyone . . . .

Zaya - thank you for the breakdown of what you do at certain wind speeds. Qustion -if I understand you, you would like to be able to go fast enough to surf down waves when the wind and seas are heavy. Is that correct? I thought surfing was dangerous, because of possibility of losing control, turning sideways, etc. Don't know myself, so interested in your, and others, thoughts on this.

Randy - point well taken. I hear what you are saying. Thank you.

BTW - I posted another question/post about if P365 hulls are balsa cored or not. If you have any input, please check it out [find under 'cored hulls or solid glass?'].

John

Someone who knows Pearson's pretty well said some hulls [just above waterline?] were balsa cored [like the P 40] with solid glass around through hulls, and that he thought maybe the Pearson 365 was also balsa cored, though again, maybe just above the waterline.

Anybody know for sure? Solid glass, cored above waterline, all cored? I am looking at a 1980 P365.

Thank you!

Great comments and suggestions on the scuppers. I will look into that.Thanks also for the link to look up.

Allen, where did you glass in the tube? Near seat level? Or lower?

How does everybody find the 365 sails in light airs and heavy winds/big seas???

We did the sea trial a few days ago, had 6 knots of wind, boat was going along at 3 knots. Thought that was pretty good. But I have no experience of this boat in heavy weather.

Thanks everybody for the great info.

Is there anyone out there who has taken a 365 across the ocean to give their 2 cents? Or does anyone know of people who have?

Thanks again,

John

Hello everyone - Wondering what the thinking is on the Pearson 365 [ketch] being a bluewater boat? How capable is it offshore? I know skipper must good, but lets just focus on the boat itself. Advantages, disadvantages, personal experiences and tales of others circumnavigating, crossing the ocean, etc. Easy motion, sail balance, experiences with good auto pilots, windvanes, steering with balanced main and mizzen?

How hard will it be to mount a windvane with the mizzen and solar panels on the davits??? Or is there a decent way to get along without a windvane if short handed and heading out across the ocean???

Any and all advice appreciated. About to buy a 1980 365 in MD. Will live aboard and sail the East Coast, then head further afield.

John