Pearson 365 and 367

I found a used C-155 on a boat recycler site a few years ago for $75. Got it powder coated and it looked like new. Note that Bomar changed the design ever so slightly during the production run--the hinge height on the old version doesn't match the updated version. You can call them and find the model year the change occurred. Here is the contact person that knew:

Tracy West
Bomar Customer Service Rep.
603-826-5791

Sorry I can't remember it.

Surprised no one's replied! Anywhere beneath the front 2/3 beneath the keel is fine. Almost 3/4--you can tap and see where it goes from hollow to solid.

Thanks, I try to do good work!
Wallas is awesome.
Marina has open slips, they would be happy to sign you up.
Yes, no problems with the V-drive
PO may have redone mast step, it looks solid to me.
Standing rigging at least 13 YO, no obvious problems but I haven't pulled chainplates.
Adler-Barbour cold machine fridge
2 2019 200 Ah Victron AGM Telecoms for house, def need replacing. Space can fit at least 400 Ah LiFePO4s. New owner may want to go bigger and surely can.
1 2020 Optima 800 CCA SC34M AGM start, starts every time, I didnt use it much until this year.
Yes, 8-gal hot water is plumbed to engine and 120V.
I'll have to go take a pic of the engine, will add to CL post by tomorrow.
Thanks for the interest!

Hull 325 is a great cruiser with extra mahogany and the teak rubrails, outfitted for the Northwest. Skookum is a very solid boat, many upgrades and everything works. I'm very sad to be selling. Would like her to go to a 365 fan.

Listing available here: https://seattle.craigslist.org/tac/boa/d/tacoma-1980-pearson-365-ketch/7786078654.html

Hi Chuck, I hope you solved this. I also had to replace pedestal cabling last month. Throttle snapped during windy docking--made for some excitement. So, I replaced both cables and am glad I did--the tranny cable was nearing the end, too. Very difficult to remove, as you found.

My SS quadrant eye bolts are (still) seized into the aluminum, but I am hopeful that alternating PB Blaster and heat gun on the aluminum will loosen them up. In the meantime, I removed one of the pulley center pins beneath the pedestal and that was the key, the slack allows you to move the chain off the pedestal sprocket and pull that cast aluminum clamp fitting up on one side of the steering wheel shaft. Check out the Edson guide, you have to get both on one side to pull that clamp out so you can remove the cables: (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=60npYH3fKlM). A long standard screwdriver helps maneuver that cast clamp fitting around. If it seems bound despite the clamp being loose, see if the plastic cable jacket is catching on a sharp metal edge as it enters the bottom of the pedestal. It seemed that pushing from below freed it when pulling from above, the jacket had caught.
I had a 6400 (5/16-24) transmission cable and a 3300 (10-32) throttle cable. The 6400 was overkill, Skookum has a velvet drive 71C1:1 that shifts with one finger at the actuator, so I replaced that cable with another 3300 (both 9 feet). Had to get an adaptor fitting to go from the skinny cable to the wider shifter clevis at the pedestal, but it actually fit better at the business end (https://bunkerhillcables.com/thread-adapter-10-32-female-thread-5-16-24-male-thread/). The 3300 has a shorter throw than a 6400 cable, so I used the lower of the two holes at the transmission lever (closer to the pivot point--same shifter range with less cable throw). Getting things routed properly is really important, took me 2x to avoid interfering with the steering chain/cable, key was to run vertically up in the aft side of the pedestal.
Reassembly of the removed pulley was hard. I got everything tight from the chain to the quadrant on the far side pulley (note that the cables cross inside the pedestal), then replaced the missing pulley with no slack to spare, took some leverage and language. Lube the pulley pins (and everything else) while you're at it. Loosening the quadrant bolts and reseating with anti-sieze is on my near-term list, it will make this way easier in the future. Once it was all back together, man the controls are so much smoother. Shoulda checked them years ago. 

+1 on Dale's advice. I figured the sheave profile wasnt going to be a problem with today's better cordage and went with 7/16 low-stretch yacht braid for main and jib halyards, and 3/8 for mizzen. So they're probably more than adequate. They dont show any wear yet, 2 to 8+ years.

The owner's manual is posted in a few places in this forum, and it has the lengths and specs. My own boat Skookum's original halyards were combo wire and rope, but I went with straight rope when replacing them.

Not much help, but the original would have been an incandescent. Replacing in-kind will incur more frequent trips up the mast. The old tricolor/multifunction system on Skookum broke loose in rough conditions (and nearly nailed my head) years ago. I replaced it with a Lunasea LED unit like this and am pretty happy with its visibility and ease of installation.

https://www.fisheriessupply.com/lunasea-lighting-anchor-fixture-and-flash-zero-ais-interference/llb-53ba-01-00

If you want to keep the original fixture an LED replacement bulb is probably your next-best option, if you can ID the fixture you have you can probably google the socket type it came with without an initial trip up the mast just to find out.

Not much posting going on lately, so here's one that might be of interest. The original 48ish gal aluminum fuel tank in Skookum developed a pinhole leak in Dec 2021. Discovered a bilge full of diesel on a boat check one weekend. Bummer.
Fortuna smiled upon me and the Coast Guard, because when I'd replaced her tiny bilge pump with stacked sipper and high-capacity bilge pumps years ago, I opted for the Water Witch bilge pump switches--they work on conductivity rather than level, and so they retained the fuel rather than pumping it into the bay. I recommend them!
After cleaning out the mess in the bilge and sucking out what was left in the tank (what a hassle), we all know from the archives that you have to cut that tank out of there unless you're up for engine removal. Diesel's not particularly ignitable, but I like a belt AND suspenders, so I rented a 4-gas meter for the weekend. Got into the port coffin and confirmed that the LEL was less than 2% and then inerted the tank to 6% oxygen with a small CO2 cylinder I had for beer brewing. Then I put the sawzall to it while my neighbor stood by with a fire extinguisher and "9-1-" dialed on his cell--a bit of excitement!
All good though. I'd mocked up dimensions in cardboard using the old FL Tanks drawings from our site, but found it just a bitch to get them in side by side without removing more underdeck steering hardware. So I shortened a half an inch in a couple dimensions then waited a couple months for delivery of two half-tanks.
To head off a future leak, I found some trim PVC strip at Lowes and made standoffs to keep the tank off the wooden framing, see the photo of gluing them in. Two tanks required a very spendy 6-port bronze valve for fuel delivery and return, and big ol 3-way for the fill. I replaced the original tank gauge view port with a removable 6" deck plate, for easy access to the valves. I looked into spending more on the 90 NPT to hose barb fittings, but decided it was probably minimal additional fire risk to go with poly for those. Your results may vary. The fabricator ignored my request for a separate NPT hole for the diesel furnace in the starboard tank, so I put in a tee in the vent line for the furnace to sip out of.
Securing the tanks with a fixed strap with rubber liner seemed dumb, so I went with some SS ratchet straps, 600 lb rated. Because the two tanks will sag towards the centerline of the boat, I put a little post under the center of the one wooden crossmember and for securement of the tanks, one strap per tank goes all the way around the inside and pulls it securely outboard, while the two hold-downs across them both look likely to withstand a rollover.
Monitoring two tanks, I went with one gauge and a rocker switch, making new use of a useless original engine control panel in the starboard lazarette wall.
So, a successful but time-consuming little project, letting me get back to gunkholing instead of major reconstruction. Hope this gives someone else an idea of what to do/not do.
Merry Christmas!

Timely. I'm halfway through replacing the tanks in Skookum. Decided not to join them below fuel level, going with a 6-port valve for draw/return and a 3-way fill valve. Based off the drawings posted on the site, I subtracted an inch in length and 1/2 inch in width for the replacements, because it was tough to get two mockups in place at the original dimensions. Can live with a bit less fuel. Attached specs, and a photo showing the start of lining the wood cradle with PVC standoff shims to prevent corrosion. Hardware store window trim. I also replaced the fuel level view port in the cockpit sole with a 5" ss access port, through which I'll be able to reach the valves to choose port or starboard tank. Today am fabricating a little panel out of starboard to fit in the old engine stop indented panel at shin height to stbd of helm. It will have a single fuel gauge, rocker switch to choose P/S tank signal, and the engine stop pull unit for my Yanmar. Hope this helps.

The 1981 P365 owner's manual shows the AC wiring in Fig. 3.3-2 for hull 406 and up. Did you check among the manuals posted here on the website? Skookum is hull 325 and it looked about the same as the '81 schematic.

Ok, here are a few pics, sorry they're not the best lighting. The duct routing was further described in a 2012 post "Forced-air diesel furnace" (can't believe it's been 8 years since I put this in).
Two hot air ducts come out of the forward end of the Wallas. One I routed down via the bilge stbd of engine/drivetrain (photo 122457) all the way forward to the stbd hanging locker in the V-berth (122837). Insulated the whole way with the rubbery sleeve they sell, it delivers enough heat to drive you out of bed in the morning. I put one wye on that line and that branch goes to an adjustable register in the head installed beneath the locker door under the sink. I should swap out the registers one of these days, since the fixed open one would do better in the head where so much drying is a good thing, and I could reduce the amount delivered in the V-berth. The to-do list always gets bigger, right?

The other branch goes forward on outboard side of the stbd lazarette, and beneath it is a cold-air return from the hanging locker aft of the nav station to the aft end of the Wallas (122505). Yes, the support straps are kinda lame. But the routing allows me to still just fit into the stbd lazarette for systems work. That hot branch is split between an open register under the nav station (122658) and another register into the saloon in front of the head discharge through-hull. There is enough room outboard of the stbd settee slideout to run this branch beneath the nav station and stbd berths.

The fresh-air supply comes into the other aft inlet via a short run from the stbd coaming ventilator. If I did it over, I'd probably add one more hot air outlet on the port side forward of the double berth. I hope this is helpful--good luck!
-Tim

I put a similarly-sized Wallas Dt40 in the aft third of the starboard sail locker. Ran the exhaust about 3' to the upper part of the starboard transom (fitting at top right in photo). Zero problems.

It seemed obvious to me, too, Dale. The mechanic did fine with the engine but seems to be out of his lane on drive shafts! This'll be a good winter project. Thanks!

Thanks for the input!