Pearson 365 and 367

I realigned my strut a while back.  The bolts are flat head machine screws, the plate is not threaded.  Be careful to not rotate the machine screw because that will break any sealant that is left.  I don't remember clearly, but I vaguely recall that the sealant was silicone.  Consider replacing the machine screws and rebed new ones.  It's probably not much more work than tightening them up and you won't have to worry if you broke the seal or not.

I updated the link to pics in that SVJourney posted so you can see more pics.

Sold!

Trooper,

Payment?  I'll send you a PM to discuss that when you are ready.

Sealing the holes is relatively easy and can be water-tight if done correctly.

Oversize/backfill as detailed in this HowTo:
https://marinehowto.com/sealing-deck-penetrations-to-prevent-core-rot/   

I deviate from the above steps...

• I try to get at least 1/2" core removed. For example, if your bolt is 3/8", then the total diameter of the excavated core is  1  3/8" (1/2" + 3/8" bolt dia. + 1/2").  The reason I remove that much is if my final holes don't line up with the original center of the oversize drill, I have some fudge factor to shift and still be within the backfilled area.
• I don't drill through the lower layer of fiberglass.  If you drill all the way through, you have to tape over the hole in the overhead and epoxy has a way of leaking past masking tape.
• Our Pearsons have a gap between the liner (the part of the overhead that you see when you are below) and the lower layer of fiberglass.  If this gap is large, the bolt pressure will deform the liner when you tighten the nuts.  You can dry to backfill into that gap, but the epoxy will run down hill through that gap. Usually that gap is nto very big and with wide backing plates, you might never notice the deformation.
• I don't fill with un-thickened epoxy, then suck it out.  I used to do that, but it's tedious and messy. I just use epoxy thicked with cabosil and milled fiber. The cabosil thickens it a bit and the milled fiber gives it weight so it flows into the excavated void.  Make sure you don't thicken it too much; otherwise, air will get trapped.
• If the oversized hole is the same size or slightly bigger than the syringe, you can insert the syringe all the way in, and lift it out as you inject the slurry.

Make sure your oversized holes don't go past the outer perimeter of the fitting you are installing; otherwise you will see that back filled area poking out and it'll look tacky.

Note: the countersinking described in the article is very important.  Do this to the overized hole after you have removed the core because resin (epoxy and polyester) needs tapered edges.  When you drill the final hole, make sure you counter sink that also (see article linked above).

Lastly, use lots of masking tape so you don't have to clean up epoxy slop/runs on your visible surfaces.

It's a compromise. We're not going to attach the main sheet to the end of the boom because that would be in the way,  so we compromise between convenience and boom stress.  Aside from the mechanical dis-advantage you mentioned, the only other reason I see for not putting the traveler on the coach roof is whether or not you have or can install adequate backing.  Where is your mainsheet now? Isn't it on the coach roof already with the triangular sheeting you mentioned?

The coach roof of my 1982  367 is a sandwich of 3/16" bottom layer of fiberglass, 3/4" end grain balsa, then the outer 3/16" fiberglass and gelcoat.  Whoever installed these risers on my boat just drilled through the overhead and used a teak backing block with silicone sealant.  There was some water damage to the core in one spot because they didn't seal it correctly, but there was no deformation of the area. So, I think the coach roof is plenty strong enough, as long as you seal the core and use an adequate backing block.

I moved mine not because of any doubts of strength, but because it was in the way of a hard dodger I built, so it's on a tube support "roll bar" (1.25" schedule 40 pipe) that puts the traveler approximately in the original location (fore/aft position). Only difference is that the traveler is not in the cockpit, but above the cockpit at the aft end of the hard dodger, see attached pic.

Harken Traveler Risers (1 Pair)
Likely Harken Part Number: 1849
https://www.harken.com/en/shop/27-mm-midrange/cb-track-riser-set/?srsltid=AfmBOopm2nmHNnwbZhKj7nCoCtktqC9uohW8pJxKnUB3XDT-sJXBLuO2

Came off my 1982 Pearson 367, age unknown, but it was an after-market installation by some previous owner.
I removed it when I moved the traveler to a different location off the coach roof.

More pictures:
https://bodylens.com/ForSale/index.php?album=Harken-Traveler-Risers

Price: $425
Location: Foley, Alabama
Pickup or buyer pays shipping

Harken Mk 1, Unit2
Series/Date stamp: 2-491
Mfg date: April of 1991
Price: 1200 for entire set
Buyer pays shipping
Location: Foley, Alabama

Removed from a 1982 Pearson 367 during complete refit
When I removed the furler, it worked very well, but I did not want to keep it because I replaced almost everything on the boat and didn't want old left-over hardware.

Link to more pictures:
https://bodylens.com/ForSale/index.php?album=Harken-MKI-Roller-Furler

Videos showing swivels work:
https://youtube.com/shorts/O8W4lDwZCPg
https://youtube.com/shorts/yf7t3xqF98Q

INCLUDED:
Manual (1)
Foils: Middle, 7' (4)
Foils: Bottom, 9' 4 1/2" (1)
Foils: Upper, 4' 7" (1)
Torque Tube (1)
Drum Assembly (1)
Halyard Swivel (1)
Locking Collar (1)
Feeder (1)
Foil Screws (24)
Foil Connecor Wedges (4)
Locking Split Cylinder (1)
Regular Foil Connecotrs (5)
Bottom Foil Connector (1)

MISSING:
Foil Connector Wedge (1)
Prefeeder (1)
Headstay terminal (1)
Torque Tube Screws (several)
Spare ScrewsTop Foil Trim Cap (1)
Screws that hold the Drum Assembly together (several)
Furler line and hardware to lead aft to cockpit


MINOR DAMAGE:
Pitting on lower flange of drum (about 1/2" diameter area)
Crushed foil groove at top end of upper foil (small damage)

A few years ago, I bought a replacement top bearing assembly for my Hood Stoway main furler from Eric Pearson and last week. Before installing it, I documented the part numbers and did some searching on the web for possible sources in case I needed another one in the future.  I think I paid around $250 or $300 for the upper bearing parts from Eric.  Unfortunately, died a while back, so it might be difficult to obtain replacement parts. Indalo Rigging apparently bought the inventory from Eric's estate (indalorigging.com/hood-furling-systems). I had a hunch that the bearing was nothing specific to the Stoway system and likely a common bearing. The bearings appear to be common bearings "self-aligning thrust bearings with a model number of 53203.

The top bearing assembly I purchased from Eric included the four parts of the thrust bearing, a washer, a nyloc nut, and a plastic shoulder washer made of black hard plastic (nylon, delrin?). I was not sure where the shoulder washer needed to be placed, so I put it at the bottom of the stack, with the smaller ID pointing down into the hole in the mast head. This formed a cork to keep the grease contained.

Although I took pictures, I did not measure the dimensions of the shoulder washer before installing, but here is the info that I can recall.

The plastic shoulder washer has these approximate dimensions (see attached diagram).

Heights A and B are equal and about 3/16"

Diameter of C (largest OD) is the same as the ID of the bottom-most part of the bearing assembly (~1.25"). This plastic bearing sits in the ID of the bottom part of the bearing.

Diameter D is about the same as the hole in the mast head through which the furler rod passes. This is about 3/4"

ID is about 7/16", which allows the furler rod to pass through. The furler rod (the part at the top that has a threaded end that goes through the top bearing), has an OD of 7/16" and has a fine thread.


I found a link on amazon and one at bearingshop.org that appear to be exactly what I have (except for the nylock nut, flat washer, and plastic shoulder washer).

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007MFXYVI...v_ov_lig_dp_it

https://www.bearingshop.org/53203-ns...ings-bore.html

These appear to be the same bearing that I installed as the new replacement and if y'all need one, you might want to give these a try instead of paying nearly 10x for what appears to be the same thing.

Wayne,
I didn't keep detailed records, but going back through receipts and memory, it probably cost between $2500 and $3000. Likely closer to or above $3000 when one factors in misc supplies and electrical/lighting. I installed lights in the dodger's overhead also.

Unfortunately, I don't have any drawings.  Even if I made drawings after wood mock up was finalized, those drawings would be invalid because I made further modifications after the fiberglass was laid up, but before fairing it out.  The fore/aft corners were too sharp, so I cut them to make a more rounded corner.


Rough breakdown of major components:

• 1708: Around 30 yards (50" wide rolls) (~ $9/yard @ USComposites (shipping rolled into that $9 price)
• Airex: 3 sheets (@ $200/sheet)
• Epoxy: 6 or 8 gallons (RakaEpoxy)
• Acrylic Windows (precut, delivered): $400
• Dome: $120
• VHB tape for windows: ?
• Dow 795: 3 rolls?
• Paint: 1/2 gallon primer, 1 gallon top coat (one part polyurethane
• Misc 2x4 and thin plywood

I made my hard dodger out of 1" Airex and 2 layers of 1708 exterior and interior with epoxy resin. Painted with 1 part polyurethane.

Dodger is positioned on coach roof around a flange that is glassed to the coach roof. This flange keeps the dodger from moving around and six bolts secure it to the flange (3 on each side). I didn't glass dodger to coachroof because I want it removable and didn't want it to tear the coach roof apart if a wave carried the dodger away.

Acrylic windows are stuck to the outside surface with 3M VHB tape and Dow 791 sealant to cover up the crude edge of the VHB and cover the edges of the acrylic panels to prevent sunlight from penetrating the edge. The forward-facing window is hinged with an acrylic hinge. Dome is clear acrylic fastened with Dow 791 only and it's positioned directly above the companionway steps so I can stand on the 2nd step and see through the dome.

Traveler is on its own stainless steel structure that is independent of the dodger and through bolted to reinforced sections of the cockpit coaming and coach roof. Tubes are made of 1.25" schedule 40 pipe, 316 SS. One design criterion is that I need to be able to trim the main if the dodger were not in place. I also did not want the loads from the main sheet tear the dodger away.

Perimeter of dodger roof has a dam to capture rain water, which drains through threaded holes at the forward corners. When needed, I screw threaded hose barbs into those holes and connect to drain hoses --> buckets.

I used 3/4" x 3/4" sticks to get the basic design structure, then added 1/8" plywood to finalize the design. Once satisfied, I screwed the Airex to the wood mold and tacked the corners and joints with fiberglass. Removed the screws and applied the 2 layers of 1708 to the exterior. Flipped it over, removed the wood, then routed out passageway for wires. Following that, I added the 2 layers to the inside. After several days of fairing inside and out, I added light fixtures (then removed). Final step was to apply paint and reinstall fixtures.

Aires was very bendy and difficult to shape with sand paper. Divinycell might have been a better choice. I tried using 1700 (no mat, but that was a nightmare to work with because it fell apart during dry fit and wet-out. I went back to 1708, which I think took more resin. Overall the dodger doesn't flex, I can stand on it, but takes two people to move it because of it's size. It's slightly heavier than I can lift, but I never weighed it.

The most time-consuming process was the design; it took months of sketches (paper and on computer) and modeling on board with sticks. I wanted to make sure it didn't look like crap and tried to ensure that it blended in with the boat. Slopes forward and that sight line intersects the bow. The height above the cockpit sole is such that I can stand and see over the top. Previous cloth dodger was higher and I hated looking through dirty windows.

I added the PDF diagrams of the windows.

More pictures: https://boat.bodylens.com/index.php?album=Dodger

Todd,

The engine is 400 to 500 lbs and sitting on a forward slope. As soon as you take some weight off the engine, gravity will will slide forward; therefore, you'll need some way to control that forward motion. Your angled chain/lever design might work for that, but test out with some line to see if you can get the angles you need without the companionway threshold interfering.  You then have to lift it a few inches up onto the cabin sole and forward about 24". Once out on the cabin sole, you just hoist it straight up. The U bracket is only needed to pull it out of the cave and put it back in; it's not used for lifting it out of the boat.

Once the underside of the engine is high enough to clear the companionway theshold, you need to move it aft so the forward side clears the companionway opening in the coach roof and slide out out into the cockpit.

Your plan will likely work to remove the engine, but, depending your motor mounts, will be difficult to reinstall because you might need more precision when sliding it aft and lowering it onto the  mounts. That is where the U bracket is very helpful.

Here are links to what I did

Removal
Removing the engine before I knew what I was doing. Almost broke fingers when the engine slid foward once I took weight off.  I added blocks/tackle on both sides to control the fwd motion, but those were inadequate; however, I managed to get it out.
https://boat.bodylens.com/index.php?album=Engine/Engine-Removal


Reinstall
Reinstalled using the U-shaped bracket. First you lower it down onto the sole, then use the U-shaped bracket to move it aft into the engine cave.
https://boat.bodylens.com/index.php?album=Engine/Rebuild/Reinstalling-in-Boat

You might try Garhauer Marine. Here are two links that might help. If you

https://www.garhauermarine.com/shop/blocks-mast-boom-blocks-hardware/fiddle-blocks-blocks-mast-boom-blocks-hardware/fiddle-blocks-with-cam-cleat-and-snap-shackle/fiddle-block-with-cam-cleat-and-snap-shackle-30-07-us/


https://www.garhauermarine.com/shop/blocks-mast-boom-blocks-hardware/single-blocks-blocks-mast-boom-blocks-hardware/single-blocks-with-becket-and-shackle/single-block-with-becket-and-shackle-30-14-us/

I copied Dale's design  and successfully moved my engine in and out a few times. Because my version is based on the pictures from Dale's work and not his actual design document, there are likely differences.

1. The 29" horizonal dimension should probably be 2" shorter because I recall it hitting the fwd end of the companionway opening and/or the aft end of the lower bar scraping on the companionway threshold. I also have a very vague recollection that the 36" dimension might have been too much, but not sure. Make a cardboard mockup to test.

2. I had to move the engine onto the sole adjacent to the nav desk with this lifter, removed the lifter, then moved it up to the cockpit, then out.

3. The two lifting eyes on the lifter have to be exactly in vertical alignment; otherwise, the weight of the engine will cause the lifter to angle/skew.


More pictures: https://boat.bodylens.com/index.php?album=Engine/Rebuild/Reinstalling-in-Boat

You might consider Reef Rite in New Zealand.  I bought one several months ago (model: 9/70) and the price was about the same as those mentioned, even with import duties/fees, which were about $300 or $400 (about 1/3 was actual duty and 2/3 fees charged by import brokers).  The then exchange rate between NZD and USD was good for me, so that helped equalize the value.  I chose Reef Rite because of the "kiwi slides" and the pawl in the drum that take the load off the furling line. I have not installed it yet, but close examination shows that it's well designed and built.


https://reefrite.co.nz/marine/head-sail-furler/head-sail-furler-prices/

The hull/deck joint is held together with the genoa track bolts, #14 flat head sheet metal screws, and some kind of caulking that is very likely no longer flexible.  I removed the teak, all fasteners, then fiber glassed the inside (epoxy resin) and outside (polyester resin).  I had numerous untraceable leaks and that was the only way I knew how to stop the leaks.  I also put all the mooring cleats on the toe rail and eliminated chafe associated with chocks.

Interior is 3 or 4 layers of 1708 with epoxy resin. On the exterior, I sanded the sheer stripe off the first 4" down and sanded the  gelcoat off the deck-side the first 4" down so the bond is with fiberglass, not gelcoat.  Laid in about 3 layers of mat with polyester resin. Once cured, I through bolted with 5/16" flathead machine screws, then glassed over the top of them with 3 layers of CSM using vinyl ester resin.  Bolts are set in Sika 291 to seal them. Two or 3 more layers of mat over the bolts to finish.  I used polyester outside because I gel coated the toe rail/deck and gelcoat doesn't work stick to /cure with epoxy.  Now, the hull/deck joint does not leak and is strong.


Regarding the bump rail.  I needed it, you might not.  I installed a rub rail from Duramax.  Duramax 100 series Tapered D-shape/Key bore, DB-50

https://www.duramaxmarine.com/pdf/DockBumperPG-100.pdf

It's held to the hull with 1/4" through bolts about every 12" with butyl tape as a sealant. I designed the bolting pattern so I could get to them in the future without removing cabinets.  Thirty foot piece on each side, starting about 2' forward of the transom and ending about 3' from the bow. I used black because I wanted continuous pieces and black is the only color with continuous (up to 60' long). I got a 60' piece and cut it in two.

I had same problem and I solved it with a support bracket.  My issue was caused by decayed core in the sole, which is made of 3/4" balsa sandwiched between two layers of fiberglass. Check to see if your sole  sags in the area of the jack shaft, if yes, then all you have to do is lift it up and insert a support bracket.  This area takes a lot of stress because it's the landing spot for people descending the companionway steps.  The after edge of this part of the cabin sole is supported by a glassed-in beam, but someone (Pearson?) cut part of that beam to make way for the jack shaft, thereby weakening that support and contributing to the downward deflection. 

Here is a link to my post detailing that work.

https://pearson365.com/forum/index.php?topic=1387.msg7550#msg7550