Pearson 365 and 367

Wayne,

Pleased that you are still active on this forum. Hope you are settling in to a " fixed address "
Appreciate your views on the project. Time will tell if I am made of "legendary " stuff. I am allowing myself plenty of time to consider my options. Thanks for taking the time to reply.

Michael.

Hi all,
I am looking for guidance to help me remove the above pulley. I need to remove the timing cover on the W40 so that I can replace the gasket. Are any special tools required? Any traps for the unwary?
Thanks.
Michael
SV Hope.
Brisbane. Australia.

Hi Dale,

Thanks for your valuable comments regarding life rafts. I will most likely rent as an interim measure.

Michael

Hello All,

I am considering the purchase of a life raft for coastal & limited offshore cruising. (Cape Horn is not on the list). I am seeking answers to the following questions.

1. Valise or container style. (or is it a matter of personal preference?)
2. The best place to locate one on a P 365.
3. Manufacturer.

Hope your summer sailing is in full swing.

Michael

Hi,

I have discovered an oil leak in the engine oil cooler where one of the hoses attaches to the cooler. The cooler is not mounted to the engine but attached to the engine bed. I would like to;
1. Remove the cooler & flush it with a 50/50 mix of water & hydrochloric acid to remove any build up of scale inside. Would I need to drain the engine oil before removal?
2. Are these coolers repairable or are they a throw away job?
3. Is there any danger of an air lock occurring on reassembly?
4. Any tips for the inexperienced?

Thanks.

Michael

Hi

Zaya, Della and Dave, Randy. Thanks for your input. After reading service bulletin #10, I was starting to convince myself that the task was beyond my level of competence. However, I am feeling more positive after reading your reply Zaya. If I never post on here again, it means things went horribly wrong, I jumped overboard and am living like Robinson Crusoe.

Cheers

Michael

I plan to replace my leaking Sherwood G 65 raw water pump with a new unit this weekend, and when time permits rebuild the old one and keep it as a spare. I have read in previous posts about the importance of " turning the engine over several times without starting it " so that the two shafts can be aligned correctly. I have three questions

1. Does one turn the engine over by hand ( and what tool is used?) or start the W 40 up but have the stop lever pulled out?

2. Is there a way to make sure that the two shafts have mated correctly?

3. Is it unwise to paint the pump?.

I am a first timer at this. Thanks in advance

Michael

Hi,

Whilst replacing the thermostat on my W40 I noticed some "crud" & sludge in the cylinder head. I would like to flush this out before I put in the new coolant. Would a radiator flush (from an auto store) or CLR be appropriate for the job? Any advice for a newbie would be appreciated. Thanks.

Regards

Michael

Hi folks,

Has anyone replaced the fresh water circulation pump on the W40 with the Perkins equivalent? If you have, is there a part number & 
supply source that you know of? I am told that there are two pumps that have been used on the Perkins 4.107, one has a 15mm shaft & the other a 16mm shaft. Not sure which one is suitable. Thanks

Michael

Randy, Jim S & jackjanos, thanks heaps for your advice. To all you folks who pass on your experience with these beautiful boats; Thanks. This is a great forum. I am on a steep learning curve. It is my goal to make sure that everything on my P365 runs smoothly. Do not wish to be in a situation where I paraphrase a line form a well known American movie " Pearson, we have a problem"

Cheers

Michael

Allen, thanks for the tip.

Michael

Gents, thanks for your input.

Jim, why would the impeller need to be removed if I was to adopt your suggestion?

Wayne, would there be an issue with the water pressure from the tap? (either too much or too little) I understand one can purchase water pressure regulators if it were necessary.

My concern is with reducing a build up of scale and corrosion prevention in the V Drive and other areas which are affected by salt water cooling.

Cheers

I am interested in opinions on flushing the W40 whilst the boat is in the water with access to fresh tap water. The heat exchanger & transmission oil cooler have anodes attached (which I check on a regular basis) but the V drive has no such protection. I have seen a Groco SSC engine flush kit, but I am not sure how effective they are. Thanks in advance.

Michael

The heat exchanger actually measures 3"x14.5". It sits above the flywheel housing, and the anode screws into an opening on the right hand side of the unit when viewing the set up from the companionway. There is another hose in the starboard bottom which appears to be taking the cooling seawater (?) to the exhaust elbow. (If I have got that figured correctly) Thanks.

Hello and greetings from "down under''

I have discovered that my Seakamp Heat Exchanger (HE) is missing its zinc anode. Where the anode is supposed to be screwed in, the previous owner has connected a short hose which runs from the HE to the PSS shaft seal. Is this an acceptable way to provide lubrication to the shaft? (at the expense of the HE) If I should change this, is there a preferred way to set it up?

Thanks in advance
Michael