Pearson 365 and 367

This straight from the Edson website

Q4: My throttle doesn't hold when I push it full forward - what can I do?
A4: Some Engine have a very tight spring on the throttle lever. Depending on the Engine Control Model, you may be able to tighten the Throttle Friction Adjuster. Older controls may not have this adjuster, but a "horseshoe" cable-clamp can easily and inexpensively be clamped around the outer jacket of the engine control cable to add the proper cable resistance.

Does anybody know the dimensions for the mizzen staysail. What is the maximum size that will work? What is practical? What to avoid?

NormP

About 8 years ago, I installed a 25 gallon holding tank between the forward water tank and the end of the cutout in the V birth. It was a bit of a trick cutting away the bottom of the V birth and then rebuilding it after the installation. The tank runs across the boat and is rectangular. I sent the dimensions to Ronco Plastics in Southern California and they made the tank with the fittings where I indicated. I have had no issues with it at all. It is well wedged in there and can't go anywhere. Since then, I have installed a composting head so that now the only thing that goes in there is pee. The plumbing is a combination of rigid PVC and the white hose from Marine Sanitation. The pumpout is where the old port water fill was. I moved the port water fill forward so that it would be uphill from the holding pumpout. I have not had any problems with odors.

I installed a Reef Rite system from New Zealand. I have had it just under one year. The system does not use luff tape on the sail. Instead slides (kiwi slides) are sewn onto the luff. The foil has two tracks for the kiwi slides. The sail goes up much like the mainsail slides. Dropping the sail is no different than with a hanked on jib. About 4ft up the foil, there is a gate that can be twisted to open the tracks. With the gate open, a second sail can be loaded onto the bottom section of foil track. Close the gate and drop the old sail, then raise the new sail. Finally open the gate and remove the old slides and sail from the bottom section of the foil track and close the gate. Sail changes are easy.

Another feature that I really like ( actually I more than like it) is the locking pin. In order to unfurl the sail, a locking pin has to be pulled. This is done with a trip wire back to the cockpit. When furling, the pin ratchets as you furl. Thus as the sail is furled, it cannot unfurl. When reefing, there is no need to use the furling line to hold the reef in place, just furl until the size is as desired, sheet the sail in and go. To shake out the reef, pull the pin and unfurl the sail.

As I said, I have had it less than a year and so far I am pleased.

In the back of my manual for the westerbeke 40, aka Perkins 4-108, is a service bulletin. This all came from the previous owner.

The bulletin is about replacing the raw water pump. When reinstalling it, tighten the bolts snugly but not to final torque. Turn the engine over several times without starting it. Then tighten the bolts to the final torque.

What this does is align the pump shaft with the engine driving shaft. If shafts are not co-centric, the turning will move the pump body to bring them into alignment. Once this is done, the pump body can be fixed in place by the final tightening the bolts.

Seems like good advice to me.

NormP

Ya Sure

60 Gal fuel tank


Here are the rough dimensions for the 60 gal tank. It fits through the stbd cockpit locker. I had to lop off the aft corners at an angle to get clearance to fit down into place. It fits all the way across between the stringers. Build a 1/8 plywood mock up with hot glue and duct tape to see how it fits. Modify as necessary. There is about 20 in clearance on top to the bottom of the cockpit. There is easy access to the engine and the big inspection port on the top of the tank. There is one baffle fore to aft down the middle of the tank. I don't have drafting software so the drawing is the best I can do. If somebody wants to do a real drawing, I would be interested in a copy. The letters should match to fit it together. You may have to flip some pieces over. The pieces will fit onto one 4ft by 8ft sheet of aluminum.

I don't know how to get the drawing into this posting. It is part of a word document.

I will email it as an attachment to anybody interested.

PS I also have pictures of removing the rudder shoe and replacement of the rudder bearing.  

 

NormP

Ya Shure

365 hull 19

When I first bought Ya Shure, I installed a 25 gal holding tank in the space between the forward water tank and the forward end of the V berth cutout. Ronco in California custom made it. I sent them the measurements and they made for less than $100 including fittings. It has worked perfectly with no smells. Last year I installed a AirHead composting head. It has been in for about 9 mo. I still have not had to empty it. The pee goes into a separate tank which I rigged to a pump and Y valve to go either to the holding tank or overboard. I am happy with it so far, however it sits a little high in the platform. The biggest hassle is to install the vent hose and fan. I ran it up behind the sink then behind the shower to the dorade vent. Not easy to do. That was the best I could figure out.

How much water does the engine pump? What happens if you all of a sudden pump it dry?

NormP

Hi Phil,

I installed a Borg Warner 71C. It is a 1:1 ratio. I talked to Walters Machine about it and they said using a reduction will overpower the Vdrive. It has been a while so I am trying to remember everything. You have to install a transmission oil cooler/heat exchanger with the raw water system. It is bigger and heavier than the Paragon. You will have to make more room below and it would not hurt to to add a mount for it (I didn't). It is longer so the jack shaft must be shortened. Not a big deal since it is adjustable (at least mine is). I seem to remember having to buy a new U joint coupling to match the bigger BW coupling. Finally consider the damping plate on the flywheel. Replace it with a new one that is designed for the BW. I replaced the damping plate with a new one for the Paragon. Don't do that.  The damping plate is crucial for reducing torsional vibration reduction at idle and no load conditions. The BW is a tight fit and will be hard to install and remove without cutting something away. I put mine on before installing the re-engine and have not had to remove it yet. I am deciding now whether or not to change the damping plate. If you remove the bell housing be careful of the shims on the bolts to the engine. They are there to align the mating surface to the transmission. The surface has to be flat and perpendicular to the shaft rotation by a pretty small amount. You may want to check it with a dial indicator. By the way the bolt pattern is all set for the 71C. The two bottom bolts are actually studs that allow the transmission to be slid onto the bell housing. As usual, alignment is very important. The U joint allows for quite a bit of angular slop, however axial alignment to the Vdrive is important. The Vdrive input can take some misalignment, check the specs from Walters. The Vdrive alignment to the shaft is the least forgiving. Just be sure that everything can be align within the specs. Walters has all of the alignment requirements. As you can see, it is not just a drop-in replacement. That is all I can remember, hope that helps.

NormP
Yashure
Portland OR

Several years ago I rebuilt my 4-108. I also changed from the Paragon to a Borg Warner hydraulic transmission which requires an oil cooler. I bought a dual heat exchanger for the oil and transmission. When I plumbed it I first went through the oil heat exchanger and then the engine. Now I am having second thoughts, and I am thinking about going through the engine first. I haven't had much luck getting information on which way to go. Does anybody have insight on which way is best? I do know that the two fluids exchanging heat need to be flowing in opposite directions.

NormP
Portland OR