Pearson 365 and 367

Thank you Dale, for your answer which helps me a lot.
I won't fill the cavities. I agree with you, it's worked like this for over 40 years, so I'll let it. This is truly a well designed boat! I will plug the holes and put in fiber patches and I will try to create a new vacuum before plugging the last hole (after the first hole I heard no more call of air).

Thanks.

Stéphane

Hello,

Do you know if it's normal there is space between the keel and the fiberglass shell that surround it?
I have a Pearson 365. I'm at the fairing and tapping at the keel sounded hollow in places. I drilled a few small holes in the fiber. On the first, there was an air call. On the second, a little lower, water flowed, perhaps 1 gallon. It's not seawater, and it's clear. Maybe it's been condensation for 47 years...?
So I wonder is the fact that the hull is not glued to the keel original? Should I fill these spaces with epoxy resin or leave as is? Filling these spaces may provide unintended rigidity to the design.
Are there any keel bolts?

Thanks for your answers.

Stéphane

Hi Pete,

Thanks a lot for your help. I am going to verify the 15 degree angle between both shafts. My engine is aligned, maybe not perfectly, but there was no vibration in V-Drive. To modify the engine bed I had first cut out a section of the sole to clear the shaft and see its amplitude angle to determine approximately the middle (plan below). Then, helped by a mechanic, he made a false shaft which fixed on the V-Drive. He used a set of thickness gauge for the alignment.
With the rigid shaft I am anyway going to re-verify the alignment.
Thank you for the link to the V-drive installation. I have asked Walter Machine 2 times to have a technical description of the V-drive and they send me nothing.

Stephane

The photo with the coupling shaft after I have passed in forward gear without lowering the speed. I'm going to put a single lever of control.
But with that shaft I couldn't go faster than 1800 rpm. That flexible coupling is good if the shaft is not also heavy. Another solution is to put a shaft bearing, but I shall like keeping a shaft the simplest possible.
With the mechanic we are going to keep that rigid shaft without the flexible coupling. In the 70s, by putting the double tube with silent block, they thought maybe "what can do the big things, can do the little things as well".
What do you think about that? Have you a rigid shaft?

Stéphane

Hi,

The V-drive has just been restored. I have made make a tubular shaft here, but what I would like is a tubular shaft like the original. It is with an outside tube, an internal tube and silent blocs or rubber bing between the two tubes. It is for a torque mechanical cushioning.
But I'm not sure that Walter do these 2 tubes.
Maybe on others Pearson 365 it wasn't that system?
This system had a reason for being, then with the new engine I would like to restart sailing with something good.
It's to "protect" the V-drive.
Or maybe it isn't essential...?

Regards

Stéphane

Hi,

The photos don't pass... Nevertheless they are very small. It doesn't matter.

The company Walter Machine has sent me an answer:

Thank you for your email.  Generally you can replace the 1" diameter splined shaft (#27 shaft, $115) which goes into the V-Drive as well as the universal joint on the opposite end of the tubular shaft ( $36.00).
If you need the entire tubular shaft, approximate cost is $2,400.00.
Sincerely,

For them it is not essential to put the same tubular shaft that at the origin.
What do you think about that?

Regards

Stéphane

Hi,

Thank you Dale for the website. I have sent them a mail.
Saddened for my English not perfect.
I have bought a new engine, Westerbeke 44C. The driveshaft between the engine and the V-drive was rusty and had a big hole. The mechanic has kept the extremity (side V-drive) and has made a new driveshaft with a coupling flector (photos). But with that system I couldn't accelerate more than 1800 rpm. At that speed the coupling don't stay in the axis.
And last week for my first sail test since 4 years, I have done a mistake in the marina with the two engine's control and the coupling was out of order...
What appear for me like the only solution is to find a driveshaft like the original.
Thanks for your helps.

Regards.

Stéphane

Ps: I try photos in a next post

Hi,

The transmission between the engine and the V-Drive is in poor condition and can't be rebuilt. I need to change it. I live in New Caledonia and I don't find any torque tube. Someone has said to me I can find it for the cars. Have you an address or an internet site where I can find it?

Thanks a lot.

Stéphane

Oh Phil. Yes I'm the Steph from Noumea. Nice to hear from you. I write you in private message.
Yes I agree, saildrive would be a lot of work and it isn't indispensable. But I prefer buy a new engine. Rebuilt the old one would cost more than the half of the price of a new one. And to buy a second-hand, on e-bay for example, I don't trust. I don't know the history of the engine and I want to go back serene on sea.
Thank you for your answers.
The mechanic who has worked on my old engine say me today that the ratio of the hydraulic gear is 1/1 in forward gear and 1/1.18 in reverse!!  But the 44B is apparently only 2/1 reduction. I'm going to ask the salesman. Then I think I forgot that engine.
That shall suppose that the engines of person 365 don't have all the same gears?
The mine is probably a paragon, and is hydraulic.

Stéphane

Hello,

I'm going to change the engine Westerbeke W40 and will probably take a Westerbeke W44B, which is 7hp more powerfull. Can I have trouble with my V-Drive that I don't change? If you have repower your boat, have you change the V-drive to put a saildrive? If yes how is the comportement of the boat with the saildrive?

Thanks

Stéphane