Pearson 365 and 367

Thanks for posting. Can you put the URL up so we can see the article?  Thanks.

Dale, you may have found it for me. My starboard v-berth and my head portlights have been leaking. I just realized that there is an empty space between the outer hull and the inside,  molded liner. I think this must be where the water was getting in. While I wait for new gaskets and then re-bedding of the inner portlight frame, I have both of them securely covered with heavy plastic. There's more rain on the way, so I'll dry out the water that's below now and see what happens now that now water cannot leak in through the portlights. I'll post again when I know.

Best,
Mark

Randy, I guess I need to get up the mast sometime soon and take a look, as here in the SF bay area we are getting a lot of heavy rain. Any suggestions about how to prevent the water entry? I read in a cruising book of mine that using a big glob of modeling clay, the kind kids play with, is a great way to plug the anchor chain pipe to prevent water getting into the chain locker.

Ok, I'll check these spots. Thanks. I just had the cabinet panels off last week, but didn't see any water. But it's been raining a lot since then. I'll look in the locker in the v-berth. Look in them all for that matter.

M

I've noticed that after a period of heavy rain there is a collection of water up to around 1/2" that pools  just aft of the mast step for around 5' or so aft. As far as I know there is no water getting down there from a portlight or from a through-hull or the head since for the present I have no running water in the head basin. In summer/dry months there is never any water down there. I was told today that this water is somehow getting down the inside of the mast even though my halyards are all on blocks attached to the mast, not led in and out through sheaves. Any thoughts would be appreciated.

Happy holidays to all.

Mark

Ron: I found this discussion on propane water heaters at Cruisers Forum. Propane might be a good solution at least while not underway.

I'm still hoping someone will read this and help me get squared away re-installing my Raritan, though.

http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/f115/propane-water-heater-59198.html

My Raritan 6 gallon was removed from its perch in the starboard cockpit locker when the new engine and wiring was begun many months ago. Unfortunately, the fellow that took it all apart is not available to reinstall it and I'm not comfortable doing the plumbing and wiring myself without a bulletproof "recipe" of how to do it properly so that the engine can heat the water but also not "fool" the engine thermostat, etc. Can anyone show me exactly how I ought to do this? Not to create a new challenge to any of you who might help, but I'm really adverse to doing things "in the dark" and then wondering if I've created a new problem I'll later pay for in spades.

Thanks,
Mark

Sailin, I recently installed a full size tank the specs of the original. I needed to remove some of the cabinetry under the companionway steps, but it did go in and is installed in an "enclosure" that may/not be what was original to the boat. I investigated poly tanks before having a new aluminum tank made -and can provide info on that if you like. My discovery at the website of a major poly tank mfgr is that they cannot be modified in any way due to the nature of the poly. You may want to check this out for yourself, but I felt sure enough that I would not purchase one.

Let us all know what you come up with, since any original tank will probably need replacement after all these years.

Mark

Scratch my request for tips on removing the viewer plate/lens. The cover with lens intact just came out as I wanted. Just needed a little more effort and a bigger hammer! (kidding about the hammer, of course).

Cockpit floor deck plate:

I need to temporarily get my cover and lense out so that I can use the opening to pull on the engine that is being installed. The screws on the plate came out so easily but the plate itself hasn't budged even with some gentle prying around its edges. Can anyone give me tips on how to get this thing out so I can run a nylon strap through it to the newly rebuilt engine and help slide it onto its rails. Work will begin tomorrow, Monday 9-24. Jeez, I thought this thing would come right up but it hasn't so far.

Thanks,
Mark

Good morning guys,

Thanks for the info, which goes into the file for this project. I'll need to put things off for a while though, since the marine electrician who is straightening out my electrical system is charging $72- p/h and the mechanic who is about to install my rebuilt engine will be getting $110- p/h!!!! This is very serious money as you know, so every other purchase is on hold. So, I'll just need to keep prioritizing (and doing without lots of things).

Mark

I too am interested in any first hand cruising experience with an AIS system.

Mark

I have the same dilemma, since I know from bay racing that the traveler is hugely important in upwind sailing. My sloop, 1980 # 345 has a simple block attached along the center line just forward to the companionway. Simple and easy but not much help for being close hauled. I have seen photos where there is a block on each side of the cabin top that allows the boom to be hauled in to center line, but I cannot recall where.

Experience from the group will be appreciated.

Mark

Quote from: Leo on August 08, 2008, 08:44:15 AM
Not cheap but one of the best upgrades I did on Sol.

http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee34 ... G_0237.jpg

Leo, can you tell please tell me where you found these portlights?

Thanks,

Mark

Carl,

Welcome to the group, Carl.

Based upon what I was told by the previous owner, routing shower and and sink to the bilge sump will give rise to undesirable odors and growths. However, I cannot verify this; just passing on data.

Mark