Pearson 365 and 367

Sorry - having problems uploading to the site. I can send photos to anyone interested via email.

Also, now includes an additional headsail I'd forgotten about. So $500 plus mail will get you 4 sails. All freshly cleaned and repaired by SailCare.

http://sfbay.craigslist.org/sby/boa/4696738754.html

photos!

All,

What % would a genoa 39 ft.-9 in. X 22 ft.-1 in. or 439sq ft be?

Is this 110% or 130%?

Any ideas?

List of things done, in addition to the cleaning. These sails are in really good shape!

MAIN
TELLTALES
SEW NUMBERS
REPAIR POCKET ENDS
OVERLAY LEECH ENTIRE SMALL
TACK GROMMETS BAD @ CLEW

GENOA #1
TELLTALES
NO OTHER REPAIRS FOUND ON INITIAL INSPECTION

MIZZEN
OVERLAY LEECH & FOOT ENTIRE SMALL
TOUCH UP TACK
RESET BOLT ROPE
TACK, GROMMET & CLEW, REEF GROMMET

Thanks

Heading to my storage unit tomorrow - I'll get them out and take photos for you and everyone else who is interested.

Ewan

refurbished by Sailcare in 2009 and never used. Main, Genoa and Mizzen. Hank on.

Trade for two Lewmar Ocean 60's flange base hatches in good condition or offers?

Currently on the west coast, but I'm happy to ship to you if you pay for it.

Update: SOLD to Dave & Della!

Happy New Year!!!

AFAIK, the Cape Horn supports this specific configuration as a stated feature. I have not used one like this, so I must qualify my statement.

Since my original post, I have added some reinforcement to the portlights in the form of 6mm marine ply to extend the cabin sides. This has reduced the bowing significantly - replacing the brace will likely improve the cabin top strength further.

Ewan

All,

I have just started cleaning up my topsides in preparation for painting. I have uncovered extensive gel coat crazing towards the bow. Does anyone else have a similar issue? I am concerned that the bow may have flexed excessively with her PO.

Anyone have anything to share?

Actually, I have tested the roof with a hammer, and it sounds good.

When I pulled the hand rails, I found only a little rot, around the base of the rails. I am not sure if it is delaminating - but I will check. This all started when I removed the sea hood (and the reinforcing bar) and the portlights, and the hatches, so I think it may be related to that, as opposed to the more significant issue.

I see one of the new photos on the site actually has a post in the galley to support the shelving.

Strenue, my renamed ketch, is on the hard, and will be for the winter. I have stripped off all her deck hardware to fill every hole in her core with epoxy. It has taken me some time to get to this point, and during the course of this period, my roof has begun to bow in above the galley. NOT GOOD.

Has anyone had a problem with this? I am not especially keen on cluttering up the galley with a supporting pillar, unless I have to.

There is a white tube through the base of my mizzen to route the cables. Of course, it does create a 90 degree cable bend directly above the engine, so you need to route carefully.

I have seen a gooseneck that exited near the base of the mizzen too, on another 365 based here in Portland.

I took one additional step - I have replaced my running backstays with low-stretch Vectran covered with heat shrink tubing...

We'll see how long it lasts!

Speaking for Rich - I believe he used Martek Davits?

All,

I am sizing out a solar installation for my ketch, and I am considering where I should mount my panels. To date, I have seen two ways of mounting panels that I like:

1. Rich's davit-mounted Kyocera's(?) on Third Day which I believe are 110W panels - two of course. These fit great, but I have made a decision not going to install davits.

2. Drew's hard-dodger mounted panels on Dosia, which are smaller, (2x)40W if I remember?

I will have an Air-X on my mizzen as well, and I will likely install a Balmar to complete the picture. My question is where to put the panels?

Are there any other installation experiences out there?

Thanks

Talk to Teri:

nfm@newfoundmetals.com

She will lend you a template for your ports for $100 deposit. This makes the job much easier - and you get the $100 if you return it in 30 days. You use Butyl window tape to seal things up, make sure you use their fasteners with some lanokote to prevent seizing, and you should be in good shape, other than the dent in the wallet, of course!

It is a Henderson Mk5, now made by Whale. I found a rebuild kit for mine at an online store in Canada. A couple of things:

1. If you do a rebuild, get smooth-walled bilge hose and a non-return valve for the bilge. If you don't have the non-return valve, it is almost impossible (actually completely impossible) to get the pump primed and pumping. The head (the vertical rise) is just too big.
2. I am follow Drew from Dosia's lead and reinforcing the bulkhead around the pump with a sheet of plywood infused with epoxy. I think its a cheap way to improve the stability of the pumping action.
3. I am putting another Henderson Mk5 in the cabin, just in case! I am mounting it foreward of the starboard side water tank, so the bilge can be pumped manually inside in the event of an electrical failure. Once again, I'll be strengthening the bulkhead and using smooth-walled hose and a non-return valve.