Pearson 365 and 367

Check out New Found Metals in Port Townsend, WA for replacement Portlights. 

I went to a free-footed full batten main 6 years ago using a Strong Slide Track system.
I am very happy with the change.
You get a much better sail shape and performance and with the Strong Slide Track System it is very easy to raise and lower the main.

Hi Mike,

Welcome to the 367 ownership.  I have hull #46, named FarAway.  Have had FarAway going on 22 years.  It's nice to see you got a 367 in such beautiful condition.  You'll enjoy the boat.  The 367 is a joy to sail and a very capable world cruiser with a few modifications.

If you have any questions about outfitting and upgrades feeel free to contact me.

Safe sailing,
Lou

Bad advice given here should not be tolerated.  I would suggest that before giving advice one should really take the time to investigate the question.

I quote from the Pearson 367 Manufacturers Manual.

Figure 3.1-2  Dated - Jan. 5, 1981

"Your boat is equipped with a tie rod which runs from the mast collar at the deck partner to the mast step."

"The tension should never be over tightened.  The nut on deck should be finger tight with the boat at rest and the rigging properly adjusted."

I believe this would apply to the P-365 as well.  Maybe someone with a 365 manual can look it up.

In the manual on my cutter it says to only slightly tighten the rod, not put it under high tension.

Had the same problem many years ago, rebuilt mine. 
It would probably be cheaper to just rebuild the V-Drive then tp purchase another, depending on its condition.  Tear it down and take a look.  In all likelihood any used one you find will require servicing as well.

Congratulations Ed. I have owned my 367 'FarAway' (hull number 46) for over 18 years and love the boat.  I have done extensive work and changes on my boat and am currently cruising in Mexico.  If you have any questions feel free to ask.

Lou

I didn't know about the one in Minnesota.  The one I was referring to was either in Florida or the Carolina's.  Not sure which, it was over 14 years ago when I was mailed photos by the owner.  If you post a photo or a link of the boat I would know for certain.

Moving the forestay forward to get rid of the weather helm was the most important thing.  Having the great anchor platform was an added bonus.
I can keep all sails up in 20 to 25 knots of wind with very little weather helm.  I can steer her with one finger even though she is a bit over powered.  I have no lee helm to worry about.  The actual extension is 20 inches.  There was one other guy on the east coast who did a similar change to a 365 pilot house with the same results.
Attached is a photo of the bow from above.

Here is my solution.

Tried calling the number you listed to talk about the Pro Furl but the number is no good.  I am interested, get back to me and let's talk.

Lou

I removed my forward water tank and moved the bottom portion of the chain locker bulkhead aft to allow the chain to fall further down.  I made the lower bulkhead watertight and added a bronze strainer with a 1 1/2" hose that runs back to the sump.  All the water that comes into the chain locker then runs back to the sump and is pumped overboard by the bilge pump.

One of the things to be aware of is that rudder stuffing box leaks (at least in the 367 cutter) tend to drip onto the back side of the fuel tank and water collects between the rubber seal and the tank at the point that the tank sets on seal.  In salt water this will cause corrosion and eventually eat through the tank.  Especially the aluminium tanks. 
I know this from experience.  I have replaced two tanks in the eighteen years I have owned my boat.  The last tank I put in has six layers of tar epoxy coating it to keep it from corroding ever again and it is also bedded in Irish Cloth which tends to wick away water.  I also found that the factory did not do a good job in installing the original stuffing box.  It was finished rough and the flange did not seat properly.

The statement in a previous post that, "The best advice I can give for electrolysis is get a galvanic isolator.", was not completely accurate.  The best thing you can do to isolate the shore power is to use an isolation transformer.  An isolation transformer breaks the shore connection completely by transferring the power through a magnetic field.  The so called galvanic isolators sold for marine use don't actually "isolate" you from anything.  They do block DC stray current through the diode used in the circuit, but they do not block AC current.
Galvanic isolators are prone to failure and most of them on the market have no indicator to tell you they have failed.  You may have one installed thinking you are blocking DC current and in reality it may have failed months ago.  The only ones approved by ABYC are the ones with an indicator that shows it has failed, these typically run around $300.00 or more.  Galvanic isolators also do nothing to protect from electrical shock.  AC stray currents in the water around boats at docks kill people every year.  Galvanic isolators do nothing to prevent this.  Only isolation transformers block both DC and AC currents and protects from shock hazards.  If you truly want to have the safest system on your boat and extend the life of your zincs, then install an isolation transformer not a galvanic isolator.

I am extremely happy with my Blue Sea Panel and every other Blue Sea product I have purchased.  They are well thought out and very reliable products.
I agree with Dale, "...go big or go home...".  Beside my main AC/DC panel I have three additional panels, one six breaker and two three breaker panels, not including two bilge pump panels, one windlass breaker, one hooka dive compressor breaker, one hydronic diesel heater breaker and solar and wind generator controllers. 
I also agree with Dale about thinking and rethinking your installation and all the possible systems you may install down the road that will need electrical connection.
If I was to do it all over again I would seriously consider going with a custom panel.
I opened up and expanded the area next to the chart table to build out my system and I have a computer drawing of each terminal buss, color coding and clearly identifying each wire. 
I did the opposite.  I originally had a quarter berth and converted it into a lazarett and wet locker and enlarged and improved the nav station.
If you would like some photos of my system I can email them to you.

Lou
Captain s/v FarAway