Pearson 365 and 367

Thanks Len!

Does anyone know where I can buy a new decompression lever and cable for my 1983 Cutter?  I can't find any part numbers or pictures of it in the manuals.   I'm not even sure whether this is the correct name for it or if it's original to the boat.  It's a red knob on the starboard side near the floor of the cockpit where it could easily be kicked and broken off like mine was.  The cable it attaches to is frozen also, and the whole thing needs to be replaced.  Hopefully it's an easy job.

Funny this topic came up just as I was removing my holding tank.  Sleeping in the v-berth was not possible unless you drank enough rum to pass out as soon as you hit the pillow. The tank looked like it was worn out so I ordered a new one from Trionic Corp S-H2014-1 with 3/8" walls (rather than the standard 1/4") and an optional 3" diam. cleanout on top. This tank will be the same size as the one I removed:  14" x 20" x 11.75" (14 gal.).  Someone here said to buy the best fittings, but I don't know what "best" means.  Anyone know?  I plan to replace all the hoses with OdorSafe Plus and install a vent filter.  Thanks for the advise about the Rectorseal and double clamps.  I also heard that you should only flush fresh water. I use my shower head and will keep doing so, although that apparently was not the problem.  I'll let you know how all this works out. 

OK guys, I'm working on the cutlass bearing project.  Got the shaft off and the old one out.  Guess what, the 367 doesn't have the same size cutlass bearing as the ketch, at least not mine.  I'll let you know when I figure it out so someone else reading this this doesn't buy the wrong one like I did.

Does anyone know what material should be used to fill the large hole in the hull around the bronze strut on my 367?  I'm talking about the molded recess where the strut attaches to the exterior of the hull.  I'm doing epoxy repair work on the hull right now and it was very easy to chisel out the existing packing around the strut that felt like a hard plaster.  The strut is in fair condition and is not loose, so I don't intend to replace it right now.  It doesn't seem like a good idea to fill the recess with epoxy filler because it will be a nightmare to get out if I ever have to replace the strut. 

Thanks everyone, we finally got the prop off! 

This looks like a really nice site for advise about replacing a cutlass bearing:  http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/replacing_a_cutlass

[http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/replacing_a_cutlass]

3 strong guys worked with a puller and torches today, but no luck.  Is there a key in the prop that has to come out first?   

Thanks everyone for your help!

I'm trying to do this cutlass bearing job but can't get the prop off!  Sprayed lots of WD40, heated it with a torch, and used a rubber mallet, but no luck.  Any ideas?  Is there a special tool for this?

367  Hull # 45

Hi.  I need to change the cutlass bearing on my 1983 Cutter (Kwaheri # 45) and am wondering if anyone knows the dimensions and where to purchase one.  The parts list in my manual is confusing to me.  It says that Part # 21143 is a "Cutlass bearing 1", P-39."  Listed next is Part #21145 "Cutlass bearing 7/8" x 1 3/8" x 3 1/2 " for propeller shafts for P-30, P-33, P-35."  I think my shaft and strut are original, but these dimensions don't seem right.  My manual is the same one as SeaDragon has posted, Dated 10-1-81.    I found another post on this site that has the dimensions for the ketch's cutlass bearing, but they don't seem right either.

Thanks, Ann

Thanks for your responses.  I'll be sure to fasten the rigging securely to the mast. Unfortunately, the local boat haulers don't own trailers that are long enough to carry my mast next to the boat like you suggested. To clarify, the other boaters I was talking about have non-hinged masts that are shorter and lighter than mine and a crane pulls them up and then lowers and guides the mast to lie on top of the boat and it's lashed down and transported home, right on top of the boat.  I have a crane lined up to lift my mast out also, but I'm afraid that if they put my heavy mast it on top of my boat, like they do with the lighter and shorter unhinged masts, it might break my bow pulpit, cabin top, and/or push pit.

Hi,

I am the new and happy owner of a 1983 - 367 and this will be my first time having my boat and mast transported about 2 miles to my house for the winter. Most of the sailors around here that bring their boats home get their masts pulled and then lowered by the boom so that it lies on top of the boat supported by the bow pulpit, cabin top, and aft push pit; all cushioned with fenders.  Sometimes they elevate it a little higher up to serve as a tarp support.  However, it seems to me that the 367 mast would be much too heavy and long to do this without damage to my boat.  Our boat yards here don't have room to store it.  Any advise would be much appreciated.

Annie