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Messages - Shacklepin

#1
Hi there SV Azimuth,
After a lot of deliberation and consultation with highly knowledgeable salts a decision was made to get used to the groaning. It takes a bit of getting used to but one does in fact it becomes quite comforting.
As it couldn't be determined as to whether the bulkheads were supposed to be able to move in their slots or not, several opinions were voiced about generating stiff points an hence stress points where none are supposed to be. I have stiffened up the central cabin by adding floor to ceiling posts which eliminated a lot of noise at the aft to central area it is only the V birth bulkhead that groans and, as I said previously, I'm happy it does. My option was to run an angle grinder into the gap and inject a thick epoxy filler. But never did. Please tell me your thoughts. Regards.
#3
Hi Neried,
I'll get some picture neit time I'm there.
#4
Can anyone recommend a carpenter to make some companion way doors in the Kemah area?
#5
Not a wise choice unless you can brace them just below the bend.
#6
Not too long ago a dear friend and I sailed Ebb Tide, my 1982, 367 Cutter, to Cuba and back from Kemah near Galveston in Texas. The return journey from Havana via the Dry Tortugas was exceptional and the most enjoyable sailing I've done in my 40+ years afloat. A broad reach in 18 knot winds built to 40knts after 5 days, with 20ft seas. Ebb Tide handled it like a dream even filling the cockpit on two occasions, however downstairs she screamed like a banshee !! The noise coming from the bulkhead to liner interface. Aft, I have reinforced the cabin roof by installing a couple of compression posts one from the half bulkhead by the Nav desk and another vertually opposite between the corner of the fridge and the roof. These are both screwed and glued and reinforce the rigidity of the hull amidships. The noise was coming from the vebirth bulkhead and the shower bulkhead for and aft.
My thoughts are to inject epoxy into the gaps either side of the bulkhead channel to fix these things n place.
Thoughts please.
#7
This is probably a task that has never been undertaken before. My boat is suffering from core failure in the cockpit so it is my intention to remove the upper layer of fiberglass ( the cockpit sole) and re core it. I will also fit two watertight hatches to afford greater access to the engine. To do this I must remove the helm completely.
Please advise on the problems I may face if I relocate the helm 6-10 inches aft of its present position.
Pro's : more space in the cockpit forward of the helm, more room to fit a table, a wheel which is easier to reach when sitting on the lazerette hatch.
Con's : reconfigure the cables, are the angles workable with the quadrent.
#8
Chandlery / Re: WANTED : DAVITS
July 25, 2017, 12:14:08 PM
Hi,
Sorry it's taken so long to get back to you. I imagine the shipping alone from Washington to Houston will exceed the price I'm prepared to pay, as I can buy a generic set on line for $1000.
Thank you for getting back to me. If we can do it for less than that - give me a call, 8322569300. Cheers.
#9
Chandlery / WANTED : DAVITS
February 19, 2017, 12:16:42 PM
Wanted : DAVITS. Has anybody never used their davits and just has them burried in storage? Or just wants to get rid. If so I'm looking for the s/s tube type that fits into the brackets in the stern rail uprights.
Please contact me through this site or call 337-577-7798. Cheers.
#10
Once again Guys Thank you for the advice. My Rod is definitely slack but before I tension it I may attempt to feed some epoxy into the upper bulkhead grooves. The Jury is still out on this one. Maybe I should tension the rod and see what effect it has first.  Thanks.
#11
Pearson 365/367 Mechanic Shop / Re: Water pump pully.
January 07, 2017, 10:20:01 AM
Ed. I am sorry but I can find no identifying label on the alternator. In all honesty I was glad to find one in Cuba. It was supplied by a friend of a friend of a guy that worked at Marina Hemingway so its origin must remain unquestionable. I researched the Internet to confirm the wiring layout and the attached is what I used as it is identical. Maybe you can identify it from the picture.
#12
Thank you. You have confirmed my suspicions. I have recently helped a friend re-tab her Morgan 38 which was a other reason for my suspicions. I cannot see any tab failure in my case but will investigate further and reinforce where I can. The V berth bulkhead could be felt moving within the inner liner slot just beside the cabin door below the port side deck, though this movement was microscopic (less than 0.5mm, just peceptible when touching both surfaces but definitely audibly noticeable) Ebb Tide has become home so I have plenty of time to do a thorough job rather than what can be achieve in a weekend. Thank you once again. Steve.
#13
Yes Please.
How much are you selling it for??
#14
I have recently experienced some serious bad weather. 20ft swells and 38knt. winds crossing from Havana to Galviston. One concern I had was a considerable amount of groaning between the bulkheads and the boat hull. It sounded as though the bulkheads were loose in the moulding groove inside the boat. Several reports I have read about the noise inside sailboats lead me to believe this is not uncommon. Are the bulkheads supposed to be loose or has the bonding between the two components finally give up the ghost, (1982 367 cutter) in which case can anyone recommend a suitable jointing compound. I was considering the west system epoxy and a high adhesive filler compound?? However if they should be loose is there a lubricant I should apply to reduce the friction ?
#15
Pearson 365/367 Mechanic Shop / Water pump pully.
December 08, 2016, 02:08:37 PM
Having taken two weeks to motor sail the ICW from Kemah Texas to New Orleans, down the Mississippi across the bay to Key West and on to Havana I needed to purchase a new alternator. With the belt at the correct tension the water pump pully decided enough was enough and disintegrated.
I have a 1982 367 cutter named Ebb Tide and she has a Universal (Westerbeke) 5444 (44hp) Diesel. When trying to replace said pully the dealer needs to know if it's a type 'A' or 'B'. I cannot find any identification plate anywhere - has anyone any ideas ??? please.