Pearson 365 and 367

I have a Universal Diesel 5444, with a Hurth zf 12m transmission in my 367. I have found broken springs in my damper plate, and need to replace it, but I can't find any markings. Does anyone know what size/brand was used, and what I can replace it with. Thanks for any assistance.

Vince

Did Pearson make a 36 foot cutter after 1982? I can't find any after the 367

Good day everyone. I was looking to see if anyone has had a phrf assigned to their 367. In my research it keep seeing them called a Pearson 36 Cutter after hull #51. Did Pearson make a 36 Cutter after the 367? I can find any listing for one, and the P367 was called a 36 Cutter at times.I have #33, and didn't believe they were produced after 1982 under any name.
Thanks for any help.

Vince

I pull my mast every year, and use a boot kit from West Marine. I have reused the same boot 4 seasons now, and it still looks good. We cover it with a piece of material, left over from the sail covers, just for looks. I discovered about a square foot of rotten deck core aft of the mast, that needed repairing.

When I bought my boat the pump that pumps out the shower didn't work, and the hose was left to drain into the bilge. I bought a little bilge pump mounted in a small square box. As the water drains from the shower, into the box, the float starts the pump, and it is discharged from the through hull just aft the shower. This is separate from the sink.

Buck Algonquin is where I purchased my new hose. It is a special hose, and you can see how much heavier it is, than normal hose. They only sell it by the foot, so you will have a spare. I had no idea how old mine was, and wanted it replaced. When removed I discovered that the previous owner had used cheap hose. It is a pain to change but worth the piece of mind.

  The engine in my boat is a 5444, and it has this on the engine. The M50 dealt with some of the overheating problems of the earlier engine. They came with a larger heat exchanger, and a larger cam in the sea water cooling pump. Mine already had the larger heat exchanger, so I installed the larger cam in the Oberdorfer pump. This might help you identify the engine.
  My engine was totally worn out, so I removed, and rebuilt it. When I did this I didn't notice any build up of oil, and this boat had little maintenance done in the years before I purchased her. I also painted the area under the engine a light grey, before reinstalling, to make oil leaks more visible, and to date have not noticed anything. This may indicate that yours is a long term build up, but a container to catch any drippings would let you know for sure.
  My engine doesn't have an air filter, and I considered installing one, but decided against it. According to the information I could find the builders decided that the engine compartment was dust free enough not to need a filter. It also mentioned that, if you install a filter, be careful not to limit the air flow. If the filter has a large surface, and is checked regularly, it shouldn't be a problem.
  Hopefully this will give you a little more information to help with your decisions.

Vince

I installed a new stove last year, and it  has worked great. It was a Dickinson Marine Mediterranean 3-Burner Propane Gas Stove With Broiler. The stove sets out about an inch further, because of the clearances required, but it looks great. These are made in Canada, but I see them on the Defender marine site.

That is one job I haven't been blessed with, thankfully, but I did get rid of the plastic opening ports. My new one through bolted, so I put a dam around the openings, made from the curled edge of plastic j trim, and filled the void with epoxy. The windows now have a solid structure to be bolted to. When there is a void through bolting tends to draw the sides together, and I didn't like the way it twisted things.

  I agree the Blue Sea panels are good, I installed a small one. I also found that, Great Lakes Skipper, has a variety of panels. These seem to be leftovers from boat manufacturers mainly, but you can only get what is there. I even saw a Pearson panel there last year. Just another place to find boat parts, I have purchased opening ports, electrical equipment, pin strips, etc, and have had good luck.

  Mine has the wooden floor also, and appears to be fine. I am a heavy person, and haven't noticed any deflection. I, however, had to cut away a little of the floor beam just forward of the engine, as the shaft touched it. I rebuilt my V-drive, and while installing it noticed the aft port mount wasn't fastened to the hull. The tabbing had not been properly wrapped under the mount, when the vessel was constructed, allowing that corner to drop almost 1/4 of an inch. I started to install it anyway, but I just couldn't leave it, knowing it wasn't right. Well that started the ball rolling. My engine was now to far to port, and low, so I realigned it all, only to have the shaft hit. It was then that I enlarged the cut out made by the manufacturer. I had decided that I could install a piece of angle iron, at the forward edge of the beam, if it appeared weakened. It's not an easy chance to work, but the angle iron may be an option for you.
  Take care, and good luck.

  Thanks for the info.
Dale,

Two years ago I had some friends help tune the mast, so last year, after stepping the mast, I sent all away. They were well meaning, but to many cooks. I managed to get the mast tuned amidship, and with a slight aft rake, but my headstay was tighter than you suggest. I had it set up, but as I said some others, that had returned for launching, thought it loose. I will have to check this carefully this year.
  As for the extrusion, it is the headstay. This Stearns unit uses a solid extrusion, instead of the wire, or rod. It is old, but with the new bearings it should be good. These units come with tapered, or cylinderical bearings at each end, but of course I had an odd ball. When switching from one type, to the other, they apparently made some with different types at either end. It was because of this that I had to get different bearings to supplement the rebuild kit.
  I think I will forget the winch, as you said, and if I can't get it working properly, use the money towards a new unit. LOL, another expense not anticipated. I once started a spread sheet to track the cost of refitting this boat, but after entering just three receipts, I shred all my records. You can't put a price on the joy she gives me. This is how she named herself, lots of fun, and lots of work, sort of a " Mixed Blessing ".
   
Vince

I have a Stearns Twinstay furling system on my 1982 P367. The system had become hard to furl, the bearings were shot, and I rebuilt it with all new bearings, but last year it was still a struggle to furl. I will check the bearing movement, when the snow lets me, but I don't expect to find a problem. The folks that were helping me step my mast were concerned about the lack of threads showing inside the aft stay turnbuckle, and put a couple more turns on it. I don't have a gauge big enough for this stay, and  can't check it.
Here are the questions: Would the aft stay tension, only changed a little, cause enough strain to make the furler work very hard?
                                 Is there an easy way to check the tension?
                                 How hard should it be to furl the headsail? I am quite able, and can do it, but it is almost impossible for smaller crew. I have even considered installing a winch.
Thanks for any help.

Vince

My name is Vincent Shepherd. I have a 1982 Pearson 367, Hull #33. She renamed herself one day when I was thinking of all the fun she had been, and the work she was causing. She is " Mixed Blessing " of Grand Manan, New Brunswick, Canada.

I have a couple pics of the new dipstick. If you would like to see them contact me, and I will email them. I can now reach it by opening the engine compartment in the cabin.