Pearson 365 and 367

Here is what I did and my reasonings when I had to re-power my 365.

1). At the time I was repowering I thought I would go with an engine driven refrigeration compressor in addition to my 120 amp alternator. That said it was suggested to me and I agreed that an engine slightly larger than the W40 would be better. The next size engine by Westerbeke is the 55C Four. At first look the engine appeared to be perfect. Physical dimensions are almost identical to the older W40/4-107. Considering that at the shaft it would probably only put out 50 hp. coupled w/ a great price on a new engine it didn't seem a bad choice. I got the hurth transmission that was a 1: 1 ratio.
2). The things I didn't check(it was my first re-power) were: 1. the torque: the V-drive I think is rated for 120 or 150 ft/lbs. I believe the 55C Four is rated at 115 or 125 ft/lbs(it has been over a yr since I re-powered), either way I lucked out and was under the max torque allowed for the v-drive. 2. the exhaust: the exhaust hose for the new engine needed to be 4" vice the 1 1/2" to 2" of the older engine.That meant larger hose, larger exhaust pot, and a huge transom fitting. 3. I didn't measure from the drive shaft to the bottom of the oil pan. This was a CRITICAL dimension and no matter what I did I couldn't get the shaft to line up with the transmission coupling. This required that I completely tear out the old engine bed and redesign it from the ground up.
3). All that said I do really like my new eng and tranny but I would have saved my self a HUGE AMOUNT of work and stress had I just repowered w/ a W40. I hope this helps, feel free to contact me if you have any questions.
Chris

Ed,

I don't have alot to add but I will tell you what I used on my 365 when I re-wired her in '06.

I went w/ a 120 amp externally regulated alternator and a Link 2000R monitor/external regulator. The Link 2000 is a stand alone battery monitor/and inverter/charger controller. The 2000R is the same monitor controller w/ the addition of an external regulator. The Link controls the regulator. The regulator is a 3 stage regulator that also has and "equalizer" function. The amount of amperage put out by the regulator was based on the status of the batteries as determined by the monitor.

The system has worked flawlessly until just a few weeks ago when lightening hit near my boat and damaged the external regulator portion of the system.  I DO NOT RECOMMEND this system to you as Xantrex no longer supports this product, which means they will not repair it for a fee, provide you with the schematics, or anything else.

I really liked how the system worked together and maintained the batteries. It pretty much handled eveything but adding water to the batteries. I will be looking for another system.

Hope this helps and doesn't insult,

Chris

Hey Ed,
When I installed a dual Racor fuel filter I also installed an Algae-X. I am unsure how it works exactly but I can tell you this, while the fuel in the tank is definitely dirty, I have never experienced the "snotty" fuel that I have seen on other boats w/o Algae-X.
I believe the "snotty" fuel is due to bacteria/algae(?) that live at the fuel/water interface. My basic understanding is it uses magnets(?) that "break down" the bacteria/algae in a way that the engine can then safely burn or it can be filtered more readily.(?)

I guess its like praying, who knows if really works or not.
Chris

Ed,
I'm pretty sure I have the pics of the mast step, but I didn't take any photos of the strong back or the area where the transom started to cave in.(don't ask me why)

I'll be home next week and if you want I can crawl in and take the photos of the repair and the area that was caving in.
As to the relationship with the mast step, there wasn't. Prior to repairing the mast step the boat had an old "Cruising Design" roller furler and the rig suffered from what can only be described as "mast pumping" in higher wind speeds.(>18 kn) Additionally the rig was, to my shame, somewhat "loose". Wasn't comfortable with tightening it too much with the corrosion at the step.

After the mast step replacement I installed a Harken roller furler and traveler. After re-tuning the rig with a slight aft rake to the mast the boat sailed great. I left for Iraq and 8 months later when I got home, I was shown where the transom was "bending" in at the hull/deck joint.

Near as I can tell from looking at the ketch rigged variants, Pearson simply didn't install the chain dual chainplates in the pt/stbd lockers and just put one center mass on the transom w/o any reinforcement. The backing plate was justy large fender washers.

Hope this helps.
Let me know about the photos.
Chris

Hi,
Don't know about removing the mizzen but I own a 1980 sloop 365. The biggest concern is the transom. 6 months after I pulled the mast to replace the step the transom started to cave in. The transom is very thin, 3/8" was the maximum thickness I found. Had to have a strong back glassed in to prevent further distortion.
Chris